dutchzcarguy

Petroleum jelly on the dash?? tell us about that... i never heard of it.. i never heard a good (read: cheap!) solution for a cracking or cracked dash.. Mine (240) has a cracked dash with a cracked dashcover on it ! Hahaha... 🤣 that's what you get after 51 years.. Although my 280zx that was all it's time in the Dutch weather and warm garage.. it's dash is pristine! (after 43 years)

If the coolant does not come out after removing the bolt.. hit it with a ice pic!!... or something 😉 (often lot of dirt in there..)

I think it's more of a dent.. you can take that out with a small pulling hammer and a (self made sharp 180 degrees chisel hooking into it). The metall looks like it's chromed when you zoom in.. but it should be stainless all the way... i think?? So after pulling the little dent you should be able to clean it up easely with some steel wool 000 (very fine) and then some polish.

Isn't that a coolant outlet bolt? just take out that bolt and put some liquid sealant on the threads and put it back in a cleaned threaded hole.. easy.. (Don't know if this is the coolant outlet but these blocks have one maybe someone had a leak there and decided to drill it out and but a bolt in it.. ) Let us know what it was.. (I think normally the coolant outlet bolt to drain the engine is bigger than the one on the pic.)

Nicely done! I wish i could play the guitar like that! wow!

18 years! (Is that "awhile?) Re-tap to 1 size bigger if possible (metric prefered as most is metric) or recoil it. Or if there is enough dept, make the hole deeper and extent the thread and use a longer bolt! 🙂 If the bolt is M5 you use a drill 0,8 times 5 = 4,0 mm ( M6 is 6 x 0,8 =4,8 or 4,5 if you don't have 4,8mm) You could weld it shut and re-drill/tap but that's a specialist's work.. I would use a good recoil.

It should be called BVA-"veiling" but we dutchies like a bit of english to do popular! "popyjoopies" 😉 BVA auctions is a Dutch "veiling"site. I knew only 1 car that had that option (sunroof) .. it had 2 glass pieces but no lighting at all. just a satin black cover (flat) for as far i can remember.. i think that is a good solution for you.. and if you find a original lighting armature you can always go back.. but i don't think you find that any time soon. 😢 Datsun 280Z Sport Coupé 169pk 1976, 88-YD-81 - BVA Auctions - online veilingen (bva-auctions.com)

It's for sale at the moment.... with lots of miles on it..

It seems to have 2 bulbs in it...

I got something for ya! 😉

I would use some heat isolating tape wrapped around the exhaust manifold! If you have a dirty old inlet N36 i would file that one to look how deep the water or air cavity is.. NICE work! I like that exhaust manifold but i hear they often ( the cheap ones?) leak between the manifold and head.. This one looks made of better material. nice fat contact plate.. Your doing well!

In a Ghostlike voice: I can see you! in the bumperrrr... On your socks! Btw. the rpm's keeping hanging to high .. i got that too.. a bit.. i think the set of carbs (mine) need a restore or good cleaning at least.. it's 15 years ago i did this for the last time.. so.... Nice 280z you got there! I think i need such a spoiler/front lip too.. At 210 on the german highway the car wants to take off a bit hahaha.. yeah kilometers.. not miles!

Lube help for Bowdencable..

Don't know but there should different diameter lubricating thingy's be.. Those steel U-form things you can take out and place it onto the cable. Lube with teflon or ptfe - oil. And close the lid. leave the thing on the hole in the cable. (maybe use some super glue to let it stick on the right spot. 🙂 Just use a little drop haha otherwise you glue the cable stuck!

But make sure the end of the cable is a clean cut otherwise you'll never be able to get it back in... There are things for it to put on the outer lining, you have to make a little hole in the plastic, then put a lube-thing (PIC!) over it and then you can lube the inner cable without taking it out..

I made a account to follow the 300zx tt's and i'm not gonna do anything and leave the site.. interesting what's gonna happen.... (I had an offer on mine and was much more than i paid for it so i looked at BAT and there they are even (a lot) more.. I'm in no hurry to sell, it was 15 when i bought it and now it's 30! years old! And never restored and almost as new.. 🙂 )

JEP! this morning i got a mail to strengthen my password..pfff...

Does not matter if you give full throttle, only in our minds it helps haha.. i often doe it myself at cold start.. Just pull the choke completely when very cold weather..

The place were the outer lining of the cable is connected is maybe lose at the choke-knob in your mid-console?

When i take a good look on that tip.. it closes something.. as it has a rounded scoring on it.. i would think it's out of a solonoid..

Take care for the edge of the hole as this will rust, use a good anti-rust paint in there.. Btw.. did you glue the rubber also (on the top edge .. inside) ? I once did some new rubber on my 240z bumper and they looked a bit wobbly, still do a bit.. next time i use a black rubber sort of glass/windscreen glue to let them sit snug to the chrome.. also protects against water in between that.. unfortunately it made a rusty spot now on my right side rear bumper part..sigh... My painter (your paintershop to?) has 2 sorts of black rubber glue-ie stuff.. one hardens to rubber and one stays a bit sticky.. I would use the last one.. easy to correct.

Yeah.. and why were those stupid weights on the list? because they had to make them anyway! The question that comes up... HOW MANY fairlady's were driven with those (To me.. damn ugly... ) things on? 😮

If we take a look at the Original.... the fairlady in Japan... it has no overriders... it's a USA thing.. regulations rules rules.... rules... But hey... some like those blinds on the rear window, others prefer modern wheels on a classic.. everyone his/her thing.. 👍

I think i've seen more than 3-4 different "bumperettes" on usa cars.. personally i love the "without those bumperettes" look.. In Europe and Japan they don't have those extra "weights" on.. and.. i don't think it would matter when in a collision.. haha.. i left them off and sold them! 😉 Oh .. the holes for the bolts? (from where the bumperettes would sit.) there are original rubber thingy's for that!

You have to watch out you don't cross thread it.. first take of the line and screw the line into the brakecylinder then carfully make the bend and install the line. With a bit care you manage to make that corner.. 🙂 Always look for the R and L on the em.brake hook.. the bleed nipple should always be at the top.. otherwise you can't bleed them well. (i can't really tell from your pic that it's in the right way installed..)