dutchzcarguy

Nope... not a phillips.. it's a JIS headscrew, many screws get damaged by working with a phillips head screwdriver! It's JIS! google for some perfect fitting screwdriver. Lots of screws in a s30 are JIS.

A picture tells a thousand words.. All i can say now is.. it will be a metric bolt..? Get yourself a service manual!! It's in there somewere... i guess.

You mean: GET the engine etc.etc? Yes you could check if the engine runs by spaying some starterfluid into the air inlet, if it has ignition working it should fire up Yes.. and no.. 🙃 The resistance is low, very low, you can test a injector with a full 9 volt (those small battery's) battery.. NEVER EVER test it with a big battery or the car battery because you WILL fry the thing! Injectors are electronically regulated and the current is a very short puls that normally wouldn't kill the injector copper windings.. BUT.. As John (Yarb) sayd: first learn a lot about the way it works in theory.. And then slowly start to make a logical list of things to test.. And remember there are many things that can and will go wrong with these old "computer" controlled injection systems.

Another idea would be: put both inner parts of both valves in the one solution, you got 2 fly's in one hit! (Dutch saying..) 🤠

The internal part with the rubber parts is a perfect test .. put it in washing detergent and let it soak a few days (heat it up sometimes to max 60 C. you get new rings.. (only if the rings are not damaged ofcourse)

Yeah, better safe then sorry.. You let us know how it went, i always leave it in the solution for a few days and put new hot water and "detergent"(washing powder) on it and hot water.. (not higher than 50-60 degrees Celcius!) (We have forgotten herr Fahrenheit..hahaha) You can repeat the proces a few times. Very hard parts can take a week or 2.. but i always got them soft again.. I must say parts from very hot area's are the toughest to get soft.. I also remember some rubber rings out of a pinball machine, they were so bad, they had lots of little holes in them when you stretched them, after a good soak there was not a single hole in them it rejuvanated completely! They were white rubbers from the flippers and a lot of dirt came off. they where whiter and looked like new! Enough talk about rubbers! 😏

I think it came here to europe as a technician at Datsun/nissan center ordered the wrong loom and it stayed in Germany or so for a long long time.. These days, if the loom is in great chape it could be a very expensive loom! (You should investigate more in direction of Japanese JDM carpart guys..)

Hahaha.. Funny.. Washing powder=That white powder you use to wash chothing.. For softening rubber we specific use "BIOTEX green" But that's a very local brand name, that's why i didn't mention that.. And.. yes heat is a big help but i always better take it easy with just a few times new hot water on it and that's okay.. you can put it on a stove and heat it but be carful not to ruine it.. Looks like in Denmark they also know this brand... On another note: I worked years in security system services and the fire-security system of the biotex factory was one of the big systems i serviced!

Interesting.. i got a few myself and yup.. there is one that's leaking when i put the hose in a sertain wrong position.. What the brand is, i don't know, came long ago with the compressor.. I like to hear which are the better ones.. I hear them leak in pretty much every garage i come.. very annoying!!! 🙉 pssssss.... psssssss.... 😠

Eh.. I have had very good results with symply putting the rubber parts in a lot of washing powder and hot water.. after a few days, the water gets very black and i repeat it ones or even twice.. THEY STAY very plyable! I got a old inlet pipe of a 280zx fueltank and it was very hard. I put it in a mix of water and some extra strong washingpowder and after years still soft. works also on window rubber on the botttom of your doorwindows! And MAN they where VERY hard! (It took a few weeks but it went a lot softer.)

If you clean the crack really well (with a small grinder) than you can simply solder the crack and it will be good to use again.

Yeah.. i got a 2/71 and same switch, only i got it flattened by my right knee 😠 (as i have endless legs... 😉 ) Now it does not function any longer.. something is wrong inside so, i put a drop of speed glue on it that no one can switch it on or do something with it as it is the 8-9 wire switch type and i got no reserve for it and .. yes i could try to repair it but.it's right down.. very far down the list of things to do! 🙈 And Florian, Is that wiring-loom from a 240z euro or US? You placed nice pictures but no explanations.. Also you could look on a fiche of the 240z/s30 what a 24024-E8200 is? I GOT those fiches plenty but no reader anymore.. 😠

Yes.. do you make these fenders for the s30 with the "molds" (die/matrix?) of the older "black dragon" firm?

Ein mann mit wenig worten? (a man with few words?) Is that a 240z US wiring loom dash? If the flasher switch has about 8-9 wires it is.. I think someone had a broken switch in the us car and got himself a new one and then discovered that there was a much different switch needed but installed the switch anyway just to fill the hole in the dash! I don't think they have switched the complete loom for a euro one.

Your car is 50 years old now.. there could be changed a lot in that time. It's totally possible that it has a euro wiring loom now.. pictures of the cables would explain a lot.. Does your car have the euro or the US rear lights? Euro has more wires as it has different lights for brake and indicator lamps. Few years ago there was a good white car for sale not very far from my location here in Province Limburg.. and it had a LOT of new parts in it and was a white car, the owner told me later on that it went to Germany that's why i asked! 🙂 Picture of the car would be nice!

And.. was it connected to something? Someone changed the wiringloom to euro? By the way.. Florian, is your car White and you bought it from a guy named Sjors, here in Limburg(province)?

Ofcourse you mean: i took the Right switch out of the US car... Yep.. the euro/Japan switch has just a few wires.. 3-4.. and the US has much more.. this is because the US car uses the brake lights also for direction/indicators.. and hazard. this makes it complicated. In the euro version the hazard only needs to send the signal to the orange flasher/direction indicators. No need to say they are not interchangeable.. The French have the euro switch for as far i know.. they often have a rear light that is red on top and orange on the lower part.. NO white reverse lights on them.. (i have a set in stock.. very rare.)

SORRY for the late reaction but my internet provider was being stupid again... AAARRGGHH... I tested for free some days tv via internet and decided it's no good.. so i told them to stop it and... they stopped the complete internet connection! ( They have the IQ of a BRICK! 🥵) It's not fun to have no internet for a week! Especially when your sick and on your own..... 😒 To answer your question.. i had the orig. seals but to be sure it is water tight (and fumes tight) i used some of the window sealer that stays soft. If i ever have to remove them they come off easy and the soft rubber can be scraped off easely. But i believe you have already finished the job.

Maybe something for you... How to wire an electric fan with an AC trinary switch - Bing video

I used some pliable rubber kit that's also used when you put glass into the rubber seals and into your window. There a 2 types used (when installing windows), one does get hard and the other stays pliable, this last type you can use between the cars metall opening and the rubber! 🙂

Yup.. can't make a pic upload either overhere..

I replace them with a single wire just to pull the new cable back in later.. easy! (good tip?) 😉

Reminds me of the time that a german firm installed my front fireblade tire in the wrong direction! (Yeah.. he said.. happens once in a 100 times..) The Honda fireblade drives like #^$% when the tire direction is wrong on the rim! I didn't know it made that kind of difference! Something like that is the case with your engine.. we are people we make mistakes.. (although i didn't make any mistake this last year!... why? i didn't do anything! 😒 )

As i'm "in the process" of installing the engine back in my 280zx (now for 2 years or so.. i'm to ill to do something..) I have done a little investigation if my still very good working injection system would come to it's end.. I've seen some pricing and i was looking at around 3-3,500 euro/pounds/dollar? i think? But they are just a phonecall or mail away.. Send them a short list of what you got and what you want and they make you an offer i guess. (But i would get me some carbs if money is the problem, nice sound and no computers needed!) (Also as my engine has low miles i don't need new injectors.. don't know if those 3500€ was with or without..)

Don't forget to look at the inside of the outer beams (between the wheels..) that should be the place to lift your car.. not the inner beams! (use a endoscope, sometimes the lower part of the inner plate in the beam is completely gone, and it makes the changing a wheel with a normal jack a desaster.) Take a look in the servicemanuals.. It's gonna be a nice car!!