Freez74

That's a cool setup!

Hi Amar, That is a very blurry picture, but it appears to be fairly flat. The rubber I got is somewhat L-shaped to press against the window. I can't really tell, but the vintage rubber listing indicates it is intended for this application.

There must be some other type of rubber that would be suitable for this. $200 is a lot of money for two strips of rubber.

Wow. I'm glad I bought mine when I did. It's really not that hard to install, but time-consuming.

My wipers worked erratically, then stopped completely. For a while, I was able to get them to work by slamming the hood, or rapping on the hood latch. I assumed the motor was bad, and started to research the Honda wiper motor conversion. I decided to remove the old motor and take a look before I ordered anything. After studying the cryptic wiring diagrams, I decided to try and bypass the relay mounted on the wiper motor and go straight to the windings. When I did this, the motor ran very reliably in both the low and high speeds. I took the cover off the relay, cleaned all the contacts, and it worked fine! I reinstalled the motor on the car, and it works better than ever. So, cleaning this relay may solve a similar problem, and avoid a motor conversion.

I bought some of those last year also, I wonder why they don't show in the listing?

Mine looks rusty from what I can see of it, but it doesn't seem to have penetrated the cowl yet. Just curious what the proper access procedure is, doesn't look easy. If your air conditioning system does not need outside air, I suppose you could just put a plate over that hole and seal it up. But, then where would the vent selector in the center dash panel get air?

I'm not familiar with the A/C unit, but how did you get that chimney out?

They were totally seized and wouldn't move at all when I got the car. I took the motor and all the linkage out to find that problem. I soaked the spindles in ATF for weeks, and they finally moved. I worked them back and forth till they worked smoothly. I put a drop of oil on them now and then so they won't get stuck again. So, I think it's just a weak motor, high speed is barely faster than low.

The wiper arms were not installed when I got the car, they were tossed in the back. When I decided to put them on, I looked them over and they appeared to be identical. After reading this post, I decided to check the numbers and sure enough, I had them reversed. However, I decided to leave them this way because I installed 16 inch blades instead of 18 because my wiper motor is so weak. Having the slightly longer arm on the driver side gives a bit better vertical sweep with the shorter blade. When parked they look correct to me. But, now I know the difference!

That's good information, I read through it all. I guess I'll just wait and see what becomes of this. Thanks!

I also purchased of these 550-8040 pumps to have on hand as a spare, as I have no idea how long my original Nikki pump may last. After reading this post, I got the GMB pump out of the box and tested the suction. I pushed the lever up against a wall with my finger over the inlet pipe, and very little suction occurred! I don't know if it would even be able to suck fuel out of the tank. Should I just save this pump for parts and buy one of the stamped dome-top pumps for a spare? Do they work any better?

I had no idea the wiper arms were different. I have one marked LD87L and one marked LA87R.

I like it, how does it run?

Thanks! I've been looking for something like that.

Should work fine, where did you get the fuel tubing?

I would like to know also.

I gently blew some compressed air into the hatch lock opening, and sure enough, I saw the little keyhole cover flopping around. So it's there, but the spring is broken, as Captain said. The rekey kit looks interesting, I had no idea those were available. It does look like a chore to do those door locks. If I cant get this hatch lock to work, I think I'll try to buy another one, since the cover is broken and would let water in. I would have to get a hatch lock keyed to my door locks. I'm kind of used to having to carry two keys for one car, because I also have old GM cars, and that was typical of them. I would definitely not want three keys for one car! Thanks guys.

Thanks for the picture! One thing I would like to know about the hatch lock, is it supposed to have a little trap door to cover the key slot? Mine does not, it's just an open hole to stick the key in. Maybe water has gotten in there and corroded the lock. I sprayed some WD40 in it yesterday, but it still doesn't work.

The hatch is currently unlocked, and the key is horizontal. With the hatch fully closed, no amount of wiggling or jiggling the key will allow the key slot to turn vertical. The key DOES work the glove box lock! (Thanks, Captain, I didn't even know there was a lock on that.) This key must be original, it is very worn, has a faint "N" on it, and has an oval head. So it seems the ignition lock was replaced, and has a different key. The other key should work everything else, but won't lock the hatch. So, I'm going to take that lock out and see what I can do with it. I just wanted to make sure I had the right idea before doing that. Thanks to everyone!

I would like to have only one key also, but I mainly want to get the hatch lock working for now. I don't know how to tell if the lock is broken, or if it takes yet another key. I took both of the Nissan keys to ace hardware and had them copied. The copies work fine in the doors and ignition, but still not the hatch. I guess I'll have to take the hatch lock out and take it to a locksmith.

My 260 came to me with two keys, one fits the ignition, and the other fits the doors. However, neither key will lock the hatch. I read in the owners manual that these cars are supposed to use the same key for all locks. I can understand someone in the past may have changed the ignition lock, but why would the door key not operate the hatch? I would like to get the hatch lock functional. The door key fits in the hatch lock, but will not turn. Any advice?

Why would someone leave those cars outside to rot? What's the story?

That's odd, I didn't have that problem. I don't even have door panels on the inside, and the windows work fine. Maybe you need to adjust your tracks or replace the window channels.

Glad I could help! I hope the stapler works, if not, the 1mm wire does well, just time consuming to push through all those little holes. I was very pleased with the way sweeps worked and fit, with a slightly fuzzy side against the glass. Windows roll up and down well, with the rubber in contact with the glass. You do have to trim the length of the sweep a little, so you have to fit it up to the door and mark the trim strip where to cut it. I also cut an angle into the rubber at the front of the door, seemed to fit better that way.