Mark Maras

@siteunseen I've been reading some 2-3 year old history of Jalex"s gremlin. A couple of years ago he reported trouble with #4 cylinder along with the loading up the plugs at hot idle. Same problems then and now. The compression in all cylinders was between 180-185. That rules out a few possibilities. I'm pretty sure Jalex's hot cam is contributing to the idle problems but it should run better than it is. Anyone out there have any street experience with Jalex's cam? @jalexquijano Have you reset the float levels yet?

Rusty mess? That would qualify as rust free on Craig's List. Actually it looks pretty good to me.

You're looking at the wrong end. picture, Dr. of Ears, Nose and Throat NOT Dr. of Proctology. Get back under the hood where the problem is. If you have doubts about the fuel pump?s, do a pressure and volume test and then get back to the floats. Don't keep buying new pumps.

That one would be a good rotisserie project. It may be too far gone for anything less.

IGNORE the fuel filter. The fuel level is fine. Trust me. I've seen lots of them this way, including mine, which ran fine half full for decades. IGNORE the backfiring and sputtering. Until the floats are confirmed to be set properly, set your nozzles back to 2 1/2 turns down. RESIST the temptation to fine tune with the mixture screws until the floats are set. FOCUS on getting the float level 1/16" below the nozzle tops at 2 1/2 turns down. You can't compensate for a wrong float setting with the mixture screws. It doesn't work. If the fuel level is wrong, it won't be at the needle idle stage and will continue to be off throughout all RPMs.

Nope. I'm not surprised. Try shining a light down the nozzle and try to determine how far down the fuel is. You could also try using the small tube from an aerosol can like WD-40 and try using it like a dipstick to determine the depth. One way or another the distance from the float to the lid has got to be reduced.

IMO there's too many variables associated with the float chamber to assume that a measurement is going to get a float level dead on correct. David summed it up. "In the end, the fuel level at the nozzle (2 1/2 turns) is the only thing that matters so why not check the level where it matters and forget the other dubious (grey area) methods." I'm going to repeat the caution used when adjusting choke cables. Be sure when the choke lever is off, both nozzles are all the way up. 1 mm difference in nozzle height (caused by an "it's close enough" choke cable adjustment) is the same as 1 full turn of a mixture adjustment screw.

Just eyeball the 1/16". You'll have the fuel level closer than using the 9/16" grey area setting.

That's correct.

If crap is that grey area I referred to, then yes. There are many variables in the floats, some that come to mind are, are all floats the same after forty five years, the differences in needle valves, wear in the float pivots etc. Just bend the tab a little, remove a little fuel from the bowl, reassemble the carb, fire it up, shut it down (choke off), remove domes and pistons, check fuel level in nozzles, if it needs adjusted, just bend the tab a little bit, etc.

Low is just a guess. take a look at the fuel height in the nozzles. That will tell you which way the fuel level needs to go.

Ignore your mechanic. He couldn't get it right. When you get the carbs set and the engine is running good, he'll be asking you questions about tuning. Turn the mixture knobs until the nozzles are at the top. Then turn them both 2 1/2 turns down. Start the car, use the choke if you have to BUT be sure the choke is off before checking the fuel level in the nozzles. The choke physically pulls the nozzles down. let the engine run for a minute and pull the domes and pistons. The fuel level should be 1 /16" BELOW the nozzle tops. If it needs adjusting, you could try a thicker (5/8") or thinner (1/2") gauge (depending on which way it needs to go) or just bend the tangs a bit and try it again. Either way it's going to be trial and error until the fuel level is correct. A note on choke cables. Be sure the cables are adjusted so the nozzles fully return to the top when the choke is off.

Let me start with a correction. The fuel level is supposed to be 1/16" BELOW the tops of the nozzles. The reference point you're looking for is the smallest hole in the fuel nozzle. The small hole that the jet needle slides into. The optimum setting is to have the fuel level about 1/16" below the tops of the nozzles, with the nozzles at 2 1/2 turns down. The fuel,1/16" below the nozzle tops, will allow the nozzles to be lowered a bit to richen the mixture without the fuel puddling over the nozzle tops. You may need a flashlight to see the reflection of the fuel surface in the nozzles.

It's possible the floats are a bit low.

The typical symptom of a leaking needle valve is over filling the float chamber. A little leakage will influence the performance, a lot of leakage and fuel would be running out of the over flow tubes and or the carb throats. Needle valves are pretty resilient. I don't think that you have a bad one but since you're in doubt and have new ones, put the new ones in. The easiest method of checking the fuel level in the float chamber to see if a needle valve is leaking is by pulling the domes and pistons. The float level in the float chamber is the same as the fuel level in the nozzles. If the needle valve is leaking, the fuel level will probably be over the nozzle top.

Briggs & Stratton engines used an aluminum flywheel key as a "failure mechanism." The keys were often offset after years of use.

I've not tried the 10 turns down but I believe (someone correct me if I'm wrong) the 10 turns down, is read with the float removed. In your last sentence you said you removed the dome. If the float was still installed, the fuel level should have been 1/16" below the nozzle tops at 2 1/2 turns.

A flattened piece of copper tube works great as a back up strip when welding the holes.

Try heating the area around each stud with a heat gun prior to pulling on it.

My first guess is the filter in the banjo fitting. It's the "last chance" filter where the fuel line enters the float bowl. If that's OK, I'd suggest a fuel pump pressure and volume test. Where is the fuel level compared the the nozzle tops and how many turns down are the mixture screws?

Wrong key?

I'd go with blue Loctite. Someone may need to remove the key in the future. Out of curiosity, does the key way look OK?

Wait and see if the new key is any tighter. You may not need it.

If the pump is oriented in the proper direction and the clamps are tight, turn it on and check for leaks. No leaks, fire it up. You'll probably take it for a spin but if it doesn't run well, remember, we still need to verify the fuel height in the nozzles at 2 1/2 turns down. Then we can move on to fine tuning.

Good job. That looks closer to the proper angle. Drive it a bit and let us know how the engine feels, cold and hot. Are the mixture screws set to 2 1/2 turns? In the report be sure to tell us where the fuel levels are in the nozzles.