z_boi

anybody?

Ok, this has happened b4. I drove home. park the car and then it jus doesnt start up when i go out to start it. there fuel and it cranks, but no spark. Last time this happened. i didnt fix it. i was jus tryin to test connections and see if i was getter power to things. then i found water in my fuseble links. I dried it up and replaced one of the wires. then tested again and it had power to the coil. then i started it and it started up. so its happening again. the fuseble link is dry. wires are good. but i dont have power to the coil. wat could it be?

get a tie rod puller. remover the cotter pin and nut from the tie rod that holds it to the steering knucle. Then with the tie rod puller, put tension on the tie rod, take a hammer, and hit the knucle with it a few times, put more tension on the tie rod end, then wack it a few more times, and repeat that till it pops out. thats to remove it. to put it bak, jus simply tighten it till it seats and the nut line up wit the hole for the cotter pin. dont back it off if the pin doesnt go in. either try to tighten it a bit more to make it reach or back it all the way off then tighten it up again till it lines up. Oh yeah! and when u put the tie rod end back onto the rack. make sure u try to get it as close to where it originally was other wise ur alignment is gonna be really screwed up. since ur takin it to get allinged n e how, it doesnt have to be exactly. Hope this helps and not confusing u.

How do i do this conversion. I know i can, but i have no clue where to begin.

Ok, I hang out wit a bunch of 240sx people. I always go to meets with them and well yeah, theres a meet this weekend if anyone wants to go. heres the info: NorCal 240SX Meet norcal240sx.org info Date: 2004 March 28 Time: 2:00 PM - 5:30 PM (end time approx.) Location: Pleasanton Sports & Recreation Park / Parking Lot 2 5800 Parkside Drive Pleasanton, CA Our next meet will be in the East Bay, at Pleasanton Sports & Recreation Park, Parking Lot 2. Parking Lot 3 (adjacent to Parking Lot 2) is expected to be closed, but if it becomes open we may use that lot instead. After entering Parkside Drive, you'll see Sports Park Drive on your right. Enter Sports Park Drive and the first lot will be Parking Lot 2. Please refer to this map of the park. www.norcal240sx.org

yeah, i have a 2.5in str8 pipe. and 6 2 1 header. I will also be portmatching the manifold to the throttle body. but my question is, should i get the AFM? Will that help me becuzz i figure the the stock afm was designed to work with the stock throttlebody. so wouldnt it be a better idea to use the turbo afm? Im jus tryin to figure out weather i should buy the AFM off this guy for 85 buks. Its alreayd been converted to work on an NA.

Suks! my cars all off. hahah Damn that saturn. or wait there was that suv blockin me at first. then the saturn came and took the spot. o well. nice little meet tho. even tho now my car is leakin like crazy.

So, Im planning on doin the 60mm 240sx throttle body conversion. And theres a guys sellin a turbo AFM that has been converted to work on an NA. Hes willin to ship it to me for 85 buks. wat do u guys think? Is it really worth it. I kinda see it this way. With the throttle body upgrade, and the stock AFM, it would seem to me that it wouldnt help much without the Bigger AFM. Any opinions on this? Or does anyone know how to or how easy it is to do this conversion? Or should i Jus buy the one off this guy?

my idle doesnt stay steady, When i start it for the first time, the cold start valve is on at about 1200, then it comes down to about 8 where i want it at, or where it should be. then after it warms up really good and i drive it for a bit, it goes up to about 1000. but I think its running rought becuase i have a leak at my intake manifold. Not sure tho. Should be ok to drive. It drives jus fine but idles ruff.

Damn! Shes running now but i think i have a leak where my intake mani bolts up, she runs really ruff at idle. Drives fine tho, wata ya guys think? would i be ok driving around like that?

i have some chrome wheels that were on my 77. they are 14x6.5 or 7 not sure. and the offset is somewhere around the range of 0 to -5?

im good with 12.

i doubt that they'll look under your hood, and if they do, they'll prolly notice someting. but then again, isnt ur car already exempt? They only way u'll get in trouble if it is exempt is that he'll send u to the state ref.

wat valve are u talkin about. the egr is off. its jus the spacer that goes between the egr valve and the manifold thats stuck. Im lettin it soak in some wd40 rite now, litterally soaking. hopefully it'll help. if not, i'll jus have to cut it. We'll see wat happens tomorro.

jeese, i really hope i can get my car done b4 the weekend. And im kinda thinkin 10am is a little too early.

You can just disconnect the vaccum lines that go from the egr to the manifold. That way the egr never opens. Then jus plug that vaccum line and it should fine. Im tryin to completely remove my egr to make the enginebay look a little less messy. Im either gonna plug the coolant lines or jus bypass the themalvaccum valve.

haha, i only have a pencil torch and tried to heat it up. lols. but yeah guess i'll try to soak it.

i use pb blaster on it. then i hammered a chizzle between the manifold and the spacer but it wont even budge. I was thinkin maybe i'll cut the spacer to try and get it off. I guess ill somehow try to soak it wit sometin and try not to get it into the manifold. hopefully it'll come off.

egr reciculates exhaust gas back into the intake after the mafs so it doesnt affect ur air/fuel readings. The egr opens up at a certain tempurature to lower temperatures in the combustion chambers to keep the nox level low. It is for emissions and the egr on our cars dont have any electronics hooked up to it so the computer doesnt work with it. It works on vaccum. and thats wat the thermalvaccum valve is for. at a certain temperature. it opens up and allows vaccum to the egr and opens it up. Wont be a problem to remove it and plug it up. Because its jus a hole in the manifold w/o the egr there. When u push up on the diaphram on the egr, it opens the valve so that exhaust gas gets thru to the manifold, thats wat causes it to want to die out.

Ok, I tried to take off the egr on my 77 280z(stock efi) and the 2 bolts holding it snapped. Now i Have The spacer that sits between the egr and the manifold is stuck on there. I tried to pry it off with no luck. Any suggestions anyone? If the bolts were fine i'd jus cap it off from there but the bolts are pretty rusted and need to come off. I need to get it off so that i can cap it. Its either that or i get the manifold cut and rewelded to get rid of the egr.

I think i need to replace the passenger side of my trans tunnel and both floors. I was wondering if i could cut this out of my parts car (as it has pretty good floors and a good tunnel) to replace my bad floors and tunnel? or should i get new floors? and do the have replace tunnels?

U wont really notice ne power increase from just the fan but u might notice it reving a little more freely. I have a pusher installed that i bought off a friend. I have both cluthc and the pusher. They cool very well. I had it set up to be a puller w/o the clutch fan. but the fan i have was designed to be a pusher, so it didnt make a difference. It probably woulda cooled better than the clutch fan if i had the correct fan. But my current set up is workin verywell. no overheating in traffic. Im also running a 160 degree thermalstat. and have and adjustable thermastat switch on the pusher fan.

Some 240sx guys.

sounds good to me, mind if some my non z friends tag along?