Carl Beck

Great video - it is important that people understand the need to tighten/torque suspension bushings with the weight of the car sitting on the suspension, so the bushing is clamped down at the center of its up/down movement. If nothing else take the car to a shop with a drive on lift - and pay them put it up in the air for you. My only suggestion is - get yourself a good brass hammer, to apply to the end of the wrench - and quite beating on your hands.

From Mr. Uemura’s Story: DEVELOPMENT PROCESS - - Vehicle Durability Tests - - - Heat Resistance and Cold Resistance Tests The heat resistant performance was evaluated at an external temperature of 95ºF (35°C) for the domestic models, and at 104ºF (40°C) for the North American models. The tests were mainly conducted on the heat-resistant chassis dynamometer. However, because the wind flow can be different from the vehicle tests, performance was also evaluated on the test course. Eventually, field tests for this model were done in the United States and Canada. The heat resistance test done on the chassis dynamometer includes many items, such as whether the temperature of the water or oil is normal during high speed operation, whether the engine speed becomes unstable while the engine is idling after high speed operation, and whether the engine can be restarted after the ignition is turned off. If it fails any of these items, heat resistance performance is considered insufficient. We aimed at keeping the engine oil temperature within a specified range even if the car ran continuously for 118 miles (190 km) without an oil cooler. In fact, we had no problems with the engine oil temperature. The differential was also designed to keep the oil temperature in a specified range even after 118 miles (190 km) of continuous driving. However, because it was at the far rear of the floor, the differential did not get sufficient wind even if a baffle plate was used. In the end, it was not able to clear the 118 miles (190 km) continuous driving at a 104ºF (40°C) external temperature. If consumers complained, we were prepared to offer an optional oil cooler for the differential oil, but this problem did not arise. Probably as no one drives a car continuously at such high speeds in the United States, and because temperatures do not go up that high in Europe. DATSUN 240Z Engineering Development https://www.lulu.com/search?adult_audience_rating=00&page=1&pageSize=10&q=Datsun+240Z

It is a sliding cloth or ragtop sunroof - used on some early VW Beetles .. I’ve seen a few on 240Z’s...

SERIES II For Sale at Mecum Auction Kissimmee, FL Jan. 4-15, 2023 A Series II BMW 507 - A Million Dollar Offering? I'll have to attend the auction, just to see one in person. https://www.mecum.com/lots/FL0123-545398/1959-bmw-507-roadster/ FWIW, Carl B.

What do you see? - Fan?... Isn't that a pretty late car needing V-3 kit?

Is the NISSAN Logo - pressed into the acrylic on that one?

Correct - the splash pan's were installed as standard equipment during the 1973 Model Year. (which had all manor of problems with under hood heat effecting the fuel system and carb.s) The 73+ splash pans had "holes" in them were they wrapped about the sides - where the originals did not. As I recall the splash pans were added in order to reduce airflow drawn in by the Fan coming in under the bottom of the radiator and increase the airflow through the radiator. A Seal on the Radiator Core Support was also added for the 73 models and beyond. The first Seals added were bolted on at the Dealerships and later they were added to the manufacturing/assembly lines.

The under tray - aka splash pan - was not standard equipment on the North American 240Z’s. Although a few early cars did arrive with one installed - don’t have any accurate number for how many… However some people ordered them over the DATSUN PARTS Counters and installed them personally . Somewhat like the manual throttles.

TS70-42 8 Oct 1970 Cars with Black Interior Trim HLS30 02830 HLS30 03327 - California Models Cars with Brown or Blue interiors HLS30 03881 HLS30 04364 - California Models

I don't believe that the Top Lid to the Battery Cover was vented (with holes) until much later. While it looks like NISSAN OEM Spark Plug wires were used - the later OEM Replacement Parts for a time came with Red Spark Plug Boots - the originals and later OEM Replacements were all black. May have been mentioned, but as I recall those are the wrong hood bumpers for 01/70

If I recall correctly - - - we had a long Discussion Tread several years ago related to the position of the Valve Stem Hole on the Early vs Late D Hub Caps. I believe Kats proved that the position of the opening on the early D Hub Caps for the valve stem - was either one of two different positions.(both positions were shown on very early Z’s) Meaning you could not tell an early from the later D Hubcaps based on the position of the opening for the valve stem. (may be my memory is bad?)

Was owned by Hung Vu..

I think it is several factors. Lots of clear pictures of the things everyone wants to see. Great looking undercarriage and everything else in very presentable condition. Responsive seller, offering a $25K 240Z, with $50K+ worth of restoration or refresh work already done. That saves the new owner a couple years worth of work and worry not to mention risk. I would say it is a pretty nice condition #3 example, well short of the $90K+ price range for condition #2 on the Hagerty Value Scale. So at $70K it is in the range one should expect…. Still I am surprised to see that many potential buyers that also like the Metallic Brown color - that is not the usual case. Also - from my memory, I don’t believe that Metallic Brown nor any Metallic was Amino Alkyd Enamel - the Metallics were acrylic enamel.

Very interesting video and glad to see an original owner that actually knows a lot about his 240Z. Also glad to see that Mr. David Cash is alive and well. He is #80 on our "Z Car Original Owners Register” from 1999. http://zhome.com/IZCC/ZRegisters/original.htm #1 or #2 Condition? Several Classic, Collectable and Special Interest Price Guides have been published for decades and most of them define what Condition #1 or Condition #2 means. If you look at enough of them over the years they all more or less have the same general definitions of the meaning of the Condition rating numbers. - if not the exact specific definition. Some divide the group broadly into 4 Condition Categories, while others use 6 or more Condition Categories to more specifically define the over-all Condition of the car. Being an old guy, I still like the 6 Condition Categories as defined by the Old Cars Price Guide. http://zhome.com/Buying/OldCarsPriceGuide.htm Of course today we seem to be living in a society that rejects the concept of having words or terms that have any documented and agreed to definitions.

Hi Kats: That would be such an unusual engine swap for a 69 240Z; I wouldn’t have any previous sales to compare it to. It is not unusual to have a far more powerful engine put into a Classic Z Car, but usually that engine with say 350/400HP would cost less than $10K. There are a large number of Buyers that would love 350HP for an additional $10K or more. Just don't know how many would spring for an additional $40K or more for 160HP swap.

I agree, also think that it hurts the seller's creditability when they don't state right up front - "replacement L24". ON the other hand a low VIN 240Z with a lot of expensive and time consuming restoration work already done, most certainly would be a pretty nice weekend driver for C&C's. At $50K-$65K it should be in the market range. $35K for a pretty nice non-numbers matching Series I seems a bargain + $15K for a pretty low VIN 1969 production example. MRM may very well know what he's doing ....

This one surprised me - It is a very nice 240Z and worth the money - IF - it didn't need floorboards replaced. It might not matter at all to the current owner, but when he goes to resell it - buyers might be a lot more picky. Not saying he paid too much - just saying it surprised me that two buyers were willing to go above $26/28K.

The values of Datsun 240Z’s today, like most Classic, Collectible and Special Interest automobiles is perhaps 80+% based on the over-all condition of the car. Past that other factors play a significant role. For any Datsun 240Z offered as a Classic/Collector quality example today, to be worth 6 figures - its overall condition has to justify that. Judged on the only objective standard “as it left the factory”. That doesn’t apply to Restore-Mods and highly modified examples. Their values are perhaps more based on “what would it cost to build it today” as well as “is this exactly what I would build”. Even at that over-all condition plays the major role. A love VIN, 240Z produced in 1969 might add $15K to $25K to the value of the Z, over and above its “current condition” would establish. So forget the VIN for now and judge very critically the car offered on its actual condition - deducting values for every item not “as it left the factory”.

Just an FYI, in case you didn’t see them in the Datsun Showroom at the time: That image and another was printed on one half of a Showroom Poster - each image was about 3w’x2h’. So the total size of the Poster was about 3’ wide by 4’ high. The images were printed head to head, or top to top. The Poster was then folded in half - and hung over a support wire that ran wall to wall across the center of the showroom. There were two or maybe three different Posters - that featured the EAS Rally 240Z’s and the Monte Carlo 240Z's.

You might be disagreeing about two different situations/cases. In Mr. Uemura’s book he tells us why the Datsun 240Z’s were not undercoated at the factory as regular production began, and that the Dealers were advised to undercoat the 240Z's on Delivery. https://www.lulu.com/search?adult_audience_rating=00&page=1&pageSize=10&q=Datsun+240Z By the 1972 model year (and perhaps some time before) Nissan was using more galvanized sheet metal in the floors, firewalls and hood bracing. So you have to be specific about which model years you are talking about when it comes to undercoatings/paint etc. Big Difference between 70/71 and 72/73. 72/73's were undercoated at the factory. To get primer/paint to stick to galvanized sheetmetal, the sheetmetal had to neutralized (cleaned/cleared of zinc hydroxide) in order to get the primers to adhere to the metal. Nonetheless over longer periods of time the primers/paint would start to peel off as the galvanized metal continued to oxidize under it. If you see a lot of 72/73 240Z’s that haven’t already been repainted etc - you will usually see the paint peeling off - on the firewall and front hood braces. When the original primer peels off the metal, it takes the paint with it. So you see bare usually grayed bare metal. When you see the factory applied undercoating peel or flake off exposing bare metal - it is because the primer/paint under the undercoating is peeling off the galvanized metal - not because the undercoating was applied directly to the metal.

HI Mark - First, where is Middelburg? Over-all, from the pictures - Looks like the original engine is missing/changed. That would hurt its value somewhat when jthe car appears to be mostly "stock". The diamond vinyl is aftermarket and not very appealing to most, the door panels and plastic interior panels are heavily dyed..and some look broken. The engine compartment could use a lot of detailing/cleaning.. All that considered - the Asking Price seems very reasonable to me, given that it has been imported, the duties/taxes are paid etc. That alone today might be $8,000.00 USD. If you are in the Netherlands or close by - seems like a good opportunity. In any case you should expect to put several thousands of Euro's/Dollars into it - once you own, drive and fall in love with the 240Z. FWIW, Carl B.

It was an option in Japan, available here in the USA though the Datsun Parts Catalog / Dealer Parts Dept. Could have been installed at the Dealership, usually done by upholstery shops/convertible shops that specialized in Vinyl Tops for cars. Most of them were custom made and installed at the Top Shops.

If it looks gray in pictures - might just be the lighting and angle of the light source etc. That said - if it looks gray or has blueish undertones etc when you see it in person- it isn't factory. Factory Silver in person looks Silver as in that picture. Factory Silver used "Fine" silver metal flakes only. My first 240Z was Silver... got a scratch in the passenger door about 14 months after I picked it up from the Dealer. Spent several months trying to find the right body shop that could match the paint - the fourth shop got it right. Spent months looking very closely at that Silver from the factory. Very hard for shops using completely different types of paint today to blend the correct color - it can be done - if they are willing to shoot enough test panels large enough. Chevy Guys - have the same problem getting Cortez Silver correct as well on Corvettes/Camaro's/Chevelles from the 60's/70's. I had that on my 1970 SS396 El Camino - it is all but identical to the original silver on the 240Z's. Sill if today you look at a hundred pictures of Cortez Silver - only about 1 in 20 looks like the correct shade. Too many of them have gray or blue undertone, or a sand/gold undertone. FWIW Carl