Carl Beck

A small carbon deposit/chunk can get lodged between the valve and valve seat - thus preventing the valve from fully closing.. In the old days, local mechanics would start the car, warm it up, and then mist water vapors into the carb intake while increasing the RPM... They just used a spray bottle... I'm not recommending this - just mention it to show how common a problem it used to be... I still can't believe that given that cars history, and mileage - that anything serious could be causing the problem... Since you already have the intake/exhaust manifolds off - go ahead and pull the engine and put it on an engine stand. Pull the head, clean up the piston tops - and send the head to a good shop to be checked. The E-31's were noted for cracking around the exhaust valves. At the same time you can pull the front cover and pan - clean, detail (repaint the block, bead blast the front cover - and reseal the engine). replace the front and rear main seals, freeze plugs etc. Clean/polish the engine compartment - and reinstall the engine.. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Ron: I like that - "things I used to know" qualifier. So I'll use it as well. AM broadcast radio signals are capable of going around the world as they bounce off the earths upper atmosphere - and are broadcast with various amounts of out put power from the sending unit. In almost every case the longer/larger the antenna the better. (as the lower frequency wave lengths are longer). Depending on the quality/sensitivity of the receiver - and the band separation of the tuner dial - it may be necessary to damp out weak signals, so that the signal seeking radio will stop only on strong signals. FM on the other hand works best with an antenna length of limited length (30 to 32 inches comes to mind - but I wouldn't bet anything on that memory), or one that has a resister built in to filter out high frequency noise. Be that as it may - you are correct - the AM radio's in the Z's have an "antenna trimmer" screw - located just forward of the antenna input on the case. I just looked at two of the one's I have in the house. BTW - did you used to hook your crystal radio set to the steel bed springs of your bed? FWIW, Carl B.

This past weekend a few of us from the Tampa Bay area attended the annual "Roar & Soar" event at the Fantasy Of Flight Museum in Polk City, Florida. If you haven't been to the museum, you owe it to yourself to go. Several WW-II Period War Birds, a Super G- Constellation and older Bi-Planes etc. http://www.fantasyofflight.com/ There is a car show and the Jaguar Club puts on an auto-cross. They seem to run the same course each year, as they keep records of the previous track record for Fastest Time Of Day. It was held by a very professionally prepared, full race, E-Type at 42.0 seconds. I say "it was held" because Bill Coffee took his Z this year... Bill cranked out the Fastest Time Of Day both Saturday and Sunday.. 40.019 and 40.992 shattering the old record. Video of an E-Type running the course, followed by Bill's Z. < FWIW, Carl B.

You need to take clear photos showing the details of the car if you want to sell it. You would have to get the car up on a lift and take pictures of the floorboards and framerails - especially when the car is located in the North, Mid-West or North Eastern States... With the pictures you posted, there is really no way to even guess if $2.8K is too much or far too little. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Bruce: So I take it that the answer to my question is "NO" it will not be $5,500.00. FWIW, Carl B.

News from The Datsun Heritage Museum: - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Fred Jordan writes: It is my pleasure to announce that Yutaka Katayama (Mr. K) our friend, and mentor was recently inducted into the JAHFA (Japanese Hall of Fame Association). Congratulations to a long overdue honor! - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Great News... Carl B.

Yes Bruce - but will it be $5,500.00?????

Panamared: To tell you the truth - I don't know if I can be of much help or not. I'll be glad to try. The real problem is that most people that have good used engines - really aren't equipped to crate them up for shipping, nor do they know how, nor who, to use to ship the engine to an address in Panama. The logistics of all that can be very time consuming, so it's just far easier for them to sell to a local buyer. Companies that specialize in remanufacturing engines - usually do have the facilities to crate an engine for shipment, and they usually know how to have it shipped. The next obsticle might be that many companies will not deal with an individual outside the Country. Have you checked with your local Nissan Dealer - to see what they could do? They might not have a source for remanufactured L24's any longer - but they might be willing to order one from a source you supply. A supplier in the States might be willing to ship an engine to a Nissan Dealership in Panama. Just some thoughts... Carl B.

Funny - I get $2130.00 + 240.00 core charge + $15.00 skid charge = $2385.00. Still not a bad price by todays standards for a remanufactured engine, with a 3 year, 100K mile warranty.. FWIW, Carl B.

Exactly what engine do you want? L24 or L28? Do you need a complete rebuilt engine, including the head and all accessories - or just a new long block, or short block? Or are you looking for a good used engine? Do you know how you are going to have it shipped, and what the shipping costs would be from AZ - vs -from Florida for example? Provide lots more specific information - and you might get a good response. good luck Carl B.

Hi Kats: An answer to your last question - first. I'm still trying to outline a simple answer to your first questions. The red car used in the 1970 US Sales Brochure is HLS30 0007. The Silver car is HLS30 0008 and the Greeen car is HLS30 0006. The red car used in the 1969 US Sales Brochure was most likely HLS30 00002 or 00003. Most likely the same car used in the Factory Picture and Press Release Documents you provided. It looks like they were all from the same photo session of the same car. The picture in the original 1969 US Sales Brochure - seems to have had the DATSUN and 240-Z emblems photo-edited into the original picture. You can see that the 240-Z emblem is on the wrong angle even. The car in the Service Slide show - could be 00003 - as you have it marked at possibly going to the Service Dept. On the other hand it might be 00002 because the suspension components seem to be scuffed in the pictures - and 00002 is listed as being Test Driven by Shatai Fun to try to figure this out... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi JC Nice Z - what brings you to Mountain View? What is the background image in your picture? Plan to stay in the USA or are you going to convert that 240 to Right Hand Drive and take it back with you? Just curious.... At any rate you picked a great area to settle in for older Z's. Drive that Z up to Seattle on the PCH and you'll love it all the more.. Heck, take a few extra days and go on up into B.C..... Welcome aboard... FWIW, Carl B.

I think to more fully understand or appreciate the "Trade Mark" thing - you have to keep in mind that Peter Brock is a "Professional Designer". In a broader sense he is an accomplished and well known Industrial Designer. He has designed cars, hang-gliders, and Graphics Packages among many other things. For example, Mr. Brock created the paint scheme and logos for Shelby America while employed there. Of course we all know that Mr. Shelby had copyright and registered trade marks on everything related to the Shelby Brand Name. The BRE Racing Team's cars were all rolling bill boards for "Peter Brock Designs" and the BRE Corporation, and thus the image of the BRE Cars Graphic Design packages, became Registered Trade Marks of Peter Brock and BRE Inc. They were "award winning" Graphic Design Packages Model Companies are one group that reproduce the BRE Design images, but there are people out there that were selling complete BRE Decal Packages on E-Bay as well, without permission and without paying the royalties due. Like Ron said, if you are doing a replica or tribute car I don't think you would have any problem getting a release from BRE. Matter of fact if the replica was complete and accurate enough to warrant a "release from BRE"... it would in a way be an endorsement of accuracy from them!! On the other hand if you are making money by using a BRE Design, without paying the royalties due any professional designer... you are in effect stealing from them. FWIW, Carl B.

no - Peter built a new V8 powered 510. I think it is pictured elsewhere on this site from the recent Japanese Classic Car Show.. FWIW, Carl B.

Or it is possible that someone thought that the "gray" was simply sun faded plastic, and sprayed it black to make it look new. We'll most likely never know... FWIW, Carl B.

At that price you ought to grab it for a futue project - you could fly out and drive it back... Carl B.

Looking at the Ad. - I'm a little confused. The Ad claims it was built in 69, but titled as a 1970 Z. The Date Of Manufacture stamped on the data tag says 02/70. It might have started production in 69 - but it would seem to have been finished 02/70. The original engine certainly lines up with a production start in 69... wonder what held it up... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi bigoak: I lived in Washington State for four years in the late 60's and early 70's- believe me - it takes no effort at all the get across the border. There are at least 10 back roads that cross the US/Canada boarder on the North East part of Washington - where there are only Boarder Guards stationed part time or not at all. That is also the case above Idaho and Montana. What is really funny, is when you pull up to a boarder station (a little one man hut) that is closed and you can see the trail around the "gate" that has been worn in the ground by so many cars coming and going. Today - if you have a GPS system with you - you might be able to determin if you are in the US or Canada - when your out in the woods hunting/hiking or off-roading on an ATV... for hundreds of miles along the boarder. Friends and family that still live and hunt in the area tell me nothing has changed. Just one reason that the US's entire "Homeland Security" agency is a bad joke. FWIW, Carl B.

Anyone near the car? That could go inspect it with a critical eye and report back to us? FWIW, Carl B.

Somewhat off topic perhaps...but.... Actually, it's hard to think of any car mass produced by a major automotive manufacturer, and sold in the USA since 1956 that doesn't fit that description. Can anyone think of a car that had a totally new body style, on a completely new chassis, powered by a completely new engine and drive train by its manufacturer? Why 1956? I just picked it out of the air - pick any model or calendar year you like. 1960 Corvair perhaps....body √ chassis √ engine √ drive-train √ FWIW, Carl B.

Zak/Sliprenoodle - did you check the VIN to see if the car was stolen in the US? Just wondered why the VIN wasn't posted here, or why it was removed from visible sight on the outside of the car, and why the previous owner didn't have a title.... etc etc. FWIW, Carl B

Hi Julio: Good tip... and always a good reason to keep a spare mustache bar around. I pulled the rear cover off the differential. Soaked the drain and fill plugs with Kroil for a day. Then put the cover in a vise (with wood blocks), applied a little heat from a propane torch to both the inside and outside surfaces around the fill then drain plugs. They broke free pretty easily at that point. Inspected the internals of the rear end, replaced the gasket and cover, then coated the plugs with anti-seize compound. Steel plugs in an aluminum cover always call for anti-seize compound. FWIW, Carl B.

The "estate" is only the transfer agent, carring out the wishes of the original owner. The agent for the estate, will transfer the title from the original owner directly to you. If the original owner put the car in a living trust, and transfered the title to the trust - then the trust is the second owner and you are the third. Title will transfer from the tust to you. FWIW, Carl B.

Given that this car has - Full US Spec. Emissions Controls with Air Pump - Ignition timing of 5 degrees, and single point distributor - Specifications given in US units So far - I would see no reason to think it was anything other than a US Spec. car. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Chris: The bumpers without rubber trim have always been listed in the Parts Catalog. 62650-E4102 ASSY-FRONT BUMPER (With Rubber Hole) 62650-E4103 ASSY-FRONT BUMPER (Less Rubber Hole) From 06/70 As an interesting aside - the rubber stips on the bumpers were required by certain State Laws - Florida was one of them. GM window stickers used to list the additional charge for the "Florida Required Rubber Bumper Trim"... around 74 it was $29.95 AIR. FWIW, Carl B.