SurferD

I'm refurbishing my lights and all the nuts broke when I took them apart. I found a set on eBay but they are from Thailand. I looked at all the usual parts sources. Does anyone know where to get them? https://www.ebay.com/itm/3X-HEADLIGHT-ADJUST-SCREW-WHITE-PLASTIC-FITFOR-DATSUN-FAIRLADY-240Z-260Z-280Z/150882540704?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D206154ce5fbd4f39b962027a811efb99%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D8%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D162684278544%26itm%3D150882540704&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Wat it just cheese or pepperoni?

Z-Cardepot is selling the Moroso for $649. Less than Moroso sells it for but still quite a lot for an oil pan I think. https://zcardepot.com/products/oil-pan-racing-competition-moroso-7-quart-240z-260z-280z?utm_source=Zcardepot+Communication&utm_campaign=80957fae7e-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2017_04_10_COPY_01&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_c84148f043-80957fae7e-80842517&mc_cid=80957fae7e&mc_eid=773be26f02

Definitely 919 sunshine yellow, same as mine. That’s a good price for a solid late series 1. Automatics weren’t standard but could be ordered and dealer installed at a later time. AC definitely either dealer installed or aftermarket.

Home Depot frost king rubber foam self stick weather seal. About $7 for a 10’ long roll. The size I got is 7/16 thick 3/4 wide

Mine was corroded but still readable. I Bought a repro tag and had an engraver put in the info. Its not the same typeface but I’m really the only one who notices. I kept the original and it’s with other important parts from the car. To answer your question yes take it off prior to paint as there may be rust under it.

Either fab it yourself or get a donor. No one makes 4?

Is that AAR Cuda? It always amazes me how PPE is overlooked by us regular guys and the ones on the fake resto shows on TV. They're grinding away without any earplugs or glasses most of the time. I always make sure I have hearing and eye protection and usually wear gloves of some kind. Also a respirator/dust mask if needed. Thanks for bringing that up.

While Nissan didn't do it, metal over plastic is a quite common manufacturing technique. A place I used to work for that made decorative caps for the cosmetic industry had their own vacuum deposit line. See paragraph 1.3 of the following white paper. http://tennvac.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/Metallization-white-paper-–-Physical-Vapor-Deposition-Technology.pdf

I'm doing this right now. The rear wasn't so bad but I did end up using a recip saw along the edges and once out, removing the spots from the underside. The front was harder since access to the welds was limited. I ended up cutting the whole thing out and again removing the spots from under. BTW I have this cutter and while not perfect saves a lot of time. http://shop.blairequipment.com/Premium-Spotweld-Cutter-Kit-p/11082.htm

Hey Jughead is that cross section from your car? Thats a serious chunk to take out at once.

true that Diseypon is a real craftsman. I bought one of the last two sets he made. He's taking a break from fabricating for sale and concentrating on his car.

wow I'm amazed at your persistence and striving for perfection. Another great video Jeff.

I talked to Brent yesterday. Great guy and really talented. I ordered a complete left/right set of his inner panels and tie-ins. I only hope my skills are half as good as his.

Whitehead has them at a small fortune https://whiteheadperformance.com/product/spirit-garage-stainless-steel-jdm-exhaust-header-datsun-240z-260z-280z-l24-l26-l28-engines-1970-78/

a few years back I picked up a Lincoln 140C used on CL for $350. I had a left rail that was the same but the full length. As others have suggested I welded in a strip of sheet metal for the bottom of the hat section. I did get lots of little burns because I just had a sweatshirt on so wear layers if you don't have a leather welding jacket. It came out OK but messy looking due to my lack of skill. I filled in the gaps with seam sealer and painted it. It's good until I really do a full resto.

You must coat the bare metal with something at least until you sort the correct colors. After blast and before paint you should do a phosphate wash to prevent corrosion. Eastwood makes a good one but you have to be careful to wipe as directed because it pools and leaves hard deposits. Not bad unless it’s the outside surface.

Awesome work Jeff!

I use a Covercraft Noah for the CT weather which includes heavy rain and snow. I'ts good but does get saturated in rain but dries quickly. https://www.covercraft.com/us/en/product/custom-noah-car-cover.C-CCNH

Jeff, music's definitely better. That stripper is messy stuff.

A question I have about the tang, is it a 90deg bend or angled so it can drag when rotating but snag the opening?

Yea that would be some nice change. Star Wars didn’t come out until 1977 so it’s a possibility but I seriously doubt anyone on that crew was wrenching on their own cars.

Namerow keep updated. I have a 1970 FSM. I’ll have to look it over again but all I remember is a diagram of the assembly and angles in relation the the car.

I’ll have to read my owners manual and see if it says anything about that feature. When I reinstalled the motor I verified that in fact it does rotate once in the opposite direction once.

Baseless or not, mine has the rubber flap. Apparently there were different styles of flap for the early cars.