texasz

That one is a different style.

Another option is to just get rid of the vapor tank. http://www.zhome.com/Racing/FuelTankVaporLineMod/FuelTankVaporMod.htm

Ok, now I'm looking for one of these also. Please let me know if you have one.

I wish I could remember why this it is stuck in the back of my brain that there was something with the early cars vs later ones and having/not having vents. Maybe just poor memory.

I was just looking at HLS30-08215 and it does not have the vents in the seats. It sticks in my mind that the early cars did not have them. Can someone help elaborate on this? @Carl Beck @KatZ @HS30-H or others, maybe one of you have details.

Same reason, you can have air in the master cylinder that gets 'stuck' in there rather than passing into the lines and ultimately to the corners of the car. I ran into this with in replaced all my brake components a few months back. After bleeding the master cylinder I was able to get enough pressure to then bleed the corners and all was good.

Have you got a source for these?

These are good points about the master cylinder. What brake booster and master cylinder do you have in the car?

The filter and cover do not just slide straight down and over the backing place. You have to put the filter in the cover then carefully work it on at an angle...lean the top towards the passenger side to get it past the airhorns then straighten it out and secure using the long wing bolts. It is already a very tight fit so your second gasket may be just a tad bit too much depending upon how thick they are. Edit: Removal is the reverse of the above in case anyone else reading this asks. 🙂

I believe that the Mustang you reference was sold as a 1964.5. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Mustang_(first_generation)

Maybe it's just in 4th gear.

Not exactly. I've talked with him about this and he does not do anything that directly fits the MSA headers out of the box, it will require a small bit of pipe and fabrication to mate the two systems. It did not sound like very much, and knows of others who have mated the two systems so it can certainly be done.

Yes, that is correct.

We were installing the fuel tank this morning and I noticed some stuff peeling off of the under side of the car in the VERY rear. While most of the under side does have body paint this area seems to have some kind of coating over the orange paint and that is what is flaking off. See pix. The fuel tank is back in the car now so I no longer have access to this area, hope these pix help.

Nope, the filters nor the expand/collapse functionality is available. I do no think that is a huge issue though since the sections are expanded we can see everything and I believe that if some one were to save a copy then they could make use of the filters and expand/collapse functions (I did not test this though).

I don't see when this ad was posted. I know I've seen this one listed for sale before though.

Here's your mounting bolt kit: https://www.zeddsaver.com/products/datsun-240z-air-cleaner-bolts

I have heard good things about the Falken Azenis for many years.

I like this one! I just used it to compare the OE tire size to the new tire size on our Tundra and got the info I wanted. Thank you for the link!!

Glad to have been able to help. 🙂

Perfect although now I have another question... The small hose coming from the block breather tube flows TO this check valve which the directs flow to the air cleaner. The large hose that comes off of the block breather tube flows to the balance tube between the carbs (see pic for both). This seems redundant to me. What am I missing or not understanding? For anyone wanting to use these pictures in the future I've corrected the flow arrows through the check valve (see pic below).

I have a few related questions... What is the direction of flow towards the engine (the direction of the arrows in picture)? Is there a check valve in that block that only allows flow in the direction of the arrows (see picture)? If both of the above are true would it be alright to have both hoses coming out of the that block go to the air cleaner?

Yes, I'll be holding on to and reusing those. Satin black, thank you for that tid bit! I replaced nearly all the fuel hoses in the rear of the car this past weekend and found several of the OE hose clamps missing and in their place the typical style you would buy at any auto parts store (worm screw style). Time to keep an eye out for any OE ones I can get a hold of on the cheap to have refinished when I do a full restoration later down the road.

@SteveJ and @jfa.series1 for the info, using what you both provided I found the line and am attaching pictures of where it goes under my hood. Clearly there have been issues, you can see the dry/cracked hoses and electrical tape on one (assuming this is because it was cracked through), also the fact that one of the hoses is missing (I'm guessing this is the one that would go to the air cleaner housing). Something that will be interesting is what to do with the hose that currently goes to the crank case breather because my new engine (an L28) does not have a provision for this, it only accommodates the one large hose. Any thoughts on that?

The "air supplier tube" is #13 in the attached diagram. What purpose does it serve? Where does it go (looks like towards the engine bay)?