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Ah, thanks for that info Carl. Guess i'm gonna have to poke around and see if I can figure out why its plugged up, and maybe clear it out. I plan on flushing and backflushing the whole system extensively when I slap the head back on. As far as I can tell the bottom end is OK at the moment and should last me just fine until I get together the motor i'm aiming for this winter. The original head was run on unleaded I guess, so the original intake seats were beaten up into the head.

I looked through my manuals and I couldnt find any diagram that showed what each hole was used for in the engine block (as seen from the cylinder head mating surface). I was kinda worried about this one hole because it seemed to be completely filled in with some sort of powdery stuff. It almost looked like dirt, with some small rust particles sprinkled in it. My question is, what is this hole used for? Water passage? Oil passage? useless hole? see picture:

Yeah if you look at the sellers other signs, they are all similar construction with different logos placed in them. I was interested at first when I thought it was a real sign from a real dealership

Yeah you guys are right, I am taking it up to the machine shop tomorrow. I talked to them on the phone and they told me it shouldnt be a problem. While its up there I guess i'll have them doublecheck the rest of the head before I slap it on my motor

I'm in the process of swapping cylinder heads. In the farthest forward manifold stud hole on , there is a damaged helicoil insert starting several turns below the surface. It's older than all the other inserts I think. It is damaged to the point that I cannot get a screw in since it has numerous burs within the thread, I think from the threads seizing up around the old stud before someone forced it out. I tried chasing a tap through it but ended up breaking off the tip! barely got the fragments out (bad idea, I know. Didn't realize how hard those inserts are) 1) Do I really need this stud? If I use all the other studs, and just not this one will I have trouble getting a good seal with a 6-2 header? and/or 2) How can I get the old helicoil out, and would it be futile to try to put a new one in its place? Keep in mind the hole is already drilled out to 21/64 (i believe) for the 8x1.25 insert

I ordered a set of manifold studs from MSA along with a header and some other parts. They sent me 17 studs and 17 nuts, all identical. I'm not sure if this is the same as cars originally equipped with studs all around, but thats what they sent me. When I was pulling the original manifolds, the upper points holding the intake and fuel rail on were regular bolts instead of studs. Hope thats helpful I haven't gotten around to fitment yet, but I should be able to get started in a few days when I receive a tap I ordered

Cool, this is something I need to do. Your post put it in easier to visualize terms than posts i've seen before. Did you happen to take any pictures? What did you do about the holes where the hoses come through the floor? I thought i'd read someplace that the grommets were NLA

I agree, there are some members with much greater attention to detail(kats comes to mind) than i've seen on these "factory restored" cars. Not to take away from them however, the job was still very good.

I've always thought sonic was overrated, the burger always seems to be smashed inside the little foil envelope by the time it gets to me. I usually hit up whataburger when its time for that (its a southern thing).

hahaha, had same thought

Voted 'some college' since i'm still there Going into my 3rd year working on a bachelors in aerospace engineering, transferring to UT austin for fall so i'll be moving down there this summer.

280Z negative trip 3-wire tach

240Z inductive loop 4-wire tach

Tanny, I remember seeing a similar post myself. I think Victor Laury posted it? If i'm mistaken, sorry. I can't remember what thread it was in though. I don't know about there being a viscous coupling inside the tach. I had a 240Z and 280Z (4 and 3 wire respectively) tach apart a few weeks ago, didn't take as many reference pics as I guess I should have, but here are 2 pics. From what I could tell the movement of the needle was controlled by 2 springs that you can see wrapped around the center spindle

Thanks for the replies, I am in the process of pulling the head right now anyway. I figure I have this head sitting here with all the hard parts done already, I may as well have it finished up.

I was adjusting my valves today for the first time (cold initially so I can get it down, then warm later). Adjusting the exhaust valves was easy. The problem I ran into was with the intake valves. On most(all except maybe 2) of them, the adjustment nut was already so close to the lock nut that even when I turned it in the correct direction until it would turn no more, the clearance was still too small by 4-6 thousanths. This head is original and still has the bronze(?) valve seats as far as I know. I've been told they get 'beaten' into the head after many miles, especially without leaded fuel, could this be related to my problem? On a related note, I ran a dry compression test (cold motor)finally yesterday and it went something like this : Cylinder--pressure 1--180 2--175 3--170 4--155 5--145 6--125 doing a 'wet test' on the low cylinders did not increase the pressure at all. I'm told this shows a decreased likelyhood in low compression because of worn rings/bore and more likely due to head issues. I should also point out that the front cylinders allowed me to get closer to the intake valve spec on adjustment, with 1 being right on, down to 6 which at max adjustment was only about .002 clearance. I have a rebuilt e88 head sitting on my workbench(picture in my gallery, btw) that I will probably have a shop move the cam/cam towers/rockers over to from my current head. (or is this a bad idea?) Any advice you engine guys could give me would be helpful.

I am a 20 year old college student, got my Z when I was 18. The car is under Allstate with full coverage without any of the mileage limitations like on a lot of those specialized classic car insurers. The car is insured on a plan with some other cars in my family, so I guess it isn't as bad as if I was totally on my own. I have no tickets or accidents (knock on wood!) and when the car was first added to the plan I think it was somewhere around $600 per 6 months additional for that car. The other cars on the plan were all $800+ Fast forward to last month : they shifted around the amounts on our plan. The total rate for ALL the cars is still the same, but now the Z is listed at $1490 or something per 6 months, the other vehicles all dropped to cheaper as the Z was before. I'm still not sure whats going on there. It's not a huge deal to me really since the total is still the same, but it just seems odd that they would shift it around like that.

Hello Carl, I wasn't disagreeing, I agree totally on your point about the FSM having a prerequisite of mechanical aptitude. Lots of sections have a single step for "removal" and "inspection" that leave a little to be desired for someone who has never messed with that particular part before. I have several manuals and I usually have them all open on my workbench while i'm working on something, and still there are some things I just have to figure out. I think having all the answers given to me would take some of the fun out of it anyway. My Z is not my daily driver (yet) so it is more like a relaxing hobby for me.

I bought my FSM last year from Andy Russel for $75 (1972 year with chassis/body in one volume) brand new. I haven't really done business with him since (he did however do a good job, I just have been dealing with midwestZ and MSA mainly). Not sure what his prices are like these days. You could try shooting him an email at z@datsundude.com Bambi is right about the FSM being pretty vague on certain things. It does however have a lot of useful photographs and some good prints of the wiring schematics.

This might be a dumb question... I've been looking through my FSM and I can't find anything about this part. It's not in the wiring diagram, the ignition diagrams or the emissions control diagrams. It's got one wire and its connected to the positive post on my ignition coil. This is on the drivers side inner fender. What is it?

I can tell you from first hand experience, the half covers look absolutely terrible (in my humble opinion). The big edge across the horizontal axis of the dash just breaks up the lines. The previous owner of my car slapped one on there and I am looking forward to the day I can have the dash restored professionally. The full-face dash covers (and someone correct me if I am wrong) will make it impossible (or extremely difficult) to remove the tachometer and speedometer without pulling the dash.

Well, the cold seemed to cause the putty stuff to gum up slightly. I was able to use some small screwdrivers to pry up the inner edges of some of the holes and pry it out from behind little by little. Now I just need to wait for it to dry off. It's a pretty humid day today so when I bagged it up and put it in the freezer, some frost developed in the few hours it was in there :stupid: