EuroDat

chaztg I know how you feel. On another forum I was hooned off when I asked a question above replacing the 5th gear fibre synchro ring in a 71A transmission. Here its a lot different. Everyone has ideas and the comments are friendly even if they don't agree with each other or your point of view. Chas

im using standard brakes. Just finished rebuilding the front calipers. The sells between the two sections are hard to get. Nissan dont supply then and the fsm doesnt recommend pulling them apart. I stripped them down and had then cleaned and coated instead of the quick and easy heat proof paint. With seal kits and these pistons http://www.ebay.com/itm/160720280159?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 They are like new. Toyed with the idea of "upgrading" but thats was more for looks than performance. One word of advice if you go this road. The original setup had a complete engineering team behind it testing and improving it till it where it is now. Your upgrade will not have that benifit. You will have to do all the testing. I helped a friend do his car. He thought it was great, but it wasnt. The car was nose driving which gave him the impression it was braking better. Just my two cent worth;)

Can someone post a link to a shop where you can buy SEM's. Im having trouble trying to find it in Europe and might have to order it over the net. Or a photo of the cans, then I can ask a local if he can supply it. Thanks Chas

This is truly the most impressive resto job you can do on your car. Really amazed how the old badly cracked dashes turn up like new. Im now buzy with 240 bumpers on my 280z and a 71C transmission swap. The next project will be the dash, thanks to you guys. My dash is cracked and the PO put a cap on it. He used plenty of glue and I think he might of been cross eyed:ermm: because it didnt line up to good. It really annoys me when I look at it. Grats for the Great posts and the dashes, but that goes without saying, just look at the results. Chas

You can check the cylinder by doing a compression test. If the pressure is the same as the other cylinders its oke. I have used my Compression tester plug with an air compressor to test leaks in cylinders. If you dont have that kind of compression tester, you can punch the internals out of a spark plug and fit a hose to that. I can post photos later. On the smart phone now. The test is simple, just turn engine to tdc on that cylinder, transmission in top gear, handbrake on, conect air compressor the spark plug hole. Listen at the oil filler cap, intake and exhaust. Try a couple of other cylinders to get and idea of what it sounds like. Chas

A lot of effort for little gain. Im not sure what you want to achieve here? A set of extractors from MSA, which are now 20% cheaper in their Holiday special, would probably work better and more fuel efficient which would mean no problems with smog regulations.

If your planning to sell, have you tried new oil? Drive it for a while and get the oil warm, drop in over night. Fill it with a good quality oil and maybe an oil additive will help drop noise down to an aceptable level. Its less work than changing a transmission and you don't know what the other one will do. Yes that possible; Im speaking for a "been there done that" and now on my third transmission project, the 71c. Just working my way through the alfabeat, abc... Goodluck Chas

I threaded my tension rods and fitted a tension rod T/C kit from MSA to get some caster adjustment. Im now in the same situation your in. Chamber plates or the bushings for the lower control arms. I like the idea of the bushings, its simple and doesnt require any structure mods. Effective?? I have never seen them in use and would be interested in other members experience/advice. Chas

I have listerned to your video and cant make much of it. Doesnt make much differance anyway. If the noise is really annoying you then you need to replace ALL the bearings since the rest wont be far behind the suspect bearing. Identifying which bearing is not that important, just nice to know before you pull the tyransmission apart. I used C2 bearings, but didnt help much. I think my transmission is just to old. Bearings are not the only things that wear in a tranmission. I included a couple of photos of my tranny and the bearings. They are the old one out of the 71B. My next project will be the 71C transmission I have on standby. Good luck with it Chas

The tolerances classes in ball bearings is an ISO spec. The internal clearances are classed from C1 (the tightest) through to C5 (the loosest or largest). There is also a CN and a CM. the The CN "normal" has a range sitting between C2 and C3. The CM "motor" is for electric motors and has a range similar to CN has has less noise. Saying all that, the C3 spec is not the quietest ball bearing out there and will generate noise, but this was acceptable in those days. I dont think the problem here is in the ball bearings. It is most likely in the neddle roller bearing between input & output shafts. The problem with replacing this bearing is the bearing is not the only thing that wears here. Its not a sealed unit and relies on the surfaces on the shaft to run properly. If those two surfaces wear and become pitted it will be out of tolerance and make noise. Replacing the bearing will help but it wont take all the noise away. Like Zed said, most of these transmissions make a degree of noise and that is normal considering the life on them. My Transmission makes noise and I am now planning the change over to a 300zx transmission type 71C.

I cant watch the video from my mobile. I take it you have replaced those parts; clutch, pressure plate, thrust bearing, pilot bearing. Did it have this noise before you changed the parts? What your describing sounds like the bearing between the input and output shaft in the transmission. In that case you should also hear it, maybe to a less degree, in 1st and 2nd gear. 4 th gear would be totally silent.

Dont know anyone who has used one. Why do you want to go aluminium? Plenty of other ways to reduce weight and cheaper per ounce. Ligthening the flywhel etc.

One small piece of advice, photo 3429. Try to get out of the habit of using the fenders as a workbench (black socket set and other tools) you will regret it later. They can dint so easily. Once she is all paint and shining, the smallest dint is so visable.

Nice post you got going here. Good detail makes for a good read. Keep up the good work.

Well im gob smacked, dont know what to say really. Glad its not my z. Id need therapy to get over seeing it go through that.

Smoooooth

Maybe he change the cam and used the old one as a core deposit? If its a mild cam you might not notice the differance because you hve not driven the car before the change over. To change the cam for a standard P79 cam seems a lot of money and effort for little improvement. The specs are here http://www.xenons30.com/cams.html

I always thought the P90 and P90a heads were tubo and the P79 head was the NA head. If you stay with a P90 it shouldn't be a problem. The P90 was used in 81/82 and the P90a with hydraulic lifters came out in 83.

Mine was a little jittery too, but main problem was rattling especially after new bushes in the suspension. This rattle had me stumped for a while, it was only a low speed driving rattle. Now I know it was because the wind put tension on the linkage by pushing the wipers up when I drove faster than 60km/hr. The linkage is domed shaped where the ball fits and the ball is held in place by a chrome plated spring steel shell. It is fitted with to small rivits. If you have to much play you could try removing the plate squeezing the dome section to remove the excess play. It would be trail and error. I have included photos of the linkage with the chrome shell with small rivits.

You don't mention the model. 280Z 77-78 have 3 red and 1 black. I think the red is 50amp, black is 40amp. The fsm doesnt mention the amperage.

I am assuming you have dismantled the linkages from the wiper arm pivots by removing the soft metal circlip. Once you have done that you can clean the old grease out with decreaser or equivelant. The eyeball itself doesn't come apart. I cleaned it with degreaser/parts washer and worked the new grease in with a small brush and turning the eye over in the socket untill the grease filled the cavity. Its hard to explain and I didn't take photos, but you can turn the eyeball in such a way that the hole is horizontal in the socket. When you do that you can see into the cavity and with a small brush you can work the grease into it. Someone fitted my unit with three o-rings. I changed them for felt which I had to cut out of a thin mat. Couldn't find any battery terminal felts here. I needed something to stop the rattle. That was my biggest problem. Glad I done it, they have never worked so good and smooth. Goodluck with. Chas

Been there, done that. All I can say is Vintage Rubber is worth every cent. If its worth the time and money to replace, spend a little more. Genuine is the best but I wonder how old the genuine nissan parts are these days? If they have been on the shelf for 20years there wont be much life left.

Anyone know what type of powered rack and pinion he is using? Looks pretty close to original system. Neat setup. Give him 10 points for effort, not my taste though. Im not into all that kit car stuff.

Wow, It comes with CD Player "options" That mean the rest is standard?

Welcome, Now your truly got Z fever:D She looks tidy and clean. What are your plans with the car?