EuroDat

Now I understand. You want to remove the standard bushing in the replacement LCA so you can use your chamber bushes. Easiest way is to heat the outside steel sleeve and LCA section around it. Grap the center sleeve with a pair of vice grips and try to turn it until it gives way. Then pull it out with the rubber. Cut the outer steel sleeve section to get it out. See this link: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/frontcontrolarm/index.html In the instruction he heats the center and burns the rubber out of the outer sleeve which stinks (toxic fumes) and smokes a lot. Goodluck Chas

Not quiet sure what you mean by "push out the old bushing". The one you have in your hand (chamber adjustment bush) is out and the control arm doesnt have any metal sleeve in it. Can you post a photo os what you mean? Makes it a lot clearer. The chamber udjustment bushes come as a complete set. You cant just replace the rubber. Chas

Leon, Thanks for clearing the up. I knew there was a differance, but didnt know it was that big. 5%. With pounds it even worse if you get it mixed up. 1 English pound to 1.6 US lbs.

The plugs are looking better. Looks like your almost there. If you have new injectors, I would use them. Have you checked your AFM? If the spring tension has weakened the ecu will think its getting more air and give more fuel. You can follow these instructions to check it and do some field adjustments. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/calibration/index.html http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html If you follow those tips, you can then use a temp. sensor resistor to richen the mixture after making it leaner in second tip. Chas

Im not much of an expert on turbo Z's, but if you not using "high" octane fuel the N42 with flat tops is out of the question. The heads: The N42 is considered the better head because it doesnt have the exhaust port inserts. The P90 & P90A are considered the best flowing heads from all the Z's. I would go for the N42 with dished pistons, but we can still get 98 octane fuel. With 91 octane it might not be the right choice. Chas

You might want to read this thread. John has done reserch on the best settings for the z but its not that simple to get a shop that wants to spend the time getting it right. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/wheels-tires-brakes-s30/47764-alignment-shops-arghhhh.html Chas

I know how you feel. I just received a taillight from the US. $30,00 which was € 73,65 all up with shipping. Then i had to pay €21,36 tax and €13,00 customs charges:sick: Total €108,50 to get a taillight that cost 30 bucks (€23,25) in the US:angry: Apparently prices wnt up as from 1 january 2013. U verwacht een pakket uit het buitenland? - Houd rekening met inklaringskosten | PostNL Pakketten Chas

They are available at MSA or Dragon Auto. Its a simple way to do minor chamber corrections. Motorsport! Camber Adjustment Kit, Front, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts Motorsport! Camber Adjustment Kit, Front, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts Chas

My Nissan dealer found one in Japan. He said it was hard to find and he is pretty good at tracking things down. I think whats out there is just old stock. It wont be long until its all gone. Nissan has stopped making them:cry:. This is one of the little gadgets I like about the datsun.

Hi Nils, Im amazed that the front end is in such good condition and the rest badly rusted. It must of had some pretty bad water leaks in the cabin or the PM left that dam sunroof open when he parked it:ermm: Cool website, speedhunters:love: Chas

Love the the guys comments, "d#*k head" "champ; almost took out two cops, would have been great to get on camera" "awesome". banana bendersLOL

I do the same thing. Sounds a bit like "hobby bob", but it has always worked for me. I have done 3 sets for 260/280z. The glue is so old that it comes apart pretty easy. Scrapping the old glue out of the groove, once you have the lens out, is a PITA though. I use a sealant very similar to the windscreen sealant to glue them back in. That way you can get then out without breaking them. Dont forget the felt plug in the drain. Chas

Really nice job you have done so far. Look forward to see it progress. Chas

Hi Alyssa & hubby, Welcome to the club. The car looks good in the photo. If you choose a colour other than original. The choice is yours. IMO it doesnt increase value that much, definitely not enough to warrant the colour change. The tranny swap is not that hard. I would go fot the 5sp from the 280zx. Thats the FS5W71B which has the closs ratios and brass 5th gear synchro. Well Enjoy the club and see you around:) Chas

I ordered a complete new unit from Nissan. Once I have it I could make copies of the lens if anybody is interested. Chas

And the winner gets to sell one to me:D. That is if I live that long! Save me the trouble of starting a project Illnever finish.

Normally the E-Fast database shows the new part number and former. I can only find the "former" number. The Nissan dealer pointed me to the 720 truck part number. I was just wondering why Nissan didnt add it to the 240Z - 280Z parts cat. Would have same time searching. Maybe its because it was an option in the Z's?

Found the size of the two o-rings today. The two behing the nuts. Size 16.39x2.21mm (IDxCross section) according to standard AS568-908. The cups are going to be harder to solve if at all.

Thats a darn shame. It sounded promising. Sounds like most my projects. I really like the idea of digitalising the ECU to make it tunable, but thats on hold like so many other "good idea while I am at it" projects. Now working on one thing at a time, being the complete brake system resto. Chas

Just heard mine is on its way. I can pick it up next thursday:D Nissan here says the p/n: 89902 is NLA. I wonder what the difference is between the two part numbers 89902 and 10W00? Maybe one is sivler and the other the gold colour?

Hi Zcurves, Your idea is just what I had in plan. Take to parts to a hydraulic shop and find which o-rings fit best. Then order then in EPDM. Chas

Hi guys, Thanks for the input. Greatly appreciated. I agree, the O-Rings are easy to replace. When I find the sizes, I will post then. Most brake components are EPDM, but Im not sure if its sulpher cured or peroxide cured. Where I work we use a lot of O-Rings and gaskets and our experience with the peroxide variant is better in higher temperature conditions. This company is good for information about rubber compounds. A link to there site Datasheets | O-Ringen They recommend there 559311 compound which is peroxide cured EPDM. My biggest challenge is to find replacement cups. Its difficult to know where to start. I was thinking of trying a brake specialist and looking at what he has that might fit. My goal is to retain the original proportioning valve and not replace then with some aftermarket unit. Trying to keep a bit of original look in the car. Ill keep you posted. Chas

I use to get parts at my local nissan dealer, but he claimed almost everything I wanted was NLA. A workmate pointed me to another dealer. Dave works in the parts service and is a oldtimer freak with his share of old cars. He has built up his own contact network restoring his own car and Ive got to know him well. If he cant get it then I beleive its NLA. Hope he can still get it. Chas

I would be interested in one too. Love to get some tunability on the stock system. If he pulls this off, he wont be superlen he will be SUPERLEN:D Chas

Not yet, I called in today and it wasnt in yet. He did get a message from the warehouse that my brake master cylinder repair kit was on back order. The other parts were on their way. Dave is pretty good at tracking parts down. My friend has a fairlady roadster with SR20DE powerplant. His local Nissan dealer couldnt get some parts for the distributor and Dave found them in Japan. Ill keep you posted. Chas