EuroDat

Any metals that contain high amounts of sodium, Potassium, or magnesium with burn when heated to ignition point and are hard to control. I have never seen aluminium and steel react to each other without one of the catylists metals.

A bit of advice; Buy yourself a good quality tube flare spanner for the brake lines. Saves damaging the flare nut when you end up using visegrips. http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_217518_langId_-1_categoryId_165469

I have never seen a datsun head drilled for injectors. They all use the manifold to mount the injectors. The N42 heads came out on the 75 - 76 280Z in the 48 states without catalytic convertor and using leaded fuel. As far as I know it only came with EFI. A po may have changed it over to SU's

If its an original cam stamped with "japan" its made of good quality steel. Regrinding that would be a good option. Be careful with aftermarket cams. If they are not post treated (a process called nitriding) to harden the surface they can wear very quickly and need replacing.

Kelly miss is spaming threads with this crap...

You might want to read this site for general info. http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/ The head section tells you the differance between heads and which cam will work in your N47 head. The N47 is the first head with internal lubrication of the cam. Chas

Hey Mike, did you just change the logo a minute ago. I swear I logged in with the Imperial flag Z scoop.

Thanks captain. If you have never removed the drums you could mistake that for being a cap. Chas

Ive seen a guy repair the chrome strip with foil it took a bit of practice but to result looked really good. The link is in dutch, but for €3.36 a roll worth a try. http://www.chroomfolie.nl/

Just wondering if you could use this to create a power and eco function by using two variable resistors and a switch to change over from one to the other. Then a dino-tune to determine the best for both functions. My Z is still set up for CA emmisions which is tougher than here. Id like to tune it without the emmision restrictions. This in maybe not the right post to go down that road.

Jamo, Are u talking about the cap on the mag wheel. Cant stop thinking "WTH is he talking about"

Slow to realize, takes years of experience. Thats my excuss anyway;)

Mike, I saw it yesterday and still trying to get use to it. Might be me getting oldLOL Z headlight / imperial sun. Creative

Ben, IMO After reading all this. I would check the run out on the cam to see if it is within spec and if so tunnel bore the PITA head and more on to your next problem:bulb: BTW, Fastwoman is spot on. Both must be out to cause hard spots otherwise the tnsion would be always the same. Chas

Hi Nils, I was wondering about the turn signal light above the front bumper. Never seen them before. In NL they wouldnt pass my CA Import until I disabled the turn signals on the side for safety reasons, but he coul not explain why:stupid:. Crazy when you think about it. Now you cant see the indicators from the side because 280z front indicators are zunk in the grill above the bumper. Chas PS: did Heiko pick up his roadster from a guy near Groningen NL? There is a guy there with 7 or 8 off them ( cant remember exactly) and a true roadster fan.

Ben, If you follow djwarner's instruction and find the source being one or more caps binding you have only one option imo. Have the cam tunnel bored and the head gasket surface shaved (just to make sure any warp is gone). Take as little as needed off. This way you with take any distortion out that can cause the binding. Six cylinder engines have a slight disadvantage of having such a long cam compared to 4 and v8 engines. The machine shop doesn't accually bore it larger. They shave the caps to close the tunnel enough to take the runout and then bore it to spec. The other thing I would check, while your at it, is the block deck. If the deck is out of true, its only going to warp the head when you retorque it and then your back to square one, sts. Chas

Just seen Zed's post and I tend to agree. Chaos is what springs to mind. Please dont take it wrong, but I get the feeling your just started learning brain surgery and the patient is already on the operating table, so to speak. I would be carefull changing parts from your good Z. You could damage something making both cars undrivable. Like Zed said, I dont see any readings. Are you using a multimeter? Without a multimeter its hard to check if electrical things are working correctly.

What is the voltage when cranking the motor. Use a multimeter to read battery voltage at the battery terminal posts. It should be at least 9 volts and with a jumper cable to another car even higher. If it drops below that, then your starter is pulling to much current and is probably defect or your engine is seized. I pursume the engine turns freely and has not ran out of oil or something like that.

Hi Ben, Looks like nothing is going to be easy for you with this rebuild:mad: Your idea trying the head on the blok sounds good. I would do it without the gasket. Not a good idea to retorque a new gasket. If the head was slightly warped and the shop machined it flat than the problem will not get any better. Only option then is to have the tunnel bored. A Second problem could be a bent cam. You could get that checked. Chas

I second Zed' post 21. If that his diagnosis than stear clear of him. He will only cost you money and probably make it worse.

Hi Nils, Looking good. Nice parts gathering your got going. Well you have a good parts car for your project. Is the black z a euro or a us import with euro taillights? Sounds like the white one was us, with the corvette taillight mod. My z is a us import. I spent 18 months looking for one. All the euro models are in pretty bad condition due to the salt in winter. Chas

Hi william, Just trying to understand what you mean by "no fire". I pursume it has no power anywhere, no lights, horn, no relays clicking etc. If you have no power anywhere then you have a problem with you main power supply. You said you replaced the "fuse box". Im not sure what you mean here. Is it a 280z? The fuses are located at the passenger side kick panal. The fusable links (fuses for main power supply) are located at the passengers strut tower in the engine compartment. The only fusable link at the battery is for the fuel injection (280z with efi). Are you handy with a multimeter? I would suggest using a multimeter to check the voltage. Start at the thick white wire coming from the positive battery terminal to the fusable links. Check for the same battery voltage at the point on both sides of the fusable links and work your way to the fuses in the car. Goodluck. Chas

U guys use a blue & white apron when you doing this sort a work?

I agree with Zed. Rebuilding a diff is not to be taken lightly. Ive mostly played with Ford 9" and salsbury diffs. Just understanding the geometry and the paterns on the crown takes years of experience. A lot of diffs will run with the alignment a little off, but they wont run quietly. You could make it worse by changing the bearings and making it whine through crown/pinion alignment issues. Are you sure its bearings and not a gear noise? You could try changing the oil can reduce the noise. Another option would be to pick up another diff. Chas

Chris, can you upload a photo? I have never seen one. My 280z doesnt have one and just wondering what it looks like.