EuroDat

Maybe I didnt explain it clearly. I learnt this from a mechanic in the coal mines working on belly dumpers and 789 cat rrucks. He was a bit of a bush mechanic and learnt to be a mechanic in the vietnam war. If you use the volt meter over a terminal it will read zero until current travels through it and it has resistance (potential differance). Example: A bad battery terminal. If you test with one probe on the battery post and one on the outside of the clamp it will read zero volts. When you start the engine its reads 3 volts. There is a resistance in the terminal connection. You can use this method to check all the wiring including the grounds. I found a couple of my bad grounds this way. One probe on the negative post and one on the body ground connection (not the bolt, use the ring the cable is connected to). Any voltage reading while your testing the lights ground with lights on then you have resistance in the ground connection. You can check the starter solenoid this way as well. Hold the probes on both terminals. It will read battery voltage. Get someone to start the engine. While cranking it should drop to zero voltage. An easy check for carboned contacts in the starter. Chas

Out of curiosity I looked it up in the E-fast Nissan cat. The catalogue says 40206-E4100 is replaced by 40206-E4101. Its probably the same just improvements over the years.

The rotors on the 240Z upto 07/74 had part number 40206-E4100. After 08/74 they had 40206-E4101. The E4101 was later changed to 40206-N3100. The original numbers are not the same, but most aftermarket sellers claim rotors for 240, 260 and 280Z.

Hi E-Tek, What can I say, but Looking good: past, present and cant wait to see the future photos:classic:

This problem (tension rod breaking) is mostly caused by PU bushings with a very shallow groove around the outside. My Energy Suspension kit had them and it caused the car to jump when I went around bumpy corners. I found a set with a much deeper groove, but opted for the T/C kit from MSA Motorsport! Tension Rod T/C Kit, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts since I was roughly the same price. I used an OEM rubber on the back and it works fine. Chas

Just to add to SteveJ's post. You can check the wiring by using a volt meter on the positive terminal on the battery and the wire that activates the solenoid. When the starter is cranking the voltage should read close to zero. If you see voltage then you have resistance causing voltage drop over the circuit.

Bart, If you find a local supplier that can fill spray packs. PM me. To mix one can would cost a lot. Maybe we can bulk buy and get a discount? Im in the same boat as you. All that shipping and taxes its getting ridiculous. At this rate ill spend €5000 on restoring and €10,000 on shipping and taxes. Chas

I have had strange problems like this on another car. Every now and then when I used the turn signals the wipers would work once. That sort of thing. I finally found the problem in the grounds. A lot of the ground wires had corrosion and two wre loose. It might be causing some of your problems. Chas

If I could get one for 200 bucks I wouldnt be complaining, but then I have shipping (generally more than the item itself) and I have to support our government in the way of taxes and import duties to deal with.:sick:

I knew a brickies labourer that had exactly the opposite problem. He had both collars and used the short collar where he needed the long one. To solve the problem he just made a longer rod for the slave cylinder. Only problem was the clutch fork hit the housing before the clutch was completly disengaged. You could only push the clucth pedal 3/4"down. After a test run grinding gears, he had to pull it back out. Talk about bad luck, but he wasnt all that bright...

Cc I not sure which collar you now have, but it sounds like you have the longer one. If you open the transmission link in post#8 and scroll down to the clutch forks. You probably have the left one in the right photo. Its 28mm from were the fork fingers sit to the back of the bearing. The right one is 24mm. You could ask the company that supplied the clutch for info on which collar to use. I think, but not certain of it, that they changed from 280z to 280zx, but that could be onlt the turbo model. It the clutch is for the 280ZX then that could be where your problem is. Chas

The video sound quality is not too good, but every now and then it clears up. Engines sounds good. It idles smooth, going by the "mobile not rattling of the fender test" Goodluck searching for a fender. It shouldnt be to hard to find one because all three models had the same fenders. Chas

You will need a lot of force to press the pressure plate in. You wont do it by hand, maybe with a lever of the clutch fork. What Im getting at with the collar is the distance between the clutch fork fingers and the bearing surface that pushes the pressure plate. I think your problem might be in a combination of the stage 1 pressure plate and the 280Z collar. If this is the problem, then you will have to remove the tranny:cry:

Ben, I have a couple of ideas. - Did you have this transmission in the car before your rebuild? - Does the fork move back and forth at all? Can you see the bearing pushing against the pressure plate? - Are you using the throw out bearing collar from your 280Z or another one? - I think the throw out bearing collar comes in two lengths; 24 and 28mm (fork to bearing surface). There might be other lengths. Do you know if you have the correct length collar for the stage 1 clutch your using. This link shows some of the forks and collar combinations Transmission2 Chas

I have been thinking about this method and agree with Captain Obvious post#29. You should be carefull because you are using so much force to get it moving in any direction. Pushing it back through could mushroom it and seize it up in the hub and it could make it worse. Just apply caution when/if you try this. IMO I think heat and pressing it out is the best bet. Even trying to get water drops on the pin to cool it might help. If its hot it will be softer and deform easier which is not what you want. Another method is to heat the pin red hot, let it cool off completly and then heat the hub and press it out. Heating the pin will expanded it. Try not to heat the hub. Cool the hub to stop it expanding. The pin can not expand in diameter so it will grow in length just couple thousands of an inch. When it cools it will shrink which could be enough to help get it out. Of course I'm standing on the side line giving comments. I wish you all the luck with it. One day you will be at a party and someone will say "I climb mount Everest" and you can say, "Thats nothing I took on Datsun spindle pins and I won" Chas

Hi guys, I started a new post for my bumper, vlaences mod. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/48611-fitting-240z-bumpers-valences-280z.html Try to keep Homeboyz thread for his repair job instead of hi-jacking it all the time. Chas

Check this site. transmission It shows the difference between the F4W71B, F5W71B and the F5W71C. Chas

Hi fellow members, I have been searching the forum and although I can find a lot of info about replacing the bumpers I can't find much about replacing the valences. My plan was to buy the fibreglass bumpers, fit them, if everything went well replace them with the Stainless steel bumpers from Harrington. Datsun 240Z and 260Z Bumpers | Harrington Group Fitting the front bumper was easy, but it left a big open area between the small two bar grill and the bumper. I knew there was a hight differance between the 240 and the 280 valences and decided to go down that road. The height difference was more than I expected. The 240Z is so much higher that the centre section between the valences can not be fitted because the chassis drops down to low. To solve this problem I want to fit a front airdam. I have found info on this and some say remove the centre section and use the airdam to hold it all together. Others say dont do that, it will vibrate at cruising speeds. Something which I could tend to agree with. To solve this I am going to make an aluminium frame to brace the two valences with the centre mount and use this to support the airdam. I dont have an 240z airdam yet so I not sure if it will be low enough to cover the lower section of the frame. Before I start digging an even deeper hole (buying an airdam, hiring a Mig welder to weld the frame) I decided to ask for help. Maybe someone has done this before or knows someone who has? Even the distances from the bumper to the lower edge of different airdams would be a great help or even photos. I will post photos of my progess. Any help / advice is much appreciated.

That looks a lot better. The LCA chamber bushes really do the trick. Your repairs are coming along nicely. I beleive you can use any model front fender 240 - 280Z. Your idea about grafting the 240Z turn signals into the was one of my ideas, but the 280Z valences are too curvy. They have a big round bulge and there are other concerns. Ill start a new thread on that subject. Im hi-jacking your thread here.

Hey Lazeum, How do you keep your Z unscaved in Paris. I learnt very quickly to look for a parking station for our car:bulb:. To get out they push the car in font or behind (with there car) to make room. This is like 100% use of parking space. This is the street where we stayed last time. This post doesnt really belong here, but I was just curious.

As far as I know, most countries in Western Europe allow the red turn indicator if the car was originally fitted with it and it entered the country with it. I had to change the headlights to H4 and remove the parklight function from the front indicator and side light. The parklight had to be wired into the headlight as you can see the extra cable to the headlight. To remove the parklight function from the indicator I just taped the connection on the bulb. That way I didnt need to cut to much wiring. Chas

I know there are different versions of the PU bushes for the Tension Rod. I had the version with a shallow groove around it. This reduced the flex in the joint and made the car twitchy over bumps in corners. Since then I have seen other bushes with a much deeper groove around the bush. Those bushes would most probably not have this problem. I opted for the T/C kit. Chas

An old friend put fender mirrors on his Z, he was always complaining about adjusting the things and every time he worked on the car they were in the road. Chas

The T/C kit is a good investment. Motorsport! Tension Rod T/C Kit, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts. It made my Z steer alot better over bumps in the corners. You read a lot about the bolts for the sway bar being to short. I didnt have any problem. To fit the nut , I just used a block of wood between the bolt and the frame and jacked the LCA up until the thread was showing enough to fit the nut. Last thing. The bushes for the sway bar have to be ordered apart for your size swaybar. Chas

Thats my problem too. Garage is 5 to 10 degC atm. Thats a nice clean radiator you got there. Cross flow is a good improvement too