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Thank you, thank you! I like a thinking man. I've just woken up so I can't wrap my mind around this just yet but I believe I understand what your saying. I'll re-read this when I get home from work. On another subject, yesterday I bought an Accel super stock coil from Advance Auto online with a coupon code for $25.99, $28.33 w/taxes, it's smaller than the original but besides the hocus pocus they claim it really smoothed out my idle and seems to crank sooner which is now instant instead of before which took 2 cranks. Small details are progressing nicely. Thanks again.

Shooting in the dark is your best shooting! You nailed my plumbing questions, thank you. I'm pretty sure all the components I removed are the cause of the long warm up but the trade off was worth every minute I have to putt around until it heats up. Here's a picture of what I want to do but I think it may be counter productive if I understand you correctly. Take the cap (circled in yellow) and cap off the tube from the accordion boot then run my valve cover hose to where the cap was (in red) doing away with that section of hose (in green). Would that keep my throttle body from smudging up or make it worse? When I rebuilt and cleaned everything the throttle body was black and oily-smudgy. I apologize for my explanations, they're about as clear as mud.

I was wondering if re-plumbing those hoses would do anything. It doesn't.

I have an early '77 that has the hose from the valve cover attaching to the accordion boot before the throttle body. It takes forever to warm up. I notice a lot of those hoses going to the throttle body beside the one coming from the air regulator. I have the '78 FSM and it shows valve cover to throttle body. I guess I'll try it the newer way and see what happens. Just asking opinions. Thanks.

Don't forget the hose end goes to a hose that connects to the pipe coming out of your block up front on the driver's side. You must have been driving that ZX Fred Flintstone style.

Jackpot!

I'm about to put on my dash cap and was going to ask if the clock problem with these cars is fixable at the clock or is it something deeper? I've got a 1/2" split above my clock and can get to the wiring pretty easy by making the split even larger (notice I didn't use "crack", giggidy) with little effort. I plan on refilling the splits with black silicone sealant before I put on the dash cover. Thanks for any advice.

I don't think I could take the anxiety of driving mine daily. I always wonder before I turn it off is it going to crank again? They're old. Buy a 10 year old Camry and a fixer upper Z car for the weekends. That's what I would tell a friend.

Those look great. What do you think your price per seat was? Tools and material?

The front pops up crazy after the motor's gone. On mine it's worn out struts.

Alright! Something Z related around my house. I hope I can go.

I have a friend that was welding on an exhaust system, car was on a lift, wearing safety glasses not a hood or even goggles. A hot spark got under his glasses and burned his eyelid. He had to go to a plastic surgeon after the swelling went down and he couldn't open his eye. The doctor explained the procedure to correct it. Said he would take some skin from his penis as it was pliable and soft like the eyelid. Then graft it over the burnt skin. My buddy asked if there would be any complications from all this and the doctor says "you may be ****-eyed for awhile".

Looking good! I see your keeping your rebuild book close by, I carried mine around for 2 months. It's all marked up with high-lighter ink and greasy hands. That knob on the leveler got in the way for me too. I bent it horizontally and used a socket on the other end. Keep up the good work, your doing something now.

Go ahead and buy a battery. You'll need one.

The day you crank it for the first time you'll be the happiest and the most anxious person in Georgia. "Layla, you've got me on my knees. Layla, I'm begging, darling please. Layla, darling won't you ease my worried mind."

I had an idea.

1 Afternoon. It's spray size is adjustable.

Maybe sale them to a hybrid z, a split window. They put Corvette style motors in Japanese cars why not Corvette glass style.

I bought an gravity fed airbrush spray gun from TCP Global Paint off E-bay for $20. Acrylic enamel, a pint did the bay and then some, car color. Worked good and no taping off everything. I could dial it down to the size of a drinking straw hole.

Blue you sly rascal, the fingering of the counter weight made a difference. I'll be moving it 4 gear teeth to the left this Saturday. Dadgum mechanic friends don't want to do things the right way. Thanks again.

Aren't you the one that bought Standard FJ707's? I got those and agree with you completely. It's like having a new car. And my gauge also bled down after awhile but I still get sprayed with gas taking off a fuel line. I took my gauge off and did away with the restrictive "T" I had made out of brass brake line fittings. Now it sits in my drawer of test equipment for when I might need it. I put a clear glass filter right before the fuel rail.

What about a coil wire cap? Just thinking out loud. Or the distributor end of an old plug wire?

It might just need some fluid. Redline MT90 at amazon.com. Or just don't go backwards.

That's something to remember because it hasn't happened on mine YET. Thanks for the post.

My '77 with MSA's 2.5 with Dynomax muffler hangs diagonally. It's the most out of the way position on my car.