siteunseen

Those hoses were changed from '77 to '78's. I rerouted mine to the '78's, it feeds the AAR with cleaner air if I remember right. Here's the way I ran mine after reading about that issue with the '77's.

It's a weird looking nut locking clip similar to this but the ends curve inwards more.

Reading about this I found that one of the caps would seal on a certain valve cover without an o-ring, it had an extra grove I believe? The newer valve cover was flat around the fill hole and needed the the o-ring. That sounds backwards now that I'm typing it. Does that mean the 2400 OHC valve cover needs the OIL cap or would the elephant cap work as well? Thanks for any input and Kats I'm sorry for the extra homework assignment. I'm not restoring or anything like that, just curious.

I've always heard it called a warming plate for the AAR, like said above. When you delete the EGR that has to go as well. The thermal vacuum switch has hoses going to the BPT then to the bottom of the throttle body. When you swap that over you'll want to plug that hose, I put a small bolt in mine, circled in yellow in my picture. Curious, did you buy Geoff's aka rossiz system?

There's a moose knuckle on that roof.

Great looking car, I hope you break someone's bank with that one.

Since I've been a member of this forum I've read the elephant cap was from winning an African Rally but now I see that that's wrong, thanks to @kats. After reading more maybe the oil was named after the Rally?

I must apologize, it was $300 to $400. There was one for $300 from someone at MSA and the others were around $350. According to Carl Beck, there was only about 10,000 that appeared before the automatic transmission cars came with the newer lettering. The oil caps were another amazingly hard to find part. Mine has the elephant but before that they just had "OIL"

If I remember correctly the thread a month ago about the 2400 covers were $400 to $500.

Put a ring on it!

No, no, it's the 240's body, interior and electronics that are so costly. Engine parts are still available at reasonable prices if you're not picky about original parts. I am still surprised at the available parts from Nissan dealerships. They used the L straight six from '70 through '84 Maximas. Zkars makes a great point, 19 year old girls won't like smelling like an exhaust pipe.

I'd buy 10 @ $150

240 parts are getting scarce and expensive plus they are a harsher ride because they are lighter but I never drive my 280, love the 240s but I daily drive a camry. It's easily replaceable if I wreck it. 240s, not so easy and much more money. If I had to pick a DD it would be a 280. My opinion only. And welcome to our club.

That's good news and will save you a lot of time plus now I know what that sticker says, I've never seen one before. The remote starter, 17mm and 14mm open end wrenches, and for one lock nut on mine I have to use a 17mm crow's foot socket, feeler gauges and you're set for a valve adjustment. Looky what I found!

If it doesn't have any pressure could you put a rubber plug in first then top off the hole with a JB Weld type product?

If you remove everything aren't you opening up entry spots for the glass beads to get in the tranny? Maybe it's just the housing you're blasting. Mine cleaned up like new with spray on foam oven cleaner then high pressure washer, hot water.

There's a 10mm bolt that tightens down on a offset "key" that holds mine in. Once that's removed I could twist mine out. You should replace the seal too, after the cable rest on the old seal it makes a worn spot. When I put mine back the worn spot didn't match back up and it leaked transmission fluid. That seal is still available from Nissan. I recently did this and can get you the part number if you need it. Seems like I paid a little less than $5 for one. Congratulations on your marriage!

It's the EGR tube that rotted mine out. The recall I read in the How To Restore book says BPT though. BPT is the flying saucer looking thing with two vacuum hoses on top. It's closer to the valve cover. The EGR mounts to the intake closer to the brake reservoirs. The male end of this tube screws into the hole under the EGR mount on the intake, 2nd picture. It's exhaust and it ate up my intake causing a vacuum leak that I couldn't find for nothing. I'm going to stop now, I feel like I might be confusing the issue with "alternate facts".

I can't remember ever having my wipers on but mine isn't a DD. I'll check the functionality next wash just in case.

Have you looked under the intake manifold at the EGR or BPT tube connect? Mine had rotted a big hole, golf ball size, into the aluminum intake. The recall vin#s are 350001 through 410516. Mine wasn't fixed and ran that way until it was parked by the PO. I wound up with the car and it's problem, put a new intake on there and got rid of the emissions stuff. If the recall work was done they were to put a sticker under the hood next to the emission information sticker. My '77 was what I've heard called a "transition year" car, the EGR and all that crap was added as well as more problems. Good luck!

If you haven't spent a small fortune already you might consider swapping over to carbs. Seems like quite a few have done it recently and are happy with their cars again. If I had to do my tail chasing over, my '77 would be a bigger 240. 8^)

That'll change if you ever do any house wiring.

Captain Obvious! Colonel Obvious! Major Burns! Henry! Hot Lips!