siteunseen

I didn't get it either but it was what it it wuzzz. I hate that phrase but sometimes it's true? I just told myself it sat lower in the the "pot" and went forward with my plan. Pull the shift rod and look for those little nicks or scratches. And leave everything off like Zed said until you figure it out. I drove mine for a hundred miles with no boot and could see the transmission turning and hear everything. Thinking back mine popped out of 5th and reverse when I let the clutch out. I went to my honey hole junkyard and got a spare shift rod to grind on first then when that worked I only had to barely grind the good one. You'll get it I'm sure. 8^)

Are y'all talking about shims or the inner and outer spring seats?

I left that metal limp behind mine, it's adjustable and adds some firmness.

The shift rod won't go far enough to completely engage the gears. I bet you if you pull it you'll see the nicks I've shown you. Put some paint or fingernail paint around the bottom, put it back in and go through the gears. You'll see the new scratches. Just a little grinding and recheck it. Don't take off too much but as long as your don't gorilla arm shift it will be fine. I'm speaking from expirence I promise.

I don't think I've seen one connected to the valve cover? Always the intake or balance tube. A picture would nice.

Trannies are mixed up in the head and the now the bathrooms.

Mine turns almost 2,500 rpms at 75 mph with a B type out of a '79 ZX 2+2, R180 differential. I thought I was getting the Borg Warner close ratio most ZXs have when I bought the motor and transmission together but the 2+2 uses the wide 5 speed. I was mad at first but it does fine for my light driving. Have you tried zcarsource.com again?

It's the PCV system. I've seen pictures where people held the pipe in with JB Weld. It has a ridge around it that should be up against the block, beat it in with a rubber hammer. Here's some info in this thread. If it keeps blowing out your valve is probably bad, not allowing air to pass through.

Thailand, where my brake lights and bumpers came from I do believe. They are nice as hell so who cares unless they come from Trump Towers. He's more into "Chinenuh", rhymes with vagina.

Wrap that with carpet and let the cat use it as a scratch pole, like the one beside the potted plant.

Does you matchbox have two connections, one on top and one to the side. I think that's the e12-93? or something like that.

If we're talking about the same thing, this stuff confuses me, my weights are stamped 8.5 so advance is 17 degrees and I have verified this with a full advance setting on my timing light. At 2,500 rpm my light shows 34 while the pointer and pulley are at zero. The numbers stamped on the body of my dizzy are the '79 specs on Mr Moore's spreadsheet. He was in an accident and lost his 240 so I don't know how involved he is anymore on this forum. Maybe he'll see you notification and respond? I've read on Blue's Tech Tips on recurving the dizzy. Maybe try and google that.

I bought from amazon.com I put in my vehicle as a '79 ZX and got the one for '79s. I have good luck apparently.

Would it not be easier to return it and get one for a '79 ZX?

$$$$$

That is AWESOME!

You can buy the potentiometer at Radio Shack for $5, that was what fixed mine and many others on here. I almost bought this Bosch but it doesn't have a vacuum port. https://www.summitracing.com/ga/parts/bch-0280160001/overview/?cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-bosch-automotive Here's the one that I found that may work, $269 http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic17b06/11-3073

There's not an adjustable FPR that works on our cars. I've read hours on that and even bought one just to see if it helped and it did not. They lose pressure. Airtex is the only one I read about that worked okay and it was like $249.

They have a flat side and a rounded side, the rounded side goes out against the cup washer, the flat side stays in the middle on both sides up against the frame. Those are hyperflex polyurethane I believe? "Not all bushings are made alike. Some can break T/C Rods. G-Machine on left and Hyperflex on right."

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/comprod/index.html

When I first bought my 280 I dropped the tank and coated it, waste of time as it wasn't rusty. The fix was adding a potentiometer in the CTS wires to the ECU. Mine would spit and sputter up to 2,500 RPMs then clear up and pull like it should. The way I figured that out was pinching the return line to the tank to build up higher fuel pressure making it richer, negating the lean signal to the ECU. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html Before you go through all the trouble put in a clear filter coming out of the tank before the the fuel pump, you can see rusty particles if they are in there. EDIT: the pic below is my 240's filter. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/g3filter/index.htm

You're right. My dumb self took mine out of an old pump and measured it and completely forgot about doing that. Here's the check valve Captain Obvious used.

Now we're talking! I think anybody that reads my post sees how immature I am. If I had an extra liver (an undamaged one) I would live forever.

If you pull the fuel line off the cold start valve and plug it with a bolt that should stop any fuel from leaking at that spot if it it is bad. I've read there's a lot of people that don't even run the CSV, I assume they all live in warmer climates or keep there cars in a garage where it stays warm for start up.