siteunseen

Here's that thread of mine http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/55457-5-speed-tranny-any-ideas/ The boots can hinder the shifter for sure. 8^)

I thought something looked odd with the webbing on there. It's not an N-42 but a N-47 with the EGR welded up. Nice! Looking back maybe it is an N-42? Anyways it looks good.

You may be able to get it to stay in gear by grinding the shifter a little, that's what fixed mine. When you take it out to replace the bushings look for nicks at the front and backside down at the bottom above the ball. A few people have had issue with that and a little grinding fixed there's too.

Did you get that from RossiZ? I'm thinking you did but don't remember too good. It looks really cool beside that black valve cover.

Google ACC auto carpets. Get the carpet you like part number then google that. They have an ebay store that's much cheaper than buying off their website. Most carpet kits for our classics is made by ACC. They are 30 minutes from my house. I could break in one night and get you and me new carpet but I'd have to charge for the risk.

Those filters are similar to the k&ns I ran on my gsxr bike. I'm 99% positive you can clean and re-oil them. Do those ebay ones come with that Cannon intake or is that for the pictures. I'm thinking it's included at $1,689 price but didn't read the description.

Yeah that would be best done next winter, enjoy it this summer. You may blow her up hearing that header screaming. Cheap walmart spray foam oven cleaner works good as does lacquer thinner cleaning the motor up in car. Simple Green with Scotch-Brite pads too. I bought a gallon of commercial de-greaser from a local chemical supply that worked great undiluted, make sure and wear some kind of rubber gloves though, if that stuff gets under your cuticles and finger nails it's like what I imagine bamboo felt like in the Vietnam warm.

A late April Fools joke? I sure hope so.

I still have them. How about $1,000? Tonight I'll look and see what jets and emulsion tube sizes they have.

Here's where I trimmed mine, the red circle. The other red circle is where my header touched the bellhousing. Had to grind that down a little to keep it from rattling. maybe your's won't hit there. I used tin snips to cut that with then went back and sanded the edges then VHT spray paint.

I say yes. If it's a 280 the shield will need trimming, I'll post a picture of what I did in the morning. They keep the heat off your PCV hose and the master cylinders for the brakes. The coated header from MSA is what I have and they do a remarkable job dissipating heat, fantastic headers IMHO. If it's a 240 they keep the heat away from the carbs, percolation or hot restart prevention.

Me too! He makes higher education look like what I'd expect. Guy's the Man.

I've never had any patience until these cars, now life is better.

I'm pretty sure they hit the O instead of the H.

When I set my floats like the dvd shows, upside down lid with .5", my glass filter was never full. Now that I figured out that way is wrong with the valves they supplied, it stays completely full. A Xerox copy with directions would've been nice.

Fussy??? My Mom's fussy, that paint looks great! If I remember right the ZXs had a similar color. It was a silver/grey/blue/green. I'll find a pic when I can use my laptop.

Vise-Grips worked good for me. I didnt think about using a mirror until I rounded one off. Good luck. Cliff

Read over this if you have time. Great write up with plenty of pictures thanks to Blue/240260280 http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/39674-77-280z-head-removal-step-by-step-photos/

You do the "at" symbol first. @grannyknot

Yes, without failing. Ran one on my EFI too, no leaks at 32psi. I recoated the tanks and wanted to see what was flowing through, no pink gas yet. I've never had a problem with those filters.

The ZTherapy DVD says pull them off, potential restriction. I have one of these before the fuel rail.

You could stick the little red straw off a WD-40 can down the overflow bung and see if you can slightly push down on the float. The float could be stuck? The barrel screen on the banjo bolt, where the fuel line is connected on top, could be clogged too. Here's a pretty good read talking about cars sitting for awhile.

Looks like the one that came with my 01/'72 when I bought it a few years ago. Owner info on the back of the front page, service shops on the back page.

What's the opposite of "stump broke"? Dig a hole?

Good article I've never read. I just think the float's tab would ride so much better on a ball than the little pins the ones today use. This is what I've imagined a visit to Captain Obvious would be like. "It turned out to be a house in an old Stoneham neighborhood. I went to the door and knocked. A large man with a machinist apron on greeted me and invited me in to the manufacturing shop set up in the basement of his house. He wanted to know what model of carburetor I needed a gross jet for. Since I was there I picked up one for the Quadrajet on my mother’s Pontiac as well as the Holley on my VW. He took the time to show me how his jigs were set up to manufacture the different Grose Jets. For motorcycles he used glass for the larger ball to keep the mass down and deal with the vibration better. He pulled two Grose Jets out of the drawers of his cabinets and sold me what I was looking for. I drove home enlightened to see what a Yankee inventor could produce out of the basement of his house and become famous for in an underground sort of way. Look up D & G Valve on the Internet, you can still find it. Amazing."