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siteunseen

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Everything posted by siteunseen

  1. Oh and mark the cable location on it's hold down clamp with a Sharpie or something so you'll be sure and get it back right.
  2. Unhook the cable and see if you can move it up and down. I'd think if it movs any it's in that flat metal bar Mark's talking about. It should move up and down about an inch with the choke cable undone, freely by hand.
  3. That happened to one of mine before. The nozzle was stuck. I had unhook everything and drop the nozzle then sand the brass down smooth. It was coated with a varnishy coating from sitting too long. Good eye Mark, hopefully.
  4. siteunseen replied to ynot1's topic in Help Me !!
    Get the short slave to hard line hose too. I think I got the slave cylinder and rubber hose for $20 maybe? amazon.com or rockauto.com, Beck Arnley is what I ended up getting. FYI
  5. siteunseen replied to ynot1's topic in Help Me !!
    Sounds like you need a new slave cylinder to me. Not a big deal and an inexpensive part. The hardest part is bleeding the air out.
  6. Cool job! That's better than a vaginacologist.
  7. Thank you! It's an E-31 with a .460 lift cam. Zama lama ding dong!
  8. I think they are Nissan Vitons. I'll find them, sorry I was excited.
  9. I called Schneider and the guy says they only get .190s now and the customer files them down to size. I asked about hardening and he says they are good throughout, not to worry. Then I asked my hillbilly question, can I grind them down with the side of my grinding wheel? He said that would be fine for the biggest part but to finish them off with a flat file. I may do all 12 myself? I have more time than $$$. Guy do you know what type valve stem seals Eilji used on your head? If they'll work with your cam they should be fine with mine, very similar profiles, and a heck of a lot easier than the metal banded Viton Ford ones I was planning on using. I'll have to drive mine down where it looks like your's just slide on like the OEs.
  10. If you could find those over hangs, use a piece of wood or pipe pointed down and put a jack under it. Put a little pressure on there then come back later and check it, then if it's not broken free more pressure. My '77 was a PITA but a '72 just lifted right off??? Start at the back, the head gasket won't be as squished down.
  11. Stiff putty knives helped mine break loose. I tapped a couple all the way around between the steel block and head gasket, not against the aluminium.
  12. Great looking work, amazing! Sorta (& I do mean sort of) makes me consider stopping my wicked ways and working on cars like you do. Something has to fill in the hours of my day besides what's doing it now, work-drink-eat-sleep, repeat.
  13. See!!! That's what I'll miss at zcon damn it.
  14. Yeah that's where I'd want some insurance that nut wouldn't back off. Interesting for sure.
  15. Here's one! Ah Zedyone, I'm gonna miss meeting you at zcon.
  16. Does kinda look like a castle! Minus the moat.
  17. I don't have one but I think it's called a castle nut? You should be able to find one at local auto parts in the HELP section for brake parts. Probably a common thread and the height wouldn't have to be too exact. Good luck.
  18. Looks good. I have bought enough stuff for mine I thought about creating an LLC and using all of it to lower my gross income. What's less than zero? Maybe Uncle IRiS would pay me?
  19. That's a neat story Phillip. Elvis wanted to be like James Dean and drive a Spyder. My Grandad went to Germany and all he got was a P-38.
  20. Out of stock at the moment but from all I've read if you talk with him directly, email I guess, if he has enough interested people he can make them up pretty quick. http://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/6146476
  21. Yes! That was BC time, "Before Connectivity".
  22. After reading around I'm not too concerned with them wearing down very fast, if at all. I think they're heat treated throughout but can't find anything definitive saying they are not case hardened. They also say that the lash pads today all come from Nissan? Schneider doesn't keep them anymore and MSA recommends .170s for my grind but they aren't open yet for me to call. Stay tuned... "Wikki D" says Don't get hung up on a specific size, as mentioned earlier in the thread: cutting down to correct thickness is very easy. Any machine shop with a magnetic deck and surface grinder can do this job a full set at a time...though facing them initially to get them close with a lathe or bridgeport would save time and stone face on the surface grinder.
  23. Lets see what @Lumens says. He has installed the same cam kit I have and may know. I thought if something was hardened steel it would be throughout? Schneider told me that .190s were all they had. I assumed he meant all the time but they could've been out of stock at that moment? Worth a phone call to see though. I'll report back Monday.
  24. Man that helps! Thank you. One more though. Install all 12 valves and the springs first? Then do one rocker at a time. Thanks I looked and now know the answer. I'm more astronaut than rocket scientist.
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