siteunseen

How about you drive it to a Datsun mechanic and ask for their help? You're not going to find a "mobile mechanic" for that old of a car. Find a Z club in Toronto and ask around. My guess is the stalks need to be replaced or rebuilt on the steering wheel but have you checked the fuses yet? Battery connections and that stuff? If it's the stalk switches there's no one better than this guy. https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ Good luck with your 240Z and download the FSM for that year. http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/11-240z/

Hard to believe that a valve will go through a valve seat and let it fall down on the piston's top. Sounds like that could have gone bad really fast if it weren't for your cautious ears and sleeping 1 year old. I think that's one of the top 5 crazy things I've heard on here, so far. Was the old brass/bronze seats? I had to change mine after Phillip pointed out how bad they were beaten down on an E31 I have. They were exhaust only, the intakes had been replaced with steel to match the bigger intake valves he had put in.

I like those grills better than the US market's. One day...

You might top off the power steering pump?

I'm going to my junkyard for S30Driver an A/C part and will look for you. Pulling the ends off a '77 is a pain, never done an earlier one. We'll see. Put 240 bumpers on there with your insurance money maybe? I run a thin bumper up front and a park bench in the rear. Looks okay to me knowing how difficult that rear is.

After 105 beers I tend to get a little obtuse. 8^)

Nice, as usual. Looks like Eliji uses bigger m10 manifold studs? I put them on the ends, #1 & #6, after reading Rebello puts them on his heads.

My only guess would be old tires? Maybe fill them to 35psi and see does that help. Nice looking car too, forgot to mention that earlier. Sounds like you got it cheap too and that's always good.

The clunk is usually the differential mount gone bad. They're steel and rubber and the rubber wears out so they move around while changing gears. The transmission leak could be a lot of things. Best thing to do is put fresh newspaper under the car after driving it, let it sit overnight and see where the drip is coming from. Could be the rear seal or where the speedo hooks up, the slave cylinder also. Click on "Blue is now 240260280 replied to a topic".

That be worth a flight for me to sit around with you two. Just think of the problems we could solve!

E88 is for carburetors and doesn't have the notch out for fuel injectors. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/12914-wtb-e88-efi-cylinder-head/

here's those measurements. If you ever need them I have these pictures in my attachment file on the forum. They are nice to have, you put wheels on them and can roll the motor under your bed when you have company.

My reason for saying this is a lot of people have plugged all the vent lines trying to get the gas smell out of their hatch. Another reason is they have plenty of "vents". Is it the 10mm one in this picture? If so I think you'll be okay but then you have the other end of the hose that went to it to deal with. It'll be #7 in this drawing and connects to the bottom of the evap tank in the hatch. If you can find the tank end of that hose stick a bolt or something inside it to seal it off. Those tanks may build up enough vapor to form some liquid that could drip out.

Yes those steel washers are original. They're for the inner and outer springs to sit on. I call them spring seats. My thinking is to keep the steel springs from tearing into the aluminium head? That old one was so low I think the rocker arm was hitting the sides of the retainer, not just the tip of the rocker into the lash pad. The different heights are amazing looking at the photos. I don't understand how they can be that much different and still have a good wipe pattern? EDIT: I've done it before so I tell you and maybe you won't. Put those steel washers down first. The valve seals won't fit over them.

Drones need parachutes of some type I believe. As soon as you hit a button on the remote it would deploy and fall a little slower onto your head.

@dutchzcarguy This is a good read on spray bars. The last page goes off the rails though, mostly because of me. Here's the one I was thinking of, a newer design. Here's the difference in between the early and later ones.

Does the exhaust leak around the manifold? '75s have square ports on the exhaust manifold, that maxima head is round. I'm almost positive the square will cover the round, hope so anyway, but the round will not cover the square? Could have that backwards though. You can get the bigger intake valves and seats put in that head. No worrying about hitting the block but you'll have to grind some of the chamber around the intakes, unshrouding I think they call it. A good cylinder head rebuilder could work that head into something very nice and peppy. Probably needs to be refreshed anyway.

See his last picture @Av8ferg Those wooden crates with wheels are great. I have the measurements if you get those motors.

Looks great Sir! Thank You, now I need another greasy motor to try your cleaning tips.

Buy a roll of gasket paper, you'll need it a couple of times especially on the spray bar's mounts. The paper that comes from the '70s is no good today. Even if they are there they'll be rotted and of no use. make new ones. H&D Construction.bmp

Here's that "template" I bought from amazon.com Here's a clean spray bar, using a drill to spin the oil pump. Best I can do on the timing marks for now Zed Head. When I get back home tonight I'll see if I can find a better close up.

this guy did something similar. Can't remember the details but he had a camaro motor he was gonna swap into a Miata I think. @djwarner

Use your nose hairs.

I've always been suspect of the oil pump and spindle being off. Everybody goes straight to that but actually its easy to time those on rebuild. I'm not saying that's NOT your problem but it's like blaming the bank for non sufficient funds. It's too easy in my opinion.

Look at zhome.com. They have a car registry by vin you can get pretty close with.