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Read the ad!! K&N Performance Air Filter, 73-74 240Z-260Z Description: This is a great upgrade to the stock air filter for late 240Z's, 260Z's, or any Z that is running the Hitachi (flat top) carburetors and the stock 73-74 housing. This filter measures 2 inches thick as shown above. Model Guide: Datsun 240Z, 260Z Code Guide: Datsun S30 Year Guide: 1973, 1974

Run your carbs up to 1,000 rpm. A lot easier to drive and more oil flowing plus you have A/C, right?

I apologize for not giving you the credit. You get a standing ovation for that work of art! I only wish it had worked. I linked the address bar instead of your post.

Now you have.

I forgot to put my oil slinger on my 280 when I rebuilt it 4 years ago. No problems at all. With the car running and looking at the belt from the alternators side does/did it look off center? I had to add a washer to the top mounting bolt to line mine up straight.

Seems like you've been down this road before. Did you ever correct the problem or just move on to another problem as usual?

Found this through google/images. Maybe you can figure it out by comparing yours? That Tom Monroe book is the best! ZX and Z oil pickup comparison. ZX is on the left and is a bit longer to clear the baffles in the AZCar cast oil pan.

In the morning when you first crank it, remove the radiator cap. Let the motor get up to temp. You should see coolant flowing across the radiator. It will burp some fluid out and then settle down. The coolant level should be at the bottom of the filler hole and moving constantly, even more when you rev the motor. I can assure you blocking off the flow through the intakes will not increase the coolant temp. My car and dozens of others have this done without problem. The '70 & '71s didn't have that coolant circuit at all. My bet is low coolant level and air in the system. You need a meat thermometer in the radiator while the car warms up. They're a couple of dollars here and available at grocery stores. You can prop them around the thermostat housing as well as the cylinder head for a true temperature reading. Your Mom probably has one in a kitchen drawer.

I couldn't be happier with that commutative property suggestion!

Russian hackers! That was a good informative post too. Damn jackwads.

And a Merry Christmas to us all! Please replace the fuel rail with rubber fuel hose. it's proven to help with percolation of fuel, as per Jeff G an automotive engineer with a race team that uses the 240Z.

Maybe it's not the original after all. It has clear plastic caps and it seems the OE were Tokico or Nabco with metal caps like my 280. No big deal, originality was lost long ago. The ones I'm seeing all look the exact same, priced from $45 to $100.

Have we met?

I wanted to be able to find this again so I've added a post. Great information to know. Thanks.

It's like the harder you pluck a guitar string the louder it is.

Ouch! That's gonna be a minor PITA. Put one of those thick Mustang ones in next.

Thanks! After seeing the prices and rarities of the LD crank I'd be better off sending my 2.8 to LA. Boobs are cool.

Thank you guys! It's the original master cylinder so rebuild or replace is in my future. It's not bad yet and I check the level before driving but it's curling the paint up underneath. I'll shove a rag under there for now. Thanks again, you all are the best. Cliff Zup, a few people won't like this but I'm here until the end.

I'm wanting something that pulls and is torquey too. A 2.8 block, 2.4 rods and which crank? Do you use the 2.8 or the 2.4? I have these parts and am ready to start a new project after doing the research. This will be my first step/question to find out if I have the parts required. Thank you for any help on this and another big ole thanks for the big ole boobies! They make my day (and sometimes night).

Rubber Rules! Good deal I think, best of luck.

I have fluid slowly seeping from where the master fluid reservoirs bolt up to the booster. I replaced the smaller booster a year or so ago and don't remember. Maybe it was sealant type gasket, silicone or something similar. It sat for a couple of months then I finally drove it only to find a huge oily spot on the floor. The front's bigger reservoir was empty but not the smaller one for the rear's. I put a mirror under there and it's wet coming down from the crack between the masters and the booster. Seems like something should be there? Thanks for any ideas/helpful comments. Cliff

Diseazed recognized it without the landscape edging spoiler!

Sounds like some doctors I use!

Pull these hoses off and stick a bolt inside them and retighten the clamp for a temporary test. Drive the car and see if it helps, won't cost you a dime and you should be able to do it in ten minutes. Then take the metal fuel rail off and replace with rubber fuel line like Jeff G said a month or two ago. This is your motor so there shouldn't be any confusion. Front hose coming off thermostat housing, Rear hose coming off the hardline that runs behind the head,