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Are SUs able to keep up with your cam? I have a similar profile I'm going to put on an E31 and just today asked what my Webers would be worth. I really like the SUs simplicity. Thanks again Guy, you're help is invaluable.

What you see is what you get. I can't stand pompous people, although my life is full of them, being full of themselves. I'm the first to point out my mistakes and the first to correct them. Southern boy and very proud to say that. Thank you for the compliment.

I used a 24" pipe wrench on mine and a crescent wrench on the square at the end of the threads. Laid it on the floor and stood on the handle, my bench vise wasn't working. It was lifting my my work bench. I had turned it the wrong way until it was too tight. Now I know one's reversed threaded.

These came with the first 240 I bought and resold. I'll never install them because I need to keep my driver's license and stay out of jail. They are the older ones and supposedly pulled off a wrecked 240 years ago. They have been dry of fuel for at least 5 years and would most likely need rebuilding. Weber Bologna, made in Italy. 40 DCOE 18. CANNON intake. Any help with their value would be appreciated. Thanks, Cliff.

A 240 and a jug of these!

Yes, I'm sure theres some crud in there. You should, if you haven't already, put a Fram G3 clear plastic $3 filter between the tank and the pump. That short hose is low pressure. There's a write up from Blue's Tech Tips with good pictures.

Thank you! I'll save that. Zed Head I hooked a newer modem/router combo the renters left in my house. Now getting a previous attachment, I have 46 pages, as soon as I click the whole page is downloaded. It's amazing how much faster the downloads are. Surf Board 6700. Sorry to waste a post in your thread Tool Man. I'll try to offer some help, ideas.

6,000th

Yes! It was Presidential.

Looks like a nice attempt at finding the leak, bad that it wasn't. There's a thing we know as the "yogurt cup test" from a very smart member with good common sense. You shove a cup into the accordian hose between the AFM and the throttle body. Pull the brake hose off and blow as hard as you can. I put my valve cover gasket on upside down, straight side to the passengers side: wrong, and when I blew into the hose my hair moved. You might try that and listen for the air.

I like my spoiler but what a PITA it was to reinstall after painting it. I suggest flat rubber washers between the spoiler and the hatch. Mine's not the one like your's with the flat space for emblems. And you're right, mine has two filled and painted holes showing, where the Datsun emblem went.

And I'm the Gangster of Love! Yes, welcome to the club. Good to hear a young man with an eye for a classic car.

I have no idea but I did find this from http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ The fuel pump control for the 75 - 77 N/A.When the engine is not running the flap in the AFM is closed and the fuel pump control switch in the AFM is OPEN. When the key is turned from "OFF" to "RUN" there is no continuity through the fuel pump switch in the AFM and the fuel pump should not run. When the key is turned to "START" the engine turns over AND the fuel pump relay closes which starts the fuel pump. As air is sucked past the flap in the AFM it opens and the FUEL PUMP contacts in the AFM close. When the engine starts the air flow through the AFM keeps the fuel pump running because the switch is closed. If the engine stops / stalls the flap in the AFM closes and the fuel pump control switch in the AFM opens thereby shutting off the fuel pump.

If you decide to remove all that stuff I can post up some pictures of mine. Instead of buying an early intake I did my n-47 like you have. Glad to do that if you need something.

Congratulations! Grannyknot Motor Corporation. GMC

Also I would park it somewhere that wouldn't cause any trouble getting coolant, like out in the dirt, no puddles for animals or leave a mess and do like Mr Overlord says in post 3. On a cool motor with no tight radiator hose from pressure, take the cap off and stick a meat thermometer down in it. It'll burp up a little but should smooth out after the thermostat opens. You should see a decent flowing over the top row of cores.

Seems to me that you have the belt too loose or too tight? or the wrong width belt and it's slipping on the water pump pulley. I know you don't want to but if you have the old belt I'd put it on and see if the problem is still present.

You may have bought a cheap thermostat? Did it start running hotter with the belt change or did you do all of this at the same time? Gotta run now but will be reading your thread. Best of luck finding the problem. 8^)

Fan clutch sounds okay but does it make a louder noise like a constant "whooshing" that stays loud? They can go bad in the opposite by constantly turning. They normally make noise at first then quiet down when the oil heats up. Try it looser as msa says but I've always ran mine tight. If you bought it from msa it should be the right belt. Some smarter guys/girls will jump in soon with other ideas. I get tunnel vision too bad.

That new belt may have ruined the water pump? Hopefully not but I've read where the tightness of the belt ruins the old bearings in the pump. Checking the fan clutch is a good suggestion. See how many rounds it'll turn by spinning one blade by hand. Shouldn't make a complete rotation if it's cool. It is oil filled and gets looser with heated up oil. If the bearings are bad in the pump you'll be able to hear something rattling or the blades scraping the inside of the housing. I shouldn't have mentioned that, sorry.

I have a 180 thermostat in mine. When it gets to that temp it opens and you'll see coolant moving in the radiator. After mine opens it drops down to 170-175.

Here's what I mean on twisting the belt. Grab this hub and try to turn it. You shouldn't be able to budge it.

The new belt should be tight. Only able to twist one fourth of the belt. It runs the water pump as well as the alternator.

You'd be better off using the choke lever mounts that Art Singer sales on ebay, $30-$40? They screw down on the transmission tunnel in front of the ashtray hole not the plastic console like the OE one in your 2nd picture. That's one of the best aftermarket Z parts out there in my opinion.