siteunseen

This was done by the previous owner of my '77. I don't think HE actually did it but most likely an auto glass business did.

Thank you Chickenman. I'll get those and replace.

I thought about the check valve when I replied about having a weak pump but he has an aftermarket pump. I guess the after market pumps have them too?

It's 920 and I believe it was only available in '70 and '71. Pretty rare color IMHO. http://www.zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/

My first thought on the flat pressure gauge is your pump is going bad. If it runs all the time it seems to me you'd have more time/use on it causing it to wear out sooner. Just thinking out loud, good luck.

...transmission fluid to come out of the speedo connection after topping off the transmission fluid? Thanks

Glad I could help.

I tried to find your old signature but didn't have any luck. I was hoping you might see this young man's thread.

Why do think I was working there??

When you're trying to crank it next time, have someone pinch the fuel line after the fuel filter. If it's soft you have a weak fuel supply, it should be almost solid feeling when under pressure. Here's some good information on just about everything pertaining to a 280. http://atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html

I don't know what you've read yet but these two helped me get a better understanding of the process. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm http://www.damonq.com/techsheets/red-kote.pdf If you'll make a plan of attack beforehand it'll really help, did for me on #2. Get some 5 gallon buckets and go ahead and mix the soda and water, have some empties to pour the dirty acid in, figure out how you want to hang the tank while draining it. The tanks have some holes around the edges, I used bungee cords. A leaf blower or good air gun will help dry it quick so you can coat it quicker. I used an old sending unit with everything cut of for sealing up that big hole and on the filler neck I used a rubber pipe plug, 2" I think. I see your clutch fork boot is torn. I bought one from my local Nissan dealership this past December, $8. They still have them available. That's the right part number in the picture below.

I sold Pittsburg paint for four or five years, running a small hardware and paint store. The industrial gloss oil we sold was the same paint as the exterior floor/deck paint. When someone wanted to paint an old deck or cement floor I would put cleaned and screened play sand for grip. It was extremely slippery when it was wet. If you can still find any, exterior gloss oil floor and deck enamel, Super White. Interior white oil always seemed to yellow over a few years where the exterior oil wouldn't. Guys that painted for a living always used the exterior oil inside. This was in the early 90s though, now a gallon of exterior oil would be $30 plus. I would also recommend a paint store, not a big box hardware supply, the guy at the paint store will now what you need. The guy at Home Depot will say "an enamel will work". Enamel is a finish not a paint type.

You guys deserve those trophies!

You might use a wooden handle through the sending unit hole to push the dent back out. Sorta like what "Dent Doctors" do with metal rods. They slowly massage the dent out. Cleaning and coating the tank is an easy PITA job. It's an all day job getting ready for it but when you're prepped and ready it only takes 30 minutes, a hurried 30 minutes too. The tank can get flash rust in 10 minutes! You can replace all the vent hoses too, $60 from O'Reillys. The tank cleaning stuff and a quart of red kote was $50. $10 gallon of acid, $10 quart of acetone and $30 for the red kote. Oh and a couple of dollars of baking soda. You'll need a few empty five gallon buckets too.

When I get mine set at .55" I put the fuel inlet tube on the lid in my mouth and blow/suck to make sure the float valves are working to allow air in or shut off so air cannot blow through. Oh yea, you have to turn them upside down and move the float with a finger. Pin in, "none shall pass". 8^)

Great description!

I'll tell you a little secret I'd hoped not to admit to, got in a hurry's what I tell myself, but when I put my carbs back on I didn't get the connecting rods flats in the right order. it shot up to three thousand as soon as i cranked it. Hope that makes sense.

Sticking them to the lids made getting the lids on and off easier for me plus they won't tear as quick. They last a little longer too, unlike a wine bottle's cork.

My stock 240 tach works great with the ZX distributor. The fonts are so different, I'd think the ZX one will stick out like a sore thumb. My $.02 worth.

Plus one on what Rossi says above. And glue the cork gasket onto the lids of the float bowl RIGHT BEFORE TIGHTENING IT DOWN (sorry for the caps, I'm not too good with my phone). I put RTV on mine right off the bat, sat there maybe 10 minutes and had to reapply after removing the dried up RTV. 8^(

Instead of cans, have your friends tie all the old parts onto the Z. A couple of distributors and the old radiator would be funny. 8^)

They say there's not enough digits in a Zs VIN# and starting with an H is wrong. They've put mine down as starting with a 4. A 4 looks just like an H.

It's all "yuckity, yuck yuck". It works great on custom service calls.

I want to go! Your maps are fun. 8^)

When you/it does this the next time, feel all the fuses and the fusible links to see if any are a little warm. I had a brand new alternator that was bad and killed all my gauges through the ignition. I read that it was was back feeding? through the ignition. It did smoke the IGN fuse though. A lot of the lights you mentioned are powered through the combo light switch on the right side of the steering wheel. Do you have the green background lights on the speedo and tach?