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Congratulations, looks good. If you want a new sending unit and O-ring Nissan still has them. Sender #25060-E4100, $42. O-ring #17342-18000, $1.50. I had a hard time with the nail head connectors and ended up using some female spade terminals then slathered the whole thing with liquid electrical tape. Worked out good too.

I'll take that warning as a compliment. Thank you!

Wow, that's only $200ish a year, peanuts. Thank you Guy, I'm going to follow up on this.

That be great, I'd like to see how they make that work. My guess is they just drill a straight line all the way through then 2 bigger holes at the cam towers to feed it and then 12 smaller ones. Where the originals drop down closer to the cam, that one shoots from the same height as the tower's feed hole. You may need to install a high volume oil pump? Something similar to the fuel rail I made. Maybe we can make our own some day?

Out of curiosity, what's the yearly price of Hagerty on a $20,000 agreed value car? After reading/seeing this I'm a little nervous. I am single and have a bunch of cars so my Agent has me set up with an umbrella type policy where I have collision with uninsured motorist on one car, then the rest are just the basic state required insurance. I've always been a little leary of the value they would give me for the nicest 240, I've never had them appraised.

My first guess would be a loose belt, not super loose but loose enough to slip when you're off idle. I've always tightened mine until they will twist very little. Think of the top flat part being at 12 o'clock and then twisting it to 3 o'clock. That's what I've always done. Try testing it at the alternator, you may have corroded connections.

Looks fantastic! When you say choke plate are you talking about the one Art Singer makes? That's a good investment for long term and no car show judge will ever know. I paid $2K for the whole car and now to find out the radios are selling for $1,000 is unbelievable.

The N42 I found at a machine shop that had been abandoned had been swapped to the oiler cam. I bought it for the cost of the work the shop had done, $250. It's on my 280.

I've gotten myself a project that I'm regretting already, a Sentra that's been sitting under a tree for three or four years. The HVAC system was full of leaves/pine straw, filled up my 6 gallon shop vac. So I go to my storage building to get my freon gauges to add some 134a and low and behold I found 1 newer style bar and two early ones. I had completely forgot about them. I was going to talk to you about selling it. I really didn't want to so knowing that you have one now has made my morning. I looked at that JDM site you referred to, that's some really nice stuff but my card doesn't swipe that easy. You have an eager client and I'm glad, for you.

Something you did, maybe the emblems or seats, it's hard to keep up but I remember Blue saying "keep 'em coming" and you have.

Same exact thing happened to me. After the 20 minute run-in I rechecked mine, I don't remember but just about all of them were way too tight. I had set mine prior also using cold measurements. I just freshened up the OE E88, no new metal. I don't understand it but at the 200 mile oil change mine were all mostly still in adjustment. Maybe the cam tower bolts getting tighter after the heat introduced at start up???

I had one plus an oiler cam on a 9/'76 N47. Jeff G also has one of these transition heads. At $60 I'm tempted to head out to the mosquito infested junkyard nearby and pull some valve covers, if I do I'll send you a PM Steve. I might even go today? need to see what the weather going to do first, lots of rain in the area. EDIT: Can't make it today. After a few cups of coffee I remember the things I've committed to already.

Why, did something come up? Ha!

BFH? Biggest fu__king hammer?

The Anchors were $5 or less. Beck Arnley, around $18 IIRC. I bought up my parts beforehand and in hindsight I realized that's not a part to skimp on, really there's nothing except maybe start up oil if you use the same head. I'll hopefully never have touch those again.

You should have got the #1 classic! Red Bird shines like a new nickle. Thank you for thinking of me but I'm not into the road map look. What is that, a chandelier under those ta tas?

I replaced the transmission insulator too. They're available from nissan dealerships still. P/N 11320-N3000, $75

Whatever you decide to do, shoot the newly exposed raw metal with some spray paint to prevent future rust on the backside.

I thought about that too and decided it was more for orientation purposes. With the transmission mount added into the overall stability of the motor you would probably be okay doing that. But having what little bit of peg I had left I was able to get the mounts flat on their mating mounts. That centered bolt may need some help keeping it straight up and down was my thinking.

You are very welcome, glad I could pass along a problem's solution as you've discovered above. One size does not fit all.

The Anchor brand also had the nuts welded on already.

Yes, the peg is what I filed down. The ones I have didn't require too much material be removed.

I just went through this too! Bought some and found that then bought another set, same thing. I ended up using a modified Beck Arnley set. I wish I'd taken a picture for you but what I did was take a flat file to the circle. I filed it and checked, filed more checked more until it finally sat flat. The best way I can describe it would be make a D shape out of the O. Once you get the it all bolted up and the weight of the motor on there, there won't be any movement. I've checked mine time and time again during the break-in, I've got about 500 miles on there now and all is good. Oh yeah, use the thickness? side of the file and put the mounts in a bench vise. My file was about 1/4" thick and that's about the same as the dimple. One more oh yeah. Those cheap a** "Anchor" brand are trash, the rubber doesn't even line up with the motor mounts. The Beck Arnley's were the best I could find on my budget.