siteunseen

That would make for one bored and unhappy Captain O. I know he likes the challenge. The beer taste better!

Thank you, same wishes for you and your family. I always look forward to your post. You bought your Z brand new and still have a deep passion for these cars. That means a lot to me and for the other owners of these cars. Here's my local forecast through the weekend. I will have a hard time working on the heater core wile it's 75 degrees Christmas day.

You mean we're supposed to hide it? I've been going about this the wrong way, I need to apologize for my remarks over the last 6 years.

Here's another how to from JeffG, he showed me. The PO probably didn't tighten the 17mm locknut on the stud. If you don't find it, it is probably in the oil pan. Could've bounced to the front hole where the timing chain is. Here's some individual ones for $7.50. I don't know the stock size but after looking at this I assume it's .150"? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-2041A https://zcardepot.com/engine/cylinder-head?page=2

I've done it but it's easier to turn the cam. It has some flats toward the rear for a big set of vise-grips. Or put it in high gear and roll the car. You always want to turn it clockwise from the front, keeps the timing chain tight. I had a lash pad come off too. It's easy to fix and somebody would probably give you one but I'll bet you find it.

That's why I want to get the heater hoses back in, so I can tie all that in together and get it back to stock configuration.

People say it creates hot spots on the head not flowing out the back fitting. I have never had a working heater core in a 240, two I owned were bypassed without problems. Mine is plugged where that 45 elbow is coming out of the head.

That sounds like the evil coolant temp sensor. Me and about half the 280 owners here have down the fix. Mine spit a sputtered until 2,500 RPM then it would pull like normal. Here's a link to the fix, cost me $5 from Radio Shack. And a link to one the most helpful pages ever for Zs, more so 280s but now he has gotten into 240s and we're all waiting on that "Tech Tip" page. Thanks @Blue and all your atlanticzcar.com buddies. Coolant sensor fix, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html The Full Monty, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/

These are the ones I have, Centrics. You can't see them too well in this picture but they look really good through the spokes. So much so that I want the rears disc conversion from zcardepot.com. You can see those ugly arse drums though!

I'm thinking more simple, something like these. And put it in an extra hose I'll run. Something like this.

Buddy can't drive!! He's a drunkard, I'm the one that does the driving.

I'm a possible. One of the best times in my life was hanging out with Z buddies in Memphis. Southwest from BHM though! Damn speeding ticket cost me a thousand in the long run.

There may be some pressure with this project. I think he can keep a level flow of good ideas though.

I agree. You've found your car and it looks good. Welcome to the forum. Tons of knowledge here when you get stumped.

Try zcarsource.com

Thanks but no thanks. If it leaks, it's over. I'll run the hoses through the firewall to look normal then put in a copper or brass 90 connecting them beside the valve on the passenger's side floorboard. I do need to get rid of those to holes in the firewall and reconnect all that to the cylinder head. I have that all plugged off now and I believe it will run cooler coming off the rear of the head to the hose under the spark plugs. 2 months a year it's cold enough for heat and it's garaged so no frost on the windshield. I'm pretty sure my water kock valve was leaking when I bought the car so hopefully it will fix right up for a year or two.

A silver colored paint pen worked good on "DATSUN" in the middle of the horn pad for me. Thanks again @psdenno

I live in the North. Under 50 & I stay inside eating chili and quietly (sometimes) farting.

Thanks to Leon I bought a stock clutch instead of the high dollar Centerforce. Mine's easy to drive once I get out of the garage and up my driveway, that's all it takes to get the feel. I asked about what clutch with my Tilton aluminum flywheel in a thread I started. Wise man Leon said "stock unless you like wasting money".

I have them on my 240. Go to amazon.com and put your car info in, it'll tell you which ones you need. I can't say they're any better for street use but they sure look good through my wheels. I can post a pic when I get home. I used some Wagner ceramic pads. Good price and no squeal.

Looks promising. I wanted ask you if you've read or seen someone putting a switchable valve in the engine bay that would bypass the core until cold weather? I'm almost positive I read where somebody did that in the past. I'm not using my laptop at the moment or I could search around. Any thoughts or have you heard of this? I'm pretty sure it was a 240 because those allow some hot air releasing in the cabin when you don't need any. Maybe it was an A/C thread?

I'm a little worried about those lousy cork-soakers tendency to leak. I've already bought the parts so I'll give it a shought but if it leaks, I'm done with it.

Nice looking interior dmoralesbello. I have a ZX short shift rod I used when I switched transmissions, 4sp to a 5sp in my 240. I hated that thing's position but I liked the way it popped back to the neutral position when I moved it out of gear. I may try what you've done someday, looks like something I might could do. Wheee here's a good read if you haven't already, http://www.zcarz.us/TechnicalInformationPageTransmission.htm

I'm getting ready to replace the hoses and "**** water" valve on my 240's heater core. I'm going to pressure test it somehow before I go to all the trouble of installing new parts. My question is, does the heater core build up as much pressure as the radiator after I shut the car down? I know the radiator cap will blow off if I loosen it while hot. I'm on the fence about hooking it back up knowing there's a high pressure, high temp bomb behind my radio. Thanks for any help.

Great SS bolt kit! I recently used the complete engine kit and will again, well worth $100.