siteunseen

This is my local newspaper.

Here's a TECHNICAL ARTICLE that I found. Looks pretty thorough too. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/20038-fuel-injection-to-su-carb-swap/ If you have the n-47 head that came on the '78, the fuel pump sounds like the hardest part.

EDIT: I don't know which you need. '77 & '78s have round exhaust ports but ive always read the square port for carbeurators will work for the round ones. The EFI gasket has notches up top for the injector tips. There's a couple of guys that have done the switch recently that would help you out. Try searching for a thread "SUs on 280" I think.

Tom Monroe's book is a gold mine of information.

I used a high zinc but inexpensive Quaker State Defy 10-30 for the first 2 changes now it's on VR-1 10-30. Walmart has their version of the QS Defy but the real deal was just a couple of extra bucks. I kept mine under 2,500 rpm but did a lot of downhill engine breaks to suck the rings to the walls for the first 200 miles. Changed oil and filter, cut the filter open and drain the oil through paper towels looking for metal shavings. Everything looked good so I ran it up and down, 4,000rpm max. After 1,000 miles, drove it like I borrowed it from an ex-wife.

Sorry, I am talking about after the fuel pump for the "high pressure (high dollar) hose". Coming out of the tank is 3/8". If you are going to drain the tank this is a "must read". http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm In this pic you can see a lot: Metal sheet that protects the gas lines from road debris Fuel hose to motor via Fram filter Disolved hose particles in Fram G3 filter 10mm or 3/8" fuel hose Fuel return line Vent Hose to carbon canister and backflow valve passenger side fuel tank strap with 14mm nut

It's a Romanelli GT " Vehicle display floor, Montreal International Auto Salon at Place Bonaventure, January 1970, the show featured more than 300 cars including such Canadian-built rarities as the Romanelli GT, a V12-powered sports car built by Montreal native, Francesco Romanelli " http://www.romoto.com/gt.html

It pulled me through working by myself. Good confidence booster to SEE what can be done.

Autozone should have the hose and clamps, if you're talking about the fuel injection hose, Advance has them. 5/16" High Pressure Fuel Injection Hose and packs of high pressure hose clamps.

I didn't have a B enough FH and limited swinging space as my dent was closer to the firewall so I used an old bowling ball, worked pretty good too.

That looks really good. Your initial start-up will make some smoke from the new paint, it scared me pretty good when I first fired mine, so be ready for that.

I set mine even all the way around but can't remember the size of the gap. Here's what I read, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html

What about a new cap and button? I sold a D21 pickup for cheap. And all it was was the wore out cap was jumping fire. $10 cost me a fine running truck, damn it, still hurts.

Are you wanting a daily type for theft prevention? Or for fire prevention in case of racing crash? My 240 has a OE mechanical fuel pump so it's not possible with that. When I leave mine overnight somewhere unfamiliar I pull the coil wire off or the small wire on the starter. I'm sure there's more ways someone could recommend. Good luck with your project and will be reading the replies. I'd like something that could be activated from the cabin.

I get the joke Blue. A bikini car wash isn't about clean cars.

Free popcorn is all I remember.

I remember when my combo switch was giving troubles on my '77. If I remember right it was the headlight upgrade that he needed the 280 style plugs to work with his 240 harness. You sent him those and he made the harness. Let us know how much brighter they are after tonight.

Is that 110 Persimmons? It has the same color change in photos as mine did, one picture looked red the next orange. Looks great whatever color it is, spoiler too!

I found Hardway's DIY thread.

Welcome to the club! I wish I had the ones I ruined in my teens and early 20s, they were little race cars to me. Cheap and plentiful back then but no more.

@madkaw is doing something similar. He may shed some knowledge he's picked up?

Those look so good and reminded me of Hardway's thread on his restoration of seats. Try Google of "240z seats Hardway classiczcars.com". He bought the covers off ebay I believe and some "hog nose clips" if I remember right. @Hardway

I used a bunch of towels, folded and stacked to the right height on my Z when the seats were out. Other cars that aren't so low I've used those square plastic milk crates I stole off the loading dock at my grocery store. An upside down bucket, pillows, anything to drive mine. 8^)

Another thing I thought may be causing your high rpms, the throttle linkage. You could unhook coming out of driver's side firewall on that plastic marble and see what happens. It may be the linkage binding?

I would remove the dashpot, and unplug the bcdd and cold start injector. Then make sure the throttle blade is closing as well as the aar. Hook up a vacuum gauge and see what it's pulling, 17 hg is normal. Good luck and happy hunting. 8^)