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My machinists got me Hasting's for my 83mm 2.4. Chrome faced just like the OEMs. They do require a special hone and from all I read they are pretty much seated after the 20 minute run in at first start up. I like them and they weren't $200. More like $50 Car runs great, still haven't done a compression check after a year of driving though but I know they're good from plug readings about once a month. I think these would be for flat topped pistons. 1981-83 2.8 Litre 86.00mm 3.386 6 2C6142 6142 6 - 1.5mm 6 - 2.0mm 2753cc Eng. 280ZX, L28E, w/o Turbo 6 - 4.0mm They're $80 from Perfect Engine, http://www.perfectengine.com/Hastings_2C6142_Piston_Ring_Set_p/has-2c6142.htm

My favorite, "The reason I talk to myself is because I’m the only one whose answers I accept."

What do other people think of tapping their brake lights when someone is on your bumper? My uncle did that and my parents didn't want me in the car with him driving. Early '80s too, he was just being a dork.

Hell yeah, $500. The carbs are worth $300! Drink a few more and d*** with them, buy that little baby.

I promise you'll pat yourself on the back after seeing that bracket. The instructions are kinda vague but if you'll read some threads on installing it you'll be more confident on the position. The first one I did was too far back, had to go towards the radio about a half of an inch to get full choke action. Another thing, route the choke light switch wires where they won't get friction from the handle. I made that mistake too but luckily figured it out before wearing the insulation off the wires.

My unpainted '72 has black rods but body color hinges.

Yes! That's the time to get on it, doggone it.

Would it go 60 miles before you changed the fuel filter? Mine would make it around the block a couple of times then die. I could pull the supply side hose off the filter and blow into there until I heard bubbling in the tank. Cranked right up and drove home. Drove me crazy. Ended up being a cruddy fuel tank. Do you have a clear filter right out of the tank? $3 for a Fram G2 @ walmart. Easy way to see if you need to clean the tank.

Driving now is like playing chess, you're always looking ahead. In these old Zs it's like playing chess with irreplaceable pieces.

Hey CantechZ you may be able to help a guy out on PCV hose. Difference between '70 & '72. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/58451-pcv-hose-question/?tab=comments#comment-529523

I used it on my console where the choke mount had cracked it. It was much stiffer and thick compared to the inner fenders. Thanks for the heads up, I won't mention that's again as a possible bond. Cliff

Mine are torn and loose but it doesn't affect my chokes. What you REALLY need is the choke handle mounted to the sheet metal on the trans tunnel. Best $30 you'll spend. No more cracked console and it lets you remove the console without fooling with the choke. I haven't had my console in for over a year now, choke lever is firmly in place and works great. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/49138-choke-lever-mount-broken-under-console/

I think this would work too. fiberglass cloth and ABS Cement

I said it backwards! Read down about a quarter page for transmissions. http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/

All I can think of is the speedometer gear. Seems like the 4speed is white and fewer teeth. The 5speed is yellow with more teeth. Swap those and your speedometer will stay close to true.

I'm using that clutch kit on both of my Zs. The 280 I swapped out the throwout bearing myself. It whines when I'm not depressing the clutch pedal. On the other car I had the bearing pressed on the collar. It's way quieter and i gave the guy $5 or $10 to press it on. I remember now about those buttons on the friction plate. If there under a certain depth they reccomend replacing. I have a caliper that a small metal scale comes out off for measuring depth.

Try "240zrubberparts.com" or something like that. The guy is a member on here, super nice too. He reproduces NLA parts.

The Exedy clutch kit is a $100. I personally would not go through all that trouble and not replace everything, you know "while I'm there" kinda thing. $110, it went up. https://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-06009-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5D7TE/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Nissan|67&Model=280Z|874&Year=1975|1975&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive

It may be the PCV valve location. On my '72 it's in the center of the balance tube between the carbs. Zcardepot list the same hose from '70 through '74? https://zcardepot.com/crankcase-pcv-vent-hose-oem-70-74.html

If it were mine I would call Schneider or Delta cams. Tell them what you have then what you're wanting. I've always read that EFI does not do well with an aggressive regrind. I'm speaking of the original Bosch system. I know forum member Madkaw has some type of high performance fuel injection and runs a cut down high performance cam. I would call and talk to Datsun Spirit or Rebello Racing. They KNOW for sure. I'm repeating what I've read. Good luck.

A week ago, $2.04. Today $2.34.

"Unless they make more money claiming shortages". Me thinks you are correct Sir! We have a Colonial pipeline tank farm in Birmingham, right down the road from my area. We have pretty cheap fuel prices in North Alabama. When you all go to the winter mix what is it lacking? If you get a higher octane does that even it out? Or is there more than 10% ethanol? Thanks. Cliff

Hey man. Can I put the carb back on? I left it off and the spacer if you need any sort of measurement. Let us know how the phenolic spacers are coming. Cliff

Another thing to consider is the oil delivery to the cam lobes. My 9-'76 has an oiler cam, one with holes in the cam lobes the oil comes out of. It has an N47 cylinder head. If you have a '75 or '76 with the N42 head it'll have a oil spray bar like the 240 cam would need.

I know when I bought my aftermarket cam they specifically asked whether it was carbed of EFI. Said the "lobe separation was different between the two. This is the one I bought for carburetors. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-2003 “The lobe separation angle is the angle in camshaft degrees between the maximum lift points, or centerlines, of the intake and exhaust lobes,” says Eric Bolander of Erson Cams. “It affects the amount of valve overlap; that is the brief period of time when both the intake and exhaust valves are open.”Dec 29, 2015