Captain Obvious

Thanks Zed Head. Forgot to mention that I didn't see this thread earlier because, like you, I don't log into the site unless I have something to say. I typically browse without being logged in, and if I see something that I want to talk about, I'll log in. But only then. Why? Because I can browse whenever and from wherever I am. Public networks, open hotel wifi, friends devices if I'm not home. Faster, safer, easier. Pop in real quick just to see what's going on in the ten seconds when the boss isn't looking at my screen. I suspect many of the members do the same thing. Since so much of the classic Z's are linked to classic Owners, I'm pretty sure there is a large proportion that do the same thing. So any behavior that is different between being logged in and not logged in will be lost on me until I happen to log in.

And if you get totally convinced it's a needle problem and can't find something stock the fits the bill, let me know. I've cut a few custom needles.

Well first two things I would do would be to A) pull the needles to see what number they are, and B) try a thicker weight oil. Paltech probably reused the original N-27 needles, or put in SM needles (because that's what many other people do). Pull em to see what you have? I'm not normally a fan of the SM's but with the number's your seeing, it might be just the thing. The SM's run leaner at idle and richer towards the top. And for the oil, I've gone up as far as 20W-50 in one cer I've messed with. In theory, it won't do anything for steady state, but should help for hard acceleration and throttle blips.

So there is that "change layout views" switch below the content option. I don't know what the stuff in there does, but I'm gonna mess around when I have the brain power, but I don't want to go changing a whole bunch of stuff at the same time. If I do that, I won't know what each option does. Is there an option buried in there that says "I have zero need for: dark mode featured content whether a post was made an hour ago, or two hours ago focused content download categories Just show me the most recent posts in reverse chronological order regardless of what sub-forum they are in, and I (with real intelligence, not artificial intelligence) will decide which of those I will open and read"? Oh, and when I do open something, it would be really nice to have a clear unmistakable delineation contrast between different posts in the thread, and a clear unmistakable delineation contrast between quoted content and current content. I don't know if it's just me, but I have never, or ever will, had my significant other bothered by the light because I'm poking around on the forum at night in bed. I'll gladly pass on dark mode if I can use the development cycles for features that I'll use. I really like this place, the people, and the content revolving around our shared passion. I just want it to be clean and simple to use. I'm old and don't like change. 😵‍💫 I have no idea what that emoji is going to look like for the rest of you guys, but to me it looks like a smiley with some stars next to it.

I just changed my account settings to take me to the most recent. I haven't done much clicking around yet, but it seems that now it takes me to the end of the thread (like I usually want). The option to choose between beginning or end is gone, but at this point, I greatly prefer end over beginning. (So if beginning option is gone, I'll get over it.) Was this an option with previous versions of the forum? I never did a lot of clicking around before either, but I don't remember seeing anything like that.

The only thing I'm having trouble managing is getting to the end (most recent post portion) of the thread. All of the tricks that have been mentioned so far are ineffective for me. They work intermittent, if at all. I'm really having trouble navigating... What happened to the thread where we were discussing the site functionality? I can't find it and I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong.

I'm no carb expert, but I don't think a small change in float level is going to have much of an effect on the numbers. Are you sure your dampers are damping? What oil are you running in the dampers? Maybe try something thicker?

Right. The left side has provisions for the "key in slot" buzzer, while the right side does not. That said, I think you could probably use the left side on the right and clip that unused wire off. Haven't looked at the diagram, but confident that would work.

Exactly!! I've had the same discussions here. Not that it'll ever happen, but...

@Patcon, Did you turn up a good source for a suitable stainless replacement? I haven't looked, but if you've already done the work, I shouldn't have to.

Awesome. Let's hope this is the end of it and it's smooth sailing from this point forward!! Good work!

Nothing dramatic. Run it with the system a little under filled* for a couple minutes with the radiator cap off. Then top it off, fill up the overflow tank to "F", and put the cap on. Any remaining air should (in theory) work it's way out of the system over the next couple heat/cool cycles. I've not found the Z to be one of those cars that really needs a complicated burping process. * The reason for the underfill is if there is a big air bubble in there somewhere it will expand much more than the liquid coolant will. And if the system is full to the top, it'lcould belch out the top of the radiator.

Yeah, I assume the mention about the oil pressure gauge by Mike was simply due to the fact that with the dash out, you wouldn't know if you had an oil pressure issue or not. But if you didn't have any sort of oil pressure issue beforehand and the only reason you were messing around with the dash was to make it easier to get to the HVAC system, then I believe the concern is unnecessary. Glad to hear it worked out so far. Remember that it may take some time for the whole coolant system to come up to pressure. Oh, and I'd approve of a picture of you driving the car without a dash installed. Slow enough to guarantee you weren't speeding of course, since you don't have a speedometer. Hahaha!

@kats might have some suggestions?

There have been reports of the engine not running if the tach resistor is removed, but I have not verified that behavior. Seems unlikely to me. But in any event, having the dash removed would have the same effect as removing the tach resistor. I can't see any reason it wouldn't run. None of the EFI stuff goes through the dash harness. And from Mike's list above... You obviously won't have an oil pressure gauge.

My 280 starts smoother and easier than that. Even when cold and without a CSV. And if I prime the fuel system first, it starts even easier.

Glad to help. And as I continue to work through stuff here, I'll keep the documented updated if I find anything else that needs attention.

Here's the latest wiring diagram. I changed the wire color leading to the rear tail light assembly. At the hazard switch and the combination switch, the rear brakes/turns use a W/B and W/R pair, but somewhere inside the harness, they change to G/B and G/R pair by the time they get to the rear of the car. I also changed the portrayal of the rear light assemblies to show the bulbs inside. Note that in later 240's they changed one of the dual filament lamps in the back to a single filament. The car I'm working on is mid 1970 and I've got two dual filament bulbs on each side in the rear. <V6.0> _obvious 240Z Wiring Diagram 6.0.pdf

Thanks for the fog light pics. So my "F" switch clearly is just something that a PO stuck in there and I'll never know the intent. I'll pull it and plug the hole.

Assuming you could find a suitable stainless, I think it would work just fine. I think the rust you often see on them comes from the non-stainless parts that come into contact with the shims, not the shims themselves. In other words, I don't think the shims are rusted at all... I think that rust is just mechanically transferred onto them by rubbing against other rusty parts. @Patcon, are the shims magnetic?

Glad you got it worked out. Perfect timing. I'll be posting a new version with the changes to the rear lights soon. You can plot out the new one then.

Sendcutsend has .030 thick stainless. That's the thinnest they list. @Patcon, what's the thickness of those anti-squeal shims?

I took a peek behind the dash today and there isn't anything hooked up to the "F" switch and my blue tape Easter Egg is still intact and unwrapped. I did make another discovery though while I was back there as well... The wire colors for the rear rear taillights needs work. There are some errors on the diagram.

Cool. Sounds like good progress. So how's the lean running thing? Is that still gone?

Wow! No kidding you've been busy!!