Captain Obvious

Still can't shake the old Alfas, huh? First generation Spider. The Giulietta Spider. Before the "Duetto". Before the "Graduate".

I third the motion. I don't know how much moderation is performed behind the scenes, but I suspect there's not much. "Refreshingly civil." I like that too. "Welcome to Classic Z. We strive to be refreshingly civil."

I agree. This is a cool thread. I'm not sure if I've got any pics of my first Z either, but I'm going to look. If anything, I might have some from after "The Accident". :dead: hr369, Looks like something from The Mod Squad!

What he said!! Well, I might not spend as much time on the forum as he does, but other than that... What he said!! Ummm... On edit, I guess I've got a hard time justifying that when I've got three times his post count, right? :stupid:

I'm a little confused here... Who actually owns this car? You sure seem emotionally attached at this point! :laugh:

Cool. Good luck with it and here's hoping everything works out as intended!

Wow... What are the chances?? The window for that kind of damage is like what... inch and a half wide? More than that and he would have caused way more damage and less than that and he would have missed you completely! Those darned younger guys. I think we should get rid of the lot of them. And their Hondas. PS - Exmark!

I've seen a few of the aftermarket needles shorter than stock, but as long as the needle is long enough that there is still needle sticking in the nozzle even with the piston all the way up, then making it longer doesn't really matter. However, if the needle is so sort that it pulls completely out of the nozzle when the piston is all the way up, then that's a problem. Does that make sense?

And I'll give you a different perspective... I would derive all of my analog stuff using precision reference voltages or current sources. I wouldn't want to have to know what the battery voltage was unless I really needed to. You might be able to figure out a way such that you do not care what VBatt was at all. :bulb: I'm assuming there's a good stable (maybe even band gap) reference source used by the on-board A/D's and D/A's? There's no way they're using the digital supply for conversions, right? Use the same or another good reference source to drive the sensors and the battery voltage no longer matters. You might still need to know when it comes to the injector pulse because the opening speed is so influenced by system voltage, but other than that, I'm thinking you shouldn't care.

Lenny, Cool. So do the calculated numbers more closely match your measured? Also, I don't remember where I read it, but I thought the reference was also intended to account for temp drift of the AFM resistance. Let me see if I can dig that up or if I'm imagining things. :bulb:

Great progress! As for the temp sensors... The data points in the FSM for the temp sensors are wrong. Use these instead: Steinhart-Hart coefficients for the temp sensor RTD's. Same ones for both the IAT and WTS. C = 1.89571E-07 B = 0.000257545 A = 0.001305386 Graph it in Excel and you can pick off as many points as you need... You want me to send you my file?

Ha! Classic batch style user interface questions. Before I get into any thoughts about them, let me make sure of one other thing first: Make sure you have a bullet proof, iron-clad, robust, absolutely all situation covering way of recovering from a half-completed config download or flash burn. You're always at the risk of interrupted communications halfway through a configuration download and you want to make sure you don't end up with a half-lobotomized patient that's stone dead because if can't make heads or tails out of the configuration data. Someone trips over and yanks out the USB cable. Someone shuts the car off at just the wrong moment. Someone disconnects the battery at just the wrong moment. Someone gets a "You've got mail" at just the wrong moment. As a last resort, an NMI driven H/W "RESET" button on the ECU itself that restores some sort of factory default config? As for the question at hand... I'm sure you remember in the olden days, the classic reason for not burning to flash every time was that they had a limited number of burn cycles. If you've got the cycles to burn (pun intended), then I'm thinking burning every parameter when you hit "ENTER" is the way to go. That way, it would be easier to tell if you screwed something up. Of course, the drawback of that would be (other than the number of flash burns) is that if you're changing multiple parameters at the same time that are related in some way, you could wish to dump them all at the same time. I'm thinking that offering an option to work on a config either "online" or "offline", with the default being on? At the end of the day, my real answer would be "Doesn't really matter. It's going to work so well and be so kick-arse right out of the box that you shouldn't have to be messing with it that much."

I've got a pump from (I believe) a 260 and a couple of the braided style hoses. PM me if you're interested.

That was my thought as well, but I didn't have the time to investigate. I didn't want to just go raising the amplitude without investigation first. I didn't want to pop anything.

Different years did different things with different versions of a temperature switch. How's that for an all inclusive statement? :laugh: In 76, the temperature switch controlled spark timing on the non-California dual-pickup distributors (see page EE-26 of the 76 manual) and it also controlled actuation of the EGR system (see page EC-11 of the 76 manual). Basically, they advance the timing and disable the EGR until the engine warms up to the temp at which the switch opens.

The breakout board sounds like a great idea. I miss having access to facilities to do stuff like that. When I set-up my test bench, I did not have an AFM loose so I just tried to cobble together a substitute with pots and resistors. I also used a sig-gen for the ignition input and the bottom line is that I never got injector pulses and I didn't have the time to figure out why. I'm not sure if there was a problem with my simulated AFM or if my faked ignition pulses weren't good enough to fool the ECU.

Nice work! The only laser I have is strapped to a dolphin's head and I don't think I could train him to do such intricate work. At one of my former employers we used to form diaphragms out of semi-vulcanized elastomeric sheet. Clamp them in a hot contoured clamshell mold, add heat, time, take out a little smoke, and presto... Formed diaphragm that is now fully vulcanized. That diaphragm you made isn't roll formed like the original so it isn't going to perform the same, but it's sure a lot better than what you had in there before!! What glove material did you use? I'm thinking Nitrile?

Haha!! Well THERE'S your problem! Good luck with the diaphragm. There are several members who have simply removed and blocked off the BCDD completely and don't feel they miss the functionality. I've not tried this as my BCDD still seems to be working as intended, but others have. YMMV.

Excellent progress. Were you intending to "run" the ECU on the bench before you tossed it into a car? I saw in one of the pics you had an EFI harness out on the bench... I was figuring you would power it up using that harness and use pots for the temp sensors, etc and a sig-gen for the ignition input. Twiddle the pots and watch the injector pulse width change? I set one up on my bench like that but didn't get it to work. I didn't have a lot of time and had to get the car back together, but I figured I would take an hour and see if I could get it to work on the bench. I unfortunately ran out of time before I got any meaningful data. If you want me to put that test set-up together, let me know. My Z is down for the season.

Dual Inline Package

Methinks you've got a hole in your BCDD diaphragm. I don't think you can get just the diaphragm as a replacement though. If you turn up a source, please share?

I love the smell of tantalum in the morning. Excellent. That's a huge first step! Glad you didn't get any gravy inside. PS - Big three phase thickness planer?

You weren't out in the Z in that, were you? Keep driving in that and your Z will look that car Blue posted! Haha! Neither. I'm out of the box. I've figured out an incredibly simple way to use many of the plentiful and cheap check valves that are still available. Lots of options. I'm running one of them on my car now but the install was intended to be temporary. When I take the pump back out this off season, I'll take pics. In the meantime... You can stop worrying about check valve availability. I got everyone covered.

Haha! First one ever. Your prose inspired me!