Captain Obvious

Yeah, weird. Another example of the original wiring diagram for the early cars falling short of accurate. The whole reason I started this journey! And I think I'm approaching the end. The mistakes being uncovered up are becoming less severe and less frequent. I'll have the new rev out soon. Changes to the horn system, some power distribution stuff (grounding scheme), and of course, the condensers.

Cool. And those wheels did clean up nice!

Are the lug nuts really aluminum? Really? Was that a thing paired with really light wheels? I would use those on the track and check them often, but sounds sketchy to run aluminum nuts on the street.

Fingers crossed! So the old dead cap either went open circuit, or shorted internally. That style of cap (known as an aluminum electrolytic) has been known to go either way. If it went short, the clock wouldn't run at all. If it went totally open, the clock might work, or might not. Sounds like yours did just that. Hope you're good from here! Too bad about the other clock though. Probably nothing can be done with that one unless you find NOS of the xtal and/or the control chip.

Thanks for the help. I have an incomplete version of the 1970 FSM, but I've been through the EE section. It don't think it shows all the condensers. For example, the circuit diagram you posted only showed the condenser mounted on the distributor. They didn't include the one on the coil attached to the positive side (crudely grafted onto the the diagram below): And they didn't show how the tach connects! At least not until 1972, and it was still cryptic then!

Awesome. Thanks!! And your prolific use of pics and documentation has helped me on numerous occasions. Keep up the good work!! I'm currently working on a set of carb air cleaner attachment hardware stuff based on a sketch of yours from years ago. 😊

Thanks Zed. I will add condensers and publish a new revision to the diagram shortly!

Awesome. Thanks for the help. So it sounds like there are supposed to be four condensers: One on the distributor. One over by the coil, attached to coil (+) One on the back of the alternator, and One by the voltage regulator. Anyone else want to weigh in? Input from people who document pretty much everything? ( @CanTechZ )

Hahahaha!! I've been called worse than stickler as well. And that was just today!! 😄 I'm confident with your attention to detail, that stuff I noticed has already been addressed, or will be in the near future.

So... Condensers. None of them are shown on the original wiring diagrams, yet it is clear that some exist. I'm working on some revisions to the wiring diagram and I'd like to put the condensers on it. It seems pretty clear that there should be a condenser mounted on the distributor. And it's connected to the points side of the coil (coil negative) like this: Next, it seems pretty clear there should be a condenser mounted over on the coil itself. Question is... Should it be connected to the coil (+), or the coil (-)? Seems to me that it should be connected to the coil (+), since the condenser mounted on the distributor is already connected to the coil (-): Next, is the voltage regulator and alternator. Here's a pic that shows the condenser at the voltage regulator, but there is no condenser on the alternator itself: But I've seen pics with a condenser mounted right on the back side of the alternator, like this: So, my outstanding questions are: 1) To which coil connection (battery side, or points side) does the condenser on the coil make connection to? 2) Should there be a condenser on the back of the alternator? And thank you all for the hoovered pics. I'm pretty sure some of them came from members here.

Leaking oil pan gasket? And... Mismatched hardware holding the slave cylinder on?? From you? Stickler for details? I'm shocked!!! Hahahaha!!!! 😁

Yeah, that cap certainly doesn't sound healthy. Hope that the new replacement fixes it!

Yeah, that thread popped up when I was poking around as well. >> https://www.zcar.com/threads/280z-clock-part.354058/ Yeah, unfortunately, it's sounding like it might be the chip or the crystal. I could probably tell you which of those two items are not working, but it would take an oscilloscope.

Excellent. Send pics when you get a chance!

Gotcha. Was just making sure the readings you were seeing were "first order" and you you weren't reading something that was fooling your AFM gauge. Something like a lean misfire that can read rich. That sort of thing.