Captain Obvious

Only the third one? Someone at the show suggested that combo is rare, but I've not looked into it. The current paint on the OG bugs me. A previous owner sprayed the outside blue, and the inside black. So it left the factory white with blue, but now it's "blueish with blackish". I spent some time before zcon working on taking the black off the inside, but ran out of time against other higher priorities. I also spend a little time experimenting with taking the blue off the outside, but could not find a chemical that would work on the blue, but not the white. In other words... I can take the blue off, but the white always comes with it. The car is very original in so many areas, but the paint is not. Bugs me.

I also made a set of battery cables and swapped out the ratchet strap hold-down for something a little more appropriate. I know it loses some of that road-kill character, but it's much cleaner now. Here's what I started with: And here's what I got now: And I included the ground wire directly from the battery to the firewall now. Didn't have this before:

I swapped out the 160 thermostat for a 180, and here's where the gauge stabilized. Higher than the 160 thermostat (duh), but still lower than I was running with NO thermostat and the old questionable radiator. Good deal! Here's where I am now:

I reported the post above, but still not sure the report function is working. There are other bots I've reported that are not yet nuked so I'm not sure if I'm doing this right.

Hey @Mike , Here's another bot. They are still multiplying.

There's so much religion and hearsay around motor oils that I usually don't pay much attention. But I'm glad I watched that video. Guy actually applied science, credible documentable references, and theory*. I'm glad I watched that one. * Not just "Last year, my cousins boyfriend put <oil brand> into his small block and it wiped his cam. And stuff"

Yes, that plastic piece is a travel stop, and you should really have one in there. If that stop is missing, the lever travel could be too much and the rear adjustment system may not work properly.

Would have loved to go for a ride when we were at Zcon. If I had been feeling better we could have changed a radiator and then gone for a rip!

Woof. Glad you can salvage that! Yuck.

Haha! No, thankfully I have never seen that modification.

@Mike , I've been reporting the posts as well. Is the "report" function working?

@Mike They are multiplying!! This is number three in the last week or so!!

Just a (probably unnecessary) precaution. It's the same wire that runs to the voltage regulator, but it probably has more electrical noise the closer you get to the coil. Even though it's the same wire, there's some filtering that will occur as a result of the natural inductance and capacitance that will exist in the length of wire over on the other side of the engine compartment. I wouldn't be surprised if the voltage dips more (when the points are closed) over by the coil than it would over at the regulator. And the voltage will blip higher when the points open closer to the coil than by the regulator. Even though it's the same wire. Again, probably doesn't really matter if you're just hanging a relay on it, but if given a choice, I'd tap in as far from the coil as would be convenient.

I don't think that is going to work. None of the connections on the back of the alternator will do what you want. The connection that you are thinking of as "only having an output when the car is running" is connected to the battery. So regardless if the car is running or not, that wire will be at battery voltage.