Captain Obvious

Would have loved to go for a ride when we were at Zcon. If I had been feeling better we could have changed a radiator and then gone for a rip!

Woof. Glad you can salvage that! Yuck.

Haha! No, thankfully I have never seen that modification.

@Mike , I've been reporting the posts as well. Is the "report" function working?

@Mike They are multiplying!! This is number three in the last week or so!!

Just a (probably unnecessary) precaution. It's the same wire that runs to the voltage regulator, but it probably has more electrical noise the closer you get to the coil. Even though it's the same wire, there's some filtering that will occur as a result of the natural inductance and capacitance that will exist in the length of wire over on the other side of the engine compartment. I wouldn't be surprised if the voltage dips more (when the points are closed) over by the coil than it would over at the regulator. And the voltage will blip higher when the points open closer to the coil than by the regulator. Even though it's the same wire. Again, probably doesn't really matter if you're just hanging a relay on it, but if given a choice, I'd tap in as far from the coil as would be convenient.

I don't think that is going to work. None of the connections on the back of the alternator will do what you want. The connection that you are thinking of as "only having an output when the car is running" is connected to the battery. So regardless if the car is running or not, that wire will be at battery voltage.

@Mike It's still a bot!!

I bow to you good sir and have no further skepticism. And not only that, but according to the FSM, you clearly followed the recommended test procedures. I am impressed!

Pics or it didn't happen.

If you are looking for a wire out in the engine bay that goes hot only when the ignition is ON, I think your only* choice is the B/W wire going to the voltage regulator. *There is also the same B/W wire going to the coil (+) side, but I'm thinking it would be better to keep your connection away from the ignition system if possible.

Last thought... I think that welding the buckets to the fenders and removing that seam line is a great improvement to the looks of the car. When done right, of course.

The headlights are removed from behind. Inside the wheel well. So yes... You can remove the headlights without removing the bucket. In fact, there is no "maintenance" reason to ever remove a bucket. Only ever removed when doing bodywork on the car. It is my theory that the only reason the buckets exist in the first place (instead of making the fender and the bucket all one piece) is that Datsun could not manufacture the fender that way. The metal is not able stretch and shrink enough to make that possible. I think that if it were possible, they would have made it all one piece from the factory.

@Mike As the title of this thread suggests... It's hammer time. It's time for you to wield the ban hammer. Wield it like Thor. ☠️ *If you wield a tool or a weapon, you handle it effectively. Picture a gallant knight wielding a sword or a skillful chef wielding a whisk. Or picture Thor. Or Mike.

I have high confidence that Ellison is friends with Patel. In fact, I'm pretty sure they were both born in the same software lab.