Walter Moore

Depends upon your skill level. Personally I have barely mastered the pop rivet and bondo approach sufficiently to get by. If you can weld, and weld very thin sheet metal which is an even higher level skill, then your approach to repairs will be different I suspect.

Wow, US $ 967.25 for a header. I guess it won't rust, but...

The basic answer is the transmissions are interchangeable to some degree across the 240Z to 280ZX line. I have a 280ZX 5 speed in my 71. I believe that the 72 came with the series B transmission, so you would not have to modify the floor to install a later unit. Read up on the swap in these threads: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32345&highlight=transmission+swap http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37468&highlight=transmission+swap http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36171&highlight=transmission+swap http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9667&highlight=transmission+swap There are a lot of other threads on the subject.

Sorry, I had assumed that the injector fans were part of Nissan's long running effort in that era to fight vapor lock, and had read that the vapor lock issue was worse in slow moving heavy traffic. I guess I see where the fans would perhaps reduce evaporative fuel emissions somewhat... I know someone who installed one of those fans on a 260Z to try to prevent vapor lock. That was the basis of my comment. So then this car is a hodge-podge of various parts from various sources, and without knowing the history of why things were added it could be difficult to sort out what is needed from what isn't.

That is an impressive looking list. I don't know what to say except good luck.

Being technically a 77, wouldn't you have to make it meet U.S. emissions requirements to be able to register it in some jurisdictions? I guess if it has the same fuel injection system as the U.S. spec cars that may not be too hard. (At least for a 49 state model) Interesting that it has the fuel injector cooling fan over the top of the valve cover. Was that standard on all of the FI cars? I had been told by someone that it was a ZX addition, at least here in the states. With the heaver and generally slower daytime traffic in Tokyo they may have needed it worse than we did.

If you are desperate to install them there are adapters available, but they require cutting your existing wheel studs short to facilitate installation.

Oh, you took the solenoid off of the car and now it is stuck on all the time? I bet that you don't have it back on properly. The small wire energizes the solenoid that pulls the starter gear out to engage the flywheel. When the solenoid "slug" is pulled in far enough it closes a switch to send current from the battery cable to the motor. If you have installed the starter wrong this switch may be closed all of the time.

Try these threads: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29022&highlight=starter+wiring http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36504&highlight=starter+wiring One even has pictures. But they look similar to yours...

"Rust never sleeps..." Neil Young. Never really liked his music, but a truly great observation. It certainly applies to the ruined remains in the photograph.

Actually I believe that Lake and Porter counties do have mandatory emissions testing. I don't recall the details, but think it was every 5 years. There was a member of this forum at one time from Northern Indiana.

Question, does it have a catalytic converter? I have been "advised" on this site that the 49 state models did not come with one. (I personally never saw any post 76 car that didn't have a converter, but that is beside the point.) That may alter the strategy regarding making it comply.

GnoseZ, If your luck is contagious you should tell them to "break a leg"....

You can get the factory service manuals as a PDF here: http://www.xenons30.com/ http://www.xenons130.com/ And I bet that there is a lot of information on this subject over at HybridZ: http://www.hybridz.org/

My car, 4/71, also has the mystery threaded hole. But then it is an "early series 2" by the North American reckoning, (Vents on the side, not on the rear hatch) so I suppose it should resemble your 72 more than the 70(69).

Doesn't look too bad. Another few thousand $ and you will have something there... Good luck.

The carburetor equipped cars didn't come with a pressure regulator from the factory. The return port on the fuel rail has a very small orifice to restrict the flow back to the tank and keep the pressure where it belongs. This isn't to say that a pressure regulator is never required, just not with the factory pump(s).

I have seen the aluminum drums split when they were removed too forcefully. Just thought I would mention that.

I just got back from my 4th "solo" event. You have to love the part where people walk up and start talking to each other with the inevitable question: "What's that?" (Even funner now that it has "240Z" written across the top of the windshield.)

There is a cable coming through the firewall in the throttle linkage location that is clearly attached to the heat shield. It appears to run to the front carburetor, but I don't see any other linkage. I do not know enough about that style of carb to know where to look for a throttle shaft.

I also had done a lot of amateur brake work by the time I first started trying to get my car drivable. I fought with the brakes for over a year until I finally gave up and replaced EVERYTHING with OEM parts. Now the brakes work fine. But I have a constant nagging fear that eventually I will have to replace something, and the whole process will start over again.

You could I suppose, but without the pump it would just make the engine compartment messy. I just plugged the hole (use the search function to find out how...) I don't know where you could get a new pump, but someone else here might.

I at least never had any illusions that my car was "rust free". But some of that rust frightens me. How do you get the ROOF to rust like that? The fender lip rust looks very typical, but the roof rust... that is scary.

If you still have the original fuse box, check the tightness of your fuse clips. Mine were so loose that I started having things (like the radio) shut off and turn back on at random intervals because the clips were rattling. I used really small tie-wraps to squeeze the clips together, but MSA and others sell replacement fuse boxes as well.

A larger brake pad of any given material will produce more friction at any given pressure (PSI), however you are correct that the coefficient of friction depends upon the pad. The biggest benefit of larger rotors is more surface area to dissipate the heat generated when braking. With almost any brake pad material if it gets hot enough it generates less friction. But back to the original question, BTF/PTM did you understand the answer? The volume of fluid required to move larger, or multiple pistons is greater than the stock system required, and the "hydraulic pump" in a traditional automotive braking system is the master cylinder. If you increase the volume of fluid demanded you have to increase the capacity of the pump. (That or you have to pump the pedal multiple times at every stop.)