ntomsheck

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About ntomsheck

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  1. That's very similar to what I did, except it was a 3/4" to 3/4" double male connector. I just tightened the snot out of the hose clamp on the heater core side haha. Now I just have to work on getting the 3 way off the thermostat housing... might have to cut it and slip my impact over it - she's not budging with a wrench. Lets hope the heater core doesn't leak hahaha.
  2. Thanks dclamm, that's how I assumed the stock routing went, and I see the tube behind the engine is for the intake manifold cooling ports - not the carbs. Thanks to you too, 260zcalicar. It looks like you have the intake manifold and carb coolant routes deleted. I'm thinking about doing the same thing - the car wont be driven in the winter. I think I have everything I need now, thank you guys for your help! BTW, you guys have really nice looking engine bays haha.
  3. Haha that's a large breather tube then, okay that problem is solved. So if I were to plug up the three way on the thermostat housing, I would only need to run front waterneck to heatercore and back of the block to heater core, correct? Oh btw, does anyone know what kind of drain plug the radiator uses? I tried 1/4" NPT and it's too big, but it doesn't look small enough to be 1/8" NPT
  4. Since I solved the radiator problem I was having, I've come across a new problem. This car has the most intricate cooling system of all the cars I've worked on. As such, I need a little push in the right direction as to which hose goes where. Some of the hoses that came with the car have been cut, so I can't just find where it fits the best. First, if anyone has any entire cooling system diagrams, then you don't have to read any further. The car is a 1974 260z by the way. I've taken a few pictures and labled each fitting using my awesome MS paint skills Below is picture 1. This is the three way neck on the thermostat housing. Also seen in this picture is the coolant line that runs through the intake manifold. It's my guess that the number 4 connector (with the hose already on it) is connected to the number 2. I have no idea where 1 and 3 go Below is picture 2. This is the driver side waterneck, below the thermostat housing, labeled number 1. No idea which fitting this connects to. Below is picture 3. This picture I found on these forums while searching for cooling system diagrams. It looks like connectors 4 and 5 would be connected together. Also, it looks like 2 and 3 connect, and 1 and 6. Am I correct? I know the front of that Tee connector connects to the pass. side waterneck. Where does the other end of that pipe connect that runs behind the engine? Is that for the carb cooling lines? or the intake cooling lines. Thank you for your help!
  5. Problem solved. I went over to the guys house who we are buying it from and he had the original radiator. It's a little beat up, but I leak tested it and it's holding water. Now I just need to focus on coolant hose routing haha.
  6. Haha I'm positive sir. The radiator is not even in the car, nor do I know where the overflow tank is - another part the previous owner lost. If the end tanks were metal, I would have welded it already and called it a day. I think it's fair to say the original owner replaced it at some point. What kind of seal do they use to hold the end tanks to the core? I see the metal tabs, but what kind of seal?
  7. Yeah, it seems like a fiberglass or composite almost. It's the type of plastic all the new intake manifolds are made out of. Speaking of fiberglass... what type of pressure does this radiator see, standard 7psi? I bet I could make a fiberglass end tank replacement... The problem with ebay and online radiator vendors is that they all want $150+. The owner of this car is a cheap a$$. He paid me $100 to put the motor and trans in and make it run. I'd buy it from the guy, but I have too many bills haha. Anyone know of any other vehicles that have close fitting radiators? I remember reading about a chevy radiator, but as for year make and model, I have nothing.
  8. Hey guys, I just got a 260z running after it sat for who knows how long. If you've been following my other posts, you'll know that it came without the engine in it, and missing a good deal of parts. Not to mention, a lot of the parts that were there, are fairly damaged. I put a garden hose in the radiator to flush out all the earwigs that have managed to make a home in it, and found out one of the plastic tanks (the bottom to be exact) has a crack in it. Water leaks out fairly quickly, so I can only imagine it under pressure. First question, how well do radiator stop-leak type products work on repairing holes in the plastic tanks? Would it hold it long enough while I sourced out a replacement? or would it blow instantly. Second question, what type of aftermarket or OEM retrofit radiators are popular? I can't find a stock replacement radiator, and all the other radiators I have are far too wide to even fit in the engine bay. Are there any radiators from more recent datsun/nissan cars that fit without too much fuss? Or from any cars for that matter? Cheap is the idea, but new-aftermarket isn't off the table. Thanks
  9. Well the car runs and idles with the supply line hooked directly to the carb (with an inline filter, of cours). Some tuning is clearly necessary, and timing adjustment, but it's running fairly well. Thanks for all your help. See my new post in the cooling section if you're still looking to help hahaha.
  10. Well the guy we're buying it from (The guy lets anyone try to get the vehicle started before they buy it, that's how I scored a 98 cherokee from him for 250 bucks), put the dual two-barrel system on it. The carbs are dirty so I can only imagine he ran it like that for at least a little while. There was a bolt jammed in each line; the return, the source, and the evap. It looks like the bolt in the return line has been in there longer (hard to tell with the general age of the parts) so I'll have to ask him how he ran the lines and how well the carbs ran in his set-up. Perhaps he just ran the mech straight off the electric with no return. I can't find any stamping on the carbs, so I can't say whether they're weber or not - I know those are very sensitive to pressure. It doesn't look like there was a reg between the mech and the carbs - all the hoses are prefect length on that side of the pump. Thanks for your replies so far, I'll try it straight off the source line until I see the guy again. I'll keep you guys updated.
  11. Haha well then it's missing a fuel rail. I'll rig some goofy system up with fuel line and brass fittings then to accomplish what you just stated. At least until the owner or I will buy an FPR
  12. Hey guys, I'm almost ready to start this 260Z I've been working on for the past month. It came without the engine bolted in, so needless to say there are missing parts and bolts. I see a fuel supply line, a fuel return, and what I would guess is an EVAP line. The car seems to have an electric fuel pump in addition to the mechanical fuel pump. I imagine since there is a return line, these had some form of pressure regulation system on them. Does anyone have a diagram? Or could describe it in words? Things I'm looking for are, what the pressure should be set to, what side of the FPR the mech. pump should pull it's fuel from, etc. The car has a dual two-barrel carb upgrade also, with electronic ignition.
  13. What kind of metal are the door frames made out of? The shiny frame around the window broke off in the far back corner of the window on the Z I'm working on. At a close look, it almost looks like it was cast, but I'd like to hope not. It doesn't have corrosion on it, so it doesn't seem like it would be regular steel. I've got a spool of stainless wire, in addition to my many spools of steel wire. Unfortunately, I don't have a spool gun, or a tig welder so I'm out of luck if it's aluminum. Anyone else have this problem?
  14. I 'borrowed' the battery out of a friends 72 charger (which fit surprisingly well), and once hooked up to it, everything worked properly. The tach no longer showed 2k, the underhood light came on. The electronic fuel pump even started working. It was pumping some orange/brown 20+ year old gas though , so I was surprised the pump wasn't clogged. Is there any kind of return system for the electronic pumps? There doesn't seem to be any kind of FP regulator, but there looks to be a return line. We actually had the car pop to life for a few seconds, with a can of starting fluid. It backfired through the carb though, so I've gotta check my timing and plug wire orientation. Thank you for your help