Patcon

We solved this. I bought a refurbished switch off of Ebay and that fixed this issue

We bought a 72 510 wagon for my son about a two years ago. It had been hit on the front right and it took us a while to get that straightened out. Lots of pulling, shrinking and welding We rebuilt the hood out of two different hoods there are some more pictures of this on the forum, but I don't know where... We are changing the cars color from an Ivory type color to one of the factory orange colors. Last weekend we pulled the hatch and started reworking it but there was some bondo on there, so that required a good bit of metal work and even after that there is still a lot of filler on the panel I will try to post up some more picture tomorrow

How do you tell SSS carbs apart from regular 1600 carbs? I am rebuilding some small throat SU's for Cody's wagon but I was unaware there was anything other SSS carbs...

I fired the plating bench up today... I took the other strut caps to start with and bead blasted them. Then I took one of them and sanded the flat face with 320 grit paper I put them in SP degreaser; then water bucket rinse; then to the plating tank. I skipped the Pickle tank because I thought it was causing a rough finish on my parts After the plating tank, spray rinse then I put them in the Chromate tanks Blue for 30-60 secs, spray rinse and yellow for 15 secs The sanded one is on the right in the above photo I added a hot water bath for my chromate tanks to keep them warm I have a bucket heater we use when doing tile work in cold weather. I warmed up a bucket of water and poured it around the bottom of the chromate tanks I had to heat them up 3 times during a 9 hour or so plating session I worked on plating hardware on Cody's Su's for most of the day This is after bead blasting... I have a very fine bead in my blasting cabinet right now, so I skipped wire wheeling these items for This is the result. After they hang a little while I use a heat gun and finish drying them the rest of the way. After working at reassembling the SU, which is quite the puzzle, this is what I've got... Before on the right, after on the left

If my notes are correct, this is what I gleaned: Yellow Chromate 10 Oz/Gal Sodium Dichromate 1/2 Oz/Gal Sulfuric Acid - battery acid He plates for 15 minutes or so He is using Caswells plating solution and hasn't done anything other than add make up water Plating grade Anodes Using Caswell Brightener Blue Chromate: .8 Oz/Gal Sodium Dichromate 3.2Oz/Gal Nitric Acid

In your position I would buy a 260 or 280z and put SU's or triples on it and drive it. You can make the front look just like a 240z with the turn signals and little bumpers...and it is a much cheaper way to "get in the door" than a 240z...also after I believe 76 they started galvanizing the bodies which helped with the rust some...

That car is better but rear wheel arch is rusted out. Rear deck lid has rust on the rear edge and bumpers look like they are rusted through. Considering it was originally green, I would assume there is more rust under the gold respray. If you want to look for a clean car, search in Phoenix, Southern California or some where else in the South West. The cost of shipping is well worth it. As for daily driver, they are more than capable of that but in states that salt roads it's a bad idea to run these cars when there is salt on the roads.

Thanks for the links

Not very much! There is rust all the way across the front of the roof panel and I'm sure there is a lot more you can't see. You would be better off to buy a car from somewhere with less rust and pay to ship it...

Be sure all the throttle plate screws are still in place...

I like the louvers. I know some don't but they make the car much cooler when it gets hot outside...although in the Great White North, that may not be an issue

PM sent

Just remember there are no free lunches. It takes horsepower to turn that alternator. The more power you need the more HP it takes...

No, there is the Datsun script that is the same as the fenders. I can source it, but there is also a 510 badge that goes on the hatch... I think it looks like the lower one here...

We messed with the car some more. We have gotten the water out of the engine and we can turn it by hand but it's very tight. Took the carbs off and will try to clean them up. The battery charged up. So if I can get it loose enough we will move on to check spark...

I suspect the holes they added in the rear pan also help with air flow at the back of the car

That looks like money...

I am looking for a good clean Datsun 510 rear hatch emblem. It's for a Christmas present. Part # 79821-A2600. I have not seen them new... @zKars

Not to be a distraction or to clutter the thread but does anyone know if these are used the same way on the 510 wagon hatch?

Hardway I am in for a set maybe two...

Yes, a voltmeter. Yes, you should get battery voltage on both sides of a fusible link...many times they are bad with no visible damage.

You need a meter, visual inspections won't do it...

I don't don't think Zed Head was implying deception. I think he was implying it could be perceived this way. If you look at Zed Head's post over the years, this doesn't fit the M.O.

and that is a serious concern. I suspect fraud was the intent from the beginning, to raise the cars value. I can still see reasons for taking two cars and creating one, where it's legal...

So the paint thinner was enough to remove the overspray. I am surprised you didn't need lacquer thinner or something stronger...