Patcon

Cool! It would be nice to see some West coasters @Mike @Zed Head @Mark Maras and others... You all could compete for furthest attendee

I did some searching too and found a lot of references to wintergreen oil. One post spoke about mixing about 4 oz of Wintergreen oil in a pot of water and boiling the parts for about 40 minutes. Evidently gave good sustainable results. Another was soaking parts in lacquer thinner mixed with wintergreen oil. Just keep in mind Wintergreen oil is very toxic! I found 8oz of oil on ebay for a little more than a $1 an ounce

Have you tried Gummi Pflege? I remember it being brought up in the past. I had thought I might try it on some pieces I was gonna use because they are unavailable.

I would be in option #1. Now how I would go about that is an issue. The original design has some weaknesses that are easily overcome with headlight relays. Also everything is already the right length. I am thinking I will unwrap the harness I'm using. Visually check it, clean the connections and rewrap with loom tape. Possibly do some voltage drop or resistance tests. Maybe get new plugs from Vintage Connections (I believe that's the source)

@SteveJ

@nix240z

I haven't tried it yet in a Z, but the diesel engine oils tend to have more detergents anyway which could help clean up an older engine. Although sometimes that can cause more harm than good... I have been running Rotella in my ski boat's V-8

@siteunseen @Namerow Thanks Guys, That appears to be the correct thread. It's about 3 years old and I posted a couple of times in it, but don't even remember it. I am glad someone else here has some semblance of a memory.

No problem. Glad I could help

$30,000 at a minimum, unless you plan on doing a lot of it yourself

What about an alloy makes it rust worse than another alloy? I worked in a chemical plant at one time and they made acid based dyes among other things. The filter presses looked like that rotor. Valve handles looked like they were made out of old grape vines

I agree, many of these panels from these vendors could be better! On the other hand I am glad they exist at all! They were developed for a niche market when these cars were still relatively cheap. There was not a lot of money to be made and many of these panels were developed because an individual saw a need and filled it for himself then offered it to the Z community. I imagine a great many cars have been saved from the crusher because these parts exist, even if they need some massaging to fit well. I would say that's a good thing overall.

That looks like a good way to get hurt! I would suspect the milkyness was from UV but it could have been water intrusion under the clear coat Sorry Rich for the thread jack...

I like the red valve cover!

Also there is a groove between the "s" and the "u" in the old font, and the "D" has the plastic removed from the upper left corner in the older version.

It can do both, as well as, let go like some Hondas and Chevys have done over the years. Did your boat have automotive clear coat on it? Not gelcoat? Also like most everything more expensive clears perform better. The high solids clears are better but are harder to spray and can get quite expensive

Here is my puller. I bought it from some one many years ago. He was making them for forum members. Might have been on Hybrid Z The all thread is 1" hardened rod. With a bearing to help with friction I haven't found one I couldn't pull yet. Even the ones I just separated that have been sitting outside for the last six years. I use wrenches to turn it so if it gets too difficult I fall back to heat and penetrating oils. I could see pulling the end off one being possible with this tool Mitchell, Let me know if you need a loaner

This is a very good suggestion. Also be sure you have another alert person as a fire watch for the top side. Take the seat out and some wet towels if it comes to that... Don't use my son!!! Who didn't notice the smoke at all! I was like, "Where's that smoke coming from???? " "What smoke?" Torched the wiring harness because he was zoning out!

I believe this is the N3501

I believe this is the product 26th-z is referring to. the real problem is that by the time you buy all the ingredients you will have a significant amount of money tied up in it and probably enough material to make a sprayable gallon. It does not appear to be a catalyzed product, so pretty easy to spray DDL DURACRYL® is a fast dry, acrylic based lacquer system designed for repair of motor vehicles. This repair system is useful in spot or section repairs as well as overall finishing. DDL single stage colors can be polished to a full gloss. DURACRYL® basecoat colors have formula comments that tell when the clearcoat is required. Product Information Effective 11/03 P-148 Compatible Surfaces DDL may be applied over: · Cleaned, sanded and primed OEM or Refinish topcoat · DPLF Epoxy Primer · DPX801 Universal Plastic Adhesion Promoter · DSX1900 Bonding Clear · DX54 ROADGUARD® Chip Resistant Coating · DZ Kondar® Acrylic Primer Surfacer Required Products DTL Thinners Cold Temperature (below 50°F) DTL10 Cool Temperature (50 – 65°F) DTL16 Medium Temperature (65 - 85° F) DTL876 Warm/Hot Temperatures (85 – 110°F) DTL105 Retarder (over 85°F) up to 25% of thinner DTX114 Clear DURACRYL® Hi-Performance Clear DCA468

To my knowledge, no. Because all of the color is below the clear coat it makes it look deeper than a single stage can. It also tends to have that shiny wet look that is hard to accomplish with single stage. Also all of the UV inhibitors float to the top of the single stage paint as it cures. When you cut and buff it, you are removing the UV protection. The clear coat maintains the UV protection even after the C&B

I would be interested in antennae parts as well as a mast maybe two

Excellent!

@jonathanrussell Did your rebuilt proportioning valve work properly?

Thanks Jim! Any thoughts on brake fluid or grease in the brake switch?