Patcon

45's are a lot of carb for a 2.4L engine, most people run 40's

That looks like lots of camber up front...

The cam looks good, nice and shiny!

I have found the embedded search engine is subpar to using google, unfortunately

One of the threads I read last night. The guy was a helicopter crash firefighter on a navy ship. They told him if the magnesium wheels on the chopper catch fire you can't extinguish them because they burn so hot it breaks the water into hydrogen and oxygen. He also said they burn so hot they'll burn through the ship deck in just a few minutes. So the SOP was to push the burning chopper overboard...

My hub specs out at larger than even an A hub! So it can't have been wallered? out. The dimensions would be smaller in that case. Confusing... Now it is possible my measuring is suspect. I would only have to be off by 0.010" to be a B hub, at least on the one side

@grannyknot

So I mic'd the second "B" piece @ 2.068" . The seat to seat dimension I got was 2.087" & 2.080" I measured in the scallops using the "B" piece as a surface to work from. Didn't have a sacrificial set of calipers So do the bearings have 0.020" freeplay? @Captain Obvious If I can't sort the other hub and have to disassemble it I will measure those parts too

Was it grannyknot or Sweatybetty that found something as a substitue for this?

Yea, I thought it was odd to be standard. As for the hub. I intentionally only did one hub at a time so I couldn't mix up parts and I had one to check against if I forgot something. The first one that seems like it will be too tight had the small copper washer in it. The second did not appear to have it. I never saw it and don't believe I lost it. I put the copper washer under the inside flange for the hub, between it and the bearing face. When I ran the nut down with the impact wrench it got too tight to turn. Now it's possible that it was over torqued but I seriously doubt it because my impact isn't really that strong. With it off the car I figured I would be challenged to get it torqued any way. So I figured I would need to have it on the car so I could use a wheel to hold it still to torque. Speaking of that, how did you torque Mathews hub? My torque wrench doesn't read that high. I also thought I should probably try to mic it so I know what I have...

I did some research on welding magnesium wheels last night. Evidently they can be tigged but it can be a difficult process and they are prone to stress cracks, that have to be found and repaired. A wheel like the one pictured earlier with out the lip is probably not good for anything but a hose reel like Gav said

If you try to die them it will have to be to a smaller size. If it were mine I would try to remove the stud and then get new studs from an automotive supply house or someplace like Fastenal. The studs are nice and make the work easier. But you have to be careful you don't snap them off, because they will have to be drilled out if you do. If you want to try to get them out put two nuts on one of them and tighten them against each other. Then put a wrench on one of the nuts and try to turn the stud out. It appears you are missing the rubber cover that goes around the clutch arm to prevent things from dropping in at the clutch.

As an aside, someone was asking recently about fuel tank drain threading. On the tank I have the drain plug is 1/2 x 20, which seems odd. I don't know if there is a close metric pitch or if this is truly a non-metric fitting

So I have been working on getting the car back down on the ground. That has meant I have been working on getting struts assembled the front backer plates use philips screws 6mm x 1.0 by maybe 10 Brake rotors bolt to the hubs with 10mmx1.25 by 18mm ? I have been plating hardware as I go and finally installing parts that I have had on the shelf for 6 years or more Work on the one of the rear struts too Did all new wheel studs while I was at it. Surprisingly I think Courtesy probably has the best price on the studs. Cheaper than where I sourced them. The rear backer plates also use 10mmx1.25 to bolt the backer plate to the hub. I am going to go ahead and convert to rear disc. I thought about converting later but figured it was just as easy to convert now I may have a similar problem as Mathew. We'll see when I torque the rear hubs. The seem like they are going to lock down when I torque them. @Captain Obvious I figured I would torque them once the car is down on it's tires

Pulled the head last weekend I think that might be our water leak #1. I checked it with a machinist rule and it's out of spec. Took it to the machine shop and he said it looks like someone had been belt sanding on it. So hopefully we will get it back the end of next week. Broke one of the bolts as the thermostat too Painted another one of his doors too

I love having the barrel plater!!! I did these today in one batch. Load em up and let it run for like an hour. I have found when my plate comes out really shiny, I blue dip for a minute or so, maybe less but I have to color dip for as much as 7 minutes to get color. I assume it's because the really shiny zinc is just harder and doesn't take color as well. I have also found when my plate isn't shiny I can turn up the current and the plate will brighten up. I have run as much as .32 per inch.

Very nice. You might need a throttle intake boot or more silicone! The numbers look excellent

Too bad. I know with aluminum you could rebuild an aweful lot. I don't know that much about Magnesium

20k! It's going to take a special buyer to pony up at that level I think

I don't know that it will do any harm. There is not cat to overheat and as long as the car doesn't run lean which would make a lot of heat. It will probably be down a little on power. Will be interesting to see what some other guys think...

or drive a straight drive!!! Well done teaching you son some skills!!!!

What would you even do with a wheel that the entire lip is gone? Is there anyone that rebuilds these wheels? It seems they could be worth the time and effort...

Thats just pre-salted veggies! Enjoy... ?

If you do drop the tank, try to get your hands on a flexible camera scope. It sounds like you might have access to one of those. It will make checking the tank easier. The other option is cutting it open, which would be my last resort. You should have access to the pick up lines from the fuel level sender hole, but I believe there is a tank baffle that blocks a direct view of them

You're being political again.. ?