jfa.series1

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Your original wheels were a steel rim - 14 X 4.5 with 0 offset, tires were probably 175/75 or possibly 185/70. New wheels and tires are what you like and can afford. Try to avoid extremes that result in clearance and handling problems - stick with 0 offset or as close as possible. Lots of photos and discussions on this site. The original cast iron exhaust manifold is very efficient, a header will have no real performance gains unless you are planning for significant engine mods. A suggestion: build a plan for the car, area by area: body exterior including all weatherseals, interior, suspension, drivetrain, ...etc. Then establish your budget for the areas and the total car. You say you have a great running car. Enjoy it for a while and figure out where the most serious needs are and go to work there. Scattershooting all over the car can result in a mess, cost a lot of money, and result in little or no real satisfaction. Just my humble opinion. Good luck and welcome to the group! Jim

I was in the same situation with refinished floorboards and foil-backed insulating material on the floors - my carpets were sliding like they were on glass. I picked up a couple of self-stick, non-skid mats with a granular finish similar to what you find on stairs, got them at Home Depot. Stuck them to the insulation on the floorboards. Problem solved!!! Jim

This appears to be one of the vent hoses for the fuel tank - the one that attaches at the middle-rear of the tank and enters the interior compartment behind the tail light cover on the right side. It is possible this hose spans multiple years of S30's. I replaced all 3 of mine during the resto, the P/N's were: 17239-E4601, $31.41; 17235-E4601, $61.53; 17236-E4601, $88.84. If the i.d. is about 1/2" then I think yours is the 3rd one in my list. Hope this helps. Jim

I agree with Arne on the satin black original finish. A matte or flat black will attract and hold dust, will show marks any time it is wiped down. Jim

Check out this current thread on a similar question to get a feel for what is involved with a swap. The override bars provide almost no additional protection for the rear, a slight protection for the hood on the front. Jim http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?44056-Z-Store-Fiberglass-Bumpers

The FSM is specific about installation of the oil pump to avoid this potential problem - the #1 cylinder must be at TDC prior to installing the pump. This will get the driveshaft for the distributor into the correct position. As recommended above, pull the pump and dizzy to check for damage, then start over with pump install. Don't forget to get your plug wires back into the correct positions. Jim

When I found my car in the dealer's showroom, the front and rear override bars were already installed - along with every other option the dealer could think of at that time. They had cut off the rubber on the front bumper guards, then drilled them for the override mounting screws. I suspect other dealers may have just drilled thru the rubber to mount the override bar. Probably a coin toss for you. Either way, you are going to damage the rubber to attach this piece. Jim

Don't overlook your local salvage yards as possible sources for pick-and pull. Also, consider contacting Roger Schmidt at Z Barn - with as many Z's as he has dismantled, he may have a large supply of used clamps. Getting used clamps replated is a fairly lost cost approach. Jim

Hey Chase - you may have already figured out the P/N does not get a hit on the Courtesy site. It certainly does not resemble a Datsun/Nissan P/N. The reference to "BFE" is possibly intended to be "BRE". The original BRE 240Z "Spook" used only in 1970 is visible in my garage. The second version is the one more commonly seen, typically available from MSA and others - and also directly from BRE. Note that BRE does not call the new model a Spook, they refer to their "Original Air Dam". http://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=B&Product_Code=bre_bodyparts_240zairdam&Category_Code=bre_datsun_body_parts Hope this helps. Jim

Nope, you do not have pull the dash but you will probably wish you had (just kidding). This is a PITA job because everything is tough to reach. Here are a couple of pics to let you know what everything looks like under the dash. The heater core comes out of the enclosure on the right side. Therefore, the blower must come out first: one hard control wire for the air inlet flap, electrical connections, 3 bolts on the firewall. After the blower is out, disconnect the flex hose (oval shape), hard control wire on the watercock, heater hoses from the firewall. Unbolt the watercock from the housing, then remove the elbow hose and watercock. Open the heater air flap using the dash control. There is a linkage wire inside to disconnect because the right side flap comes off with the right side cap panel. I think only one screw (visible on front) holds the right side cap panel in place. With the cap panel off, the heater core will slide out. Be sure to replace the short elbow hose (recommend the pre-bent one) and the watercock while you have everything down and consider replacing the heater hoses as well for the same reason. Hope this helps and good luck. Jim

You can buy a plastic plug that will fit into the rear of the transmission if you decide to drop the driveshaft. The shop that did my work had it on hand, I suspect it is a standard size item - not specific to Z's. Transmission/gear lube is especially smelly - it will PERMANTLY stain and smell any fabric it comes in contact with. Ask me how I know! Jim

Most of these clutches will bleed by gravity. Mine took about 15 sec. to flow with all new parts. Jim

Are you limiting your search to Canadian cars? Are there significant issues with bringing in a car from the states? If the import regs are not too difficult for an antique vehicle, look at some California cars that have a strong chance to rust free and not heavily modded. Jim

Check with Bryan Rolfe at Seatz Mfg. to see if has your white covers. All his work is restoration quality at competitive prices. Great products and great service. http://www.seatzmfg.com/seatz/index.htm bryan@seatzmfg.com Jim

And I thought it was bad when my car was held prisoner for 9 months! Jim

FWIW... this could easily be one of those "break your heart and bankbook" cars. I doubt that you will get out for as little as $15K on top of your purchase price - especially since you state an interest in restoration. Ask yourself what street value you will have when you finish and have invested all this money. I assure you it will be substantially less than your investment. Better to hold out and locate a car in much better shape as your starting point. Jim

Datsun spoor! Jim

+1 on Enrique's comments. Here is a link to several OE switches on e-Bay. They are also available direct from Nissan and others - MSA, BD, ..etc. Note that the 2-wire switch for the right side is NLA from Nissan, they stock only the 3-wire left side switch now for both sides (one wire is idle when used on the right side). http://motors.shop.ebay.com/eBay-Motors-/6000/i.html?_nkw=240z+door+switch&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_rdc=1 Jim

So... just how long are you going to keep us waiting for pics, VIN and build-date details??? Sounds like a great find with a nice back-story. Looking forward to hearing more about your project and progress. Jim

Your build date may be the issue. Check out the thread below to see if you are are dealing with the early style steering knuckles. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?40798-240Z-ball-joints Jim

Blue - your pic is of the left (driver's) side. You have three connections in this area: side marker light, power antenna, & radio speaker. I can't recall which pair does which and my car is all closed up now. The power antenna is probably at the end of the line, these are probably side marker and speaker. This should help you with a schematic search. Don't forget to check the supplemental FSM. Jim

Blue - I presume you have your interior dog-leg trim piece for the area below the quarter window. Hold that piece against its body location and you will see a notch for the wiring harness. That is the location for the for the harness to enter the body cavity on its way to the back. As to the door sill question - the harness runs along the inside of the car from the firewall back the point I mentioned. You should see some of the flat hold-downs along this path as it jumps over the two seat braces. When you finish, the harness will be covered by the pebble-grained vinyl trim that runs along the interior rocker panel. Jim

Tough to get those curves with aluminum! Jim

Blue - I recently had my original windshield and hatch glass re-installed by a pro who was well familiar with Z cars. Up front, he said he planned to use no sealants, only a generous use of soapy water to lube the gaskets into place. The gaskets I supplied were the PRP items sold by Black Dragon and others. FWIW. Jim