jfa.series1

The MSA (and BD) weatherseal items are typically from Precision Replacement Products and are generally well made. It is pretty well documented that the PRP hatch and door seals are considered "fat" and present difficulty in closing. You can try adjusting the striker on your hatch to get it down and then possibly assist it with a firm slam. Some time in your AZ sun will likely help with getting the new seal to relax. Your going to have to be patient with it - ask me how I know!

The link that Blue has provided came in shortly after I wrapped up my car but it turns out to be an exact match for how I did my replacement fuzzy strips (great minds think alike? ). A big caution for anyone going this route: the fuzzy strip is very close to the glass so it is critical that the pop-rivet be very well seated into the fuzzy material. It helps to actually tweezer out a bit of material (i.e. make a small well) after the hole is drilled to ensure the rivet seats as deep as possible. After the rivet is in, check for any burrs or sharp edges that might scratch the glass.

jcb and healyalt - I checked the BD site, the current parts offered are the same as when I purchased. No explanation for the difference in the coupe and 2+2 prices. Note that all are listed as "molding w/seal" so you are getting new stainless trim with a squeegee installed. The early 240 item at $50 each is exactly what I bought. Some searches on this site may turn up discussions where others found just the squeegee product elsewhere.

Yet another example of "no good deed goes unpunished!"

Not having a 2+2 at hand for comparison - if the squeegee length is the same for both models then you both are probably right. The squeegee-only option was not offered when I bought mine. Perhaps you guys can compare notes on your respective squeegee length and answer the question. Given the price, I suspect you are right it does not have the stainless.

Clearly we have different year models so no guarantee on availability on your car. I actually bought the replacement stainless with squeegee installed from Black Dragon, it is a nice looking part. The replacement does not have the door top curve already in it and rather than fight to warp it into place (and possibly bend it or screw up a new paint job), I opted to transfer the squeegee to my old stainless. Others on this board have found just the squeegee material elsewhere and may be able to chime in with sources.

I drilled 1/8" holes thru the squeegee and stainless, used aluminum pop rivets - probably about 6-8 per side. Its all back together so I can't check on the exact number.

I attached replacement squeegee strips with pop rivets. With a bit of care to make sure they are well seated, there should be no problem with scrapes against the glass.

Congratulations on your purchase and a big welcome to the group. As with any new member there is the obligatory posting of pictures lest you find your car missing one morning and being held for ransom until you post.

Pics, pics, pics! Oh, did I mention we want to see some pics? Welcome to the group and a return to your younger days.

Did you ever get your tire photo?

Welcome - that's a really nice looking car. +1 on Hardway's comments on the fuel smell. Bad seals around the taillights can also be the source of dangerous exhaust fumes. Have fun with the new ride.

Here's an old thread with some points of differing opinion. It may only add to any confusion. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/42832-blower-harness-connector.html

Here's my front and rear suspension shots showing the before, during, and after. I used POR's degreaser and Metal Ready products to thoroughly clean and neutralize any rust with a lot of wire brush action. I then followed up with Rustoleum Gloss Black. With that slick finish, everything wipes down very easily.

No good deed goes unpunished!

Nice pics. Something about that color just seems to catch my eye .

If your '73 is anything like the earlier models, pull the interior door panel and look at the mechanism for a tubular-shaped white nylon adjustor near the lock. It will be on a rod about 1/8" diameter. Move the adjustor further onto the rod in small increments until you get the needed movement on the key lock. Move it only enough for the key lock to operate smoothly, more is not better. When the door skin was replaced all the lock parts came out and this adjustment was probably changed.

Yep, we've already got a guy in Houston that cover that area only too well! I've got you in my watch list. Looks like I need to check out that Happy Rabbit.

Hey Carl, What's your seller ID? Share it with us so we can all check out your auctions. Jim

Hilarious! The bidding was started by the seller at $200. Then "another" bidder came in and in the space of less than 30 seconds entered 4 bids that now stand at $1,200. Shell game anyone?

OE is still available thru Nissan (new, not NOS), check with your dealer or contact Courtesy.

Actually, the use of reflective tape was handled by the folks at BRE over 40 years ago. When I bought my car, the dealer had already installed the BRE Spook and spoiler. The spoiler came with the DATSUN die-cut letter set done in 3M reflective material, the dealer installed the tape set after painting the parts in 920 Gold. BRE still sells the die-cut set today but it is no longer the 3M reflective tape.

That is a great choice as a reference!

You're thinking of something along these lines?

On the radiator support, yes - only the front side gets a blackout. Here are a couple of in-process shots of my front fender wells. I took the shock tower down to bare metal and POR-15'ed it, then masked that area and sprayed truck bed liner as an insulating layer. That will give you an idea of an all black fender well. Don't forget - mud and dirt also shows on black. I painted the shock tower and front side of the footwell with a special paint I had made up, then dusted the fender well with body color. I hope this helps a bit with your decision process.