jfa.series1

Clearly we have different year models so no guarantee on availability on your car. I actually bought the replacement stainless with squeegee installed from Black Dragon, it is a nice looking part. The replacement does not have the door top curve already in it and rather than fight to warp it into place (and possibly bend it or screw up a new paint job), I opted to transfer the squeegee to my old stainless. Others on this board have found just the squeegee material elsewhere and may be able to chime in with sources.

I drilled 1/8" holes thru the squeegee and stainless, used aluminum pop rivets - probably about 6-8 per side. Its all back together so I can't check on the exact number.

I attached replacement squeegee strips with pop rivets. With a bit of care to make sure they are well seated, there should be no problem with scrapes against the glass.

Congratulations on your purchase and a big welcome to the group. As with any new member there is the obligatory posting of pictures lest you find your car missing one morning and being held for ransom until you post.

Pics, pics, pics! Oh, did I mention we want to see some pics? Welcome to the group and a return to your younger days.

Did you ever get your tire photo?

Welcome - that's a really nice looking car. +1 on Hardway's comments on the fuel smell. Bad seals around the taillights can also be the source of dangerous exhaust fumes. Have fun with the new ride.

Here's an old thread with some points of differing opinion. It may only add to any confusion. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/42832-blower-harness-connector.html

Here's my front and rear suspension shots showing the before, during, and after. I used POR's degreaser and Metal Ready products to thoroughly clean and neutralize any rust with a lot of wire brush action. I then followed up with Rustoleum Gloss Black. With that slick finish, everything wipes down very easily.

No good deed goes unpunished!

Nice pics. Something about that color just seems to catch my eye .

If your '73 is anything like the earlier models, pull the interior door panel and look at the mechanism for a tubular-shaped white nylon adjustor near the lock. It will be on a rod about 1/8" diameter. Move the adjustor further onto the rod in small increments until you get the needed movement on the key lock. Move it only enough for the key lock to operate smoothly, more is not better. When the door skin was replaced all the lock parts came out and this adjustment was probably changed.

Yep, we've already got a guy in Houston that cover that area only too well! I've got you in my watch list. Looks like I need to check out that Happy Rabbit.

Hey Carl, What's your seller ID? Share it with us so we can all check out your auctions. Jim

Hilarious! The bidding was started by the seller at $200. Then "another" bidder came in and in the space of less than 30 seconds entered 4 bids that now stand at $1,200. Shell game anyone?

OE is still available thru Nissan (new, not NOS), check with your dealer or contact Courtesy.

Actually, the use of reflective tape was handled by the folks at BRE over 40 years ago. When I bought my car, the dealer had already installed the BRE Spook and spoiler. The spoiler came with the DATSUN die-cut letter set done in 3M reflective material, the dealer installed the tape set after painting the parts in 920 Gold. BRE still sells the die-cut set today but it is no longer the 3M reflective tape.

That is a great choice as a reference!

You're thinking of something along these lines?

On the radiator support, yes - only the front side gets a blackout. Here are a couple of in-process shots of my front fender wells. I took the shock tower down to bare metal and POR-15'ed it, then masked that area and sprayed truck bed liner as an insulating layer. That will give you an idea of an all black fender well. Don't forget - mud and dirt also shows on black. I painted the shock tower and front side of the footwell with a special paint I had made up, then dusted the fender well with body color. I hope this helps a bit with your decision process.

Lemon Ice sounds delicious, looking forward to a pic of the finished car. If you want to stay with a factory-style scheme, the car will be one color all over including underside, wheel wells, inside the shock towers, ...etc. I've attached a pic of the blackout for the radiator support. From the factory, this was a satin finish but I went with glossy for easier maintenance. I also went with a black underside and started it right where the firewall transitions into the tunnel at the tranny mounts. My wheel wells are body color, not black- it seems to highlight the wheels and tires better.. Your car, your choices.

This is not an Austin club event. This one is put on by the Z Club of Texas out of Dallas and the Cowtown Z Club of Fort Worth. Yes, the event is on and all drivers are welcome - especially those from Canada (the northern border of Texas).

Be cautious that the fabric may be sealed too well. Any cover that traps moisture within can lead to a buildup of condensation and encourage the tin worms to go to work. Car covers typically need to "breathe" to avoid a buildup of moisture.

Some bolts securing the front of the frame are behind the door panel - it must come off for this repair.

I was fortunate that my hardware was is good shape but the straps were faded. A bottle of RIT fabric dye in a bucket of water took care of the color issue.