jfa.series1

Here's a couple of reference pics for you. This is the PCV - Crankcase breather hose in place and the valve cover - air filter hose hanging loose at the top. In this pic the valve cover - air filter hose is connected. Look just to the left of the front carb and you will see a port on the back of the air filter with a black cover. That port is for a hose to the smog pump. When the pump is deleted, the air filter port needs to be blocked. That is the 1" chair leg cover that @siteunseen referred to.

Try furnishing your local automotive paint store with one or more of these paint codes: https://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?year=1970&con=y&make=Datsun&rows=50

Beautiful car! Congratulations on your most excallent work.

The hood latch male and female parts did change one time as of 05/72 and was the same for all following years S30's, the female receiver change is at the safety latch catch location. The male portion of the safety latch received a second spring at that time. The spacing on my car with the early latch receiver matches that of your 05/71 car. I'm still thinking through why your latch is binding when you pull the release.

We have a winner! The OER F390 is a perfect fit. It has a full length black metal backbone that slides nicely into the claws on the frame and the retaining clip locks it. Thanks to @SteveJ and @w3wilkes for the referrals.

I initially tried a set of those, the metal reinforcing ribs were too wide to fit my wiper frames.

Thanks for the links. Checking them both shows them to be 6mm width, mine are 3/8" - ~8.5mm. I'm going to look closely at the OER F309. It has a SS reinforcing rib but still might be narrow enough to work. As you commented on the Trico 44-180, no joy on multiple searches.

Yup, I found the same comments on Amazon. Look closely at the pic and you can see the stainless steel reinforcments along the backbone, common on most new blades. These SS ribs are typically too wide to fit the OE frame.

For those of us running the OE wiper blade frames, what are you doing for blade refills??? None of my area parts stores carry refills other than a Trico break-to-fit length that doesn't work. I've crawled Amazon and ebay, thought I had found a match with some NOS ANCO blades but no joy.

Consider warming it with a hair dryer or heat gun. It should get pliable enough to work into the proper position.

Whenever I see pics like these and others far worse I am reminded of how fortunate I've been to have a salt-free, garage-kept car all these years. The only rust on my car was some surface rust on the interior floor courtesy of the dealer-installed A/C unit. I am in awe of the skills and knowledge I see in making repairs like this.

If we look at the young people today - teens and twenty-somthings, it is pretty easy to see why this is a direction in which we are heading. Many of them do not know how to drive and don't want to. The total cost of ownership for a car is often beyond their means or not where they want to place a significant part of their income. They have found that a e-scooter or e-bike can meet a lot of neighborhood needs and they are comfortable with the economics of occasional ride-share services for longer distance needs. Long distance travel by car is boring when a cheap, off-peak airfare willl suffice and is much faster. Where enthusiasts see vehicles as inspirational, challenging, and enjoyable objects, we are seeing a new generation that sees them only for their utility value as a means of transport.

Nice job on the hatch trim! I went thru all of this years ago with all of the windshield and hatch trim, drip rails, door glass frames, and the quarter glass frames. In the absence of air tools I used an old high speed drill motor, 4" buffing wheel and jeweler's rouge. I ended up holding each piece flat on the bench with one hand and polishing with the other. Not always the easiest to handle but at least I didn't have parts flying around the garage. I also polished the aluminum door sill plates. I used small screws in the existing holes to fasten them to the front edge of the bench to hold securely in place.

There are two wires coming from the motor that are connected to the harness going to the switch. Disconnect the harness wires from the motor wires. Ground one of the motor wires and apply a 12V power source to the other wire. Listen for the blower motor to respond. If it works then your problem is elsewhere.

Rockers and nubs, note the burnt/worn nub at the top right that needs replacing. Buildup on the rockers that needs to be polished out.

The factory had shims that installed at the hinge mount points to correct the alignment when needed, sounds like it is time for one on your ride. I'll look to see if I have one in my collection of bits and pieces.

The two at the top right are the hood corner stops that get a rubber cover, install behind the rear hood seal. The bracket at the bottom right is for the flow guide valve under the ballast resistor. The two in the middle right might be for the wiper arm.

+1 on agree. I see it as a splash shield to keep excess water out of the door sill. Look at the outer hatch seal and you will see a similar function - it is the first line of defense for the hatch area, not a perfect seal but enough to deflect most of the water.

Here are a couple of good products for you - a high zinc oil and great transmission fluid for our old gearboxes. The old paint might benefit from a good clay bar treatment to get rid of old wax, dirt and other buildup, followed by a non-wax polish such as AutoMagic Awesome Gloss, topped off by the ceramic coat or wax of your choice. The clay bar process might leave a few swirl marks so the Awesome Gloss is a way to polish them out.

+1 on the Wesco Roadster Belts. Here they are installed on my car, using the OE mount points and bolts. Very comfortable to use, all the convenience of a modern 3-point retractable belt.

Attended a Z Club of Texas Fall Picnic yesterday, we are hoping to make this an annual event. Great weather and a really nice turnout. Yes, that is my fat finger in the corner of one pic.

Great looking car, congrats on your acquisition! You certainly picked the right color for your first Z and I'm not at all predjuiced, nope - not one bit! 😉 Welcome to the group, the source of lots of helpuful information and no snarky comments.

Correct, it is a toggle. There is a cam of sorts on the roller pin that flips from one side to the other. This in turn flips the contact rocker from one side to the other. I doubt that changing out the spring is going to have the desired effect since the phenolic board for the wiring is broken and moves every time the cam is flipped..

OMG... I didn't know that anyone else used this same Rube Goldberg technique as I did 13 years ago! With no car guys anywhere around, i had to single-hand virtually all of my assembly. Wierd creativity was sometime called for. 😉

Hey Steve, I'm drinking your kool-aid and changing out some bulbs for LED's, the sidemarkers and license light are done. My 204Z and presumably yours have a two-filament bulb for the front parkling light / turn signal. The amber LED in your list for front turn signal appears to have only a single pole. Is there a two-pole amber LED in your recommendations? Thanks, Jim VID_20231013_113401697.mp4