jfa.series1

Welcome to the group. Many of us followed your dad's posts before Christmas and we're very glad to meet you and your "new" ride. Speaking for myself and presumably others, I hope you'll make our forum a regular stopping point for your web surfing. This is probably the most helpful group you will come across. Enjoy the ride!

If you're thinking of doing some refurb and sale work, there's little on a 240Z that that won't have interest - in other words take everything you can lay your hands on. Work the car very hard! Here's a few examples of small stuff (be sure and get ALL the fasteners). Note - the rubber steering coupler is NLA, an uncracked one has re-sale value. Keep everything carefully zip bagged and tagged separately, don't throw it into a box and expect to remember what goes with what.

That's as far as I ever got with my old one - it was frozen solid, allowing NO fluid movement to the rear brakes. I was able to reach the core with long-nose pliers and pull it out to its stop point, release it, repeat several times - no improvement. I also soaked it in brake cleaner, no joy. A buddy gave me one from his parts car that works and is on the car now.

From the school of lessons learned, it is far easier to install the door window without the frame in place. Dropping in the frame after the window is in and settled in with the regulator is pretty straightforward. Also, by removing the frame you get to inspect all of the channel materials, replace as might be required. New ones make a world of difference in a snug fit for the glass.

Another welcome to the forum, lots of great help and resources here. On your profile, update your signature with your car's VIN and build date so that any tech questions will be more accurately answered. As Mark commented, we're all a bunch of voyeurs and we crave pics!

Be sure to compare the pressure plate in your new kit to the one coming out of the car. Specifically, measure the distance from the mounting surface to the "fingers" that engage with the throwout bearing. I ran into this issue years ago only AFTER I had it all back together and discovered the clutch would not operate correctly. Yes, the kit was correctly identified for my car - all stock and original tranny. The same situation occurred recently with a buddy doing a clutch job on his 260Z with a 280ZX 5-speed swap. He covered the question in advance with his supplier but the kit still had the same issue.

The initial post also mentions new struts - presumably that's new gas charged shocks. New shocks such as Tokico HP's now become an active part of the suspension, unlike the OE hydraulic shocks which were passive. A while back Carl Beck commented on this effect and noted he had measured as much as 60 lbs. of lift (if I recall correctly).

And now we better understand why most reputable tire stores don't want the customers in the shop area.

Hockey pucks! No... not an expletive but an answer. I have a set of four hockey pucks with a slot milled thru them to fit the body weld at the jack points. Useful for the floor jack, a lift, jack stands, ...etc. A cheap solution.

I have a theory on the item one question. Both parts catalogues are consistent in showing a rev date for the assembly and no rev dates for any of the component parts. My theory is that the change was in the method/sequence of the assembly and not in the parts. They assigned a new P/N to keep track of the change. Thoughts?

Got it - we're talking hardware, not software. Riddle me this: the assembly has a 7110 rev. date but none of the component parts. Interesting!

Re question 1: I use the online parts manual for most of my lookups, it shows a door panel assembly change at the '72 model introduction - 7207, items 11 & 12. I browsed around the various parts, found no references to 7110. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/body-240z/door-moulding-finish-arm-rest On question 3, my car (12/70) is a two-key setup. Probably too early for your transition comment.

The video shows three attachment points - top left and right, bottom center. They eliminated the lower left and right points.

My tupence worth: I see the advice from the sheriff and the appraiser as sketchy at best - its not their skin in the game nor do they have the final say. The only opinion that counts is your state's DMV! In my state, all title application inspections are handled by the Highway Patrol officers. They have an extensive listing of all of the locations for permanent VIN stamps, including the factory secret locations. Those are the only VIN identifiers that count. If you plan to move forward on a driver and not a parts car, check with your DMV before acting on it.

Arden, FWIW, here's a pic of my car taken in 1999 just before I tore it down for the resto. I'd say your test spray is pretty well on target. Jim

At least there will be bits and pieces that can benefit others down the line.

Ha! Given the starting point, there weren't too many options. At least one, possibly two coats of color overspray. Hoping to get this one good enough to go back in service somewhere.

Ready for primer!

IIRC, the bolt on the tie rod end is a taper fit into the steering arm. If you're not replacing the tie rods, put the nut back onto the thread before you whack on it. And... no, there is no bushing missing. The grease boot on the tie rod end usually expands to fill the gap.

That's a joke, right? I'm still soaking the two you included in the pkg., the nuts are well frozen to the threads but I'm hoping to get them free to have as spares. Canadian salt, eh? At least the four originals with this grill all came loose OK and will get well protected as part of the refurb. BTW - the vertical bars cleaned up very well with the sand blaster.

Not my car - some of my my rescued partZ. Working to rehabilitate a 240Z grill. A friend has a blasting cabinet so I was able to get all the small pieces easily cleaned up. The blades are too long for the cabinet, getting stripped with a drill motor and sanding wheel (not disc). Original paint plus one or two additional layers.

Since posting this earlier today I've determined I have two units covered by the recall - one for the home, one in the car. Be safe folks, check out those fire bottles! The process from Kidde will be to send me replacement units and instructions on what to do with the old ones.

I don't recall seeing this in a current post, so here is some important info for all. If you have a fire extinguisher in your home, garage, shop, car, or wherever, pay attention to this recall notice. https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2017/kidde-recalls-fire-extinguishers-with-plastic-handles-due-to-failure-to-discharge-and

Yeah Baby - Safari Gold rules! Charles - thanks for the notice.

In addition to the FSM as recommended by Steve, here's a pic that might help with the routing, ...and yes, I managed to score some new Nissan vent hoses a few years ago before they became unobtainium.