jfa.series1

If you have not already done so, download the FSM for your car - it will have your wiring diagram: http://xenonzcar.com/s30/files/FSM/1974 260z FSM.zip It definitely sounds like you have a dead short somewhere, that is why the PO cut the wires. Interesting that it does not take out a fuse, perhaps wiring somewhere is heating up to the point of separating and killing the circuit. Since everything worked one time when you made repairs and hit the combo switch suggests the switch is not the culprit.

Correct, the OE flashers are usually a aluminum can. They typically have a metal tab for a small screw to mount to a surface. The new ones usually have a plastic case, no mounting tab. You can glue a tab to the case for the mounting screw.

The OE cans are "thermal" - they use a bi-metal strip that heats and cools at differing rates depending on the flow of the electrical current. They usually operate more slowly at idle and then speed up as engine revs increase. The newer units are termed electro-mechanical, operate at a constant rate independent of the engine speed.

That same unit will also work for your hazard lights. That flasher can is mounted at the top of the passenge side kick panel. I switched out to these units years ago and love the performance improvement, all with incandescent bulbs.

Unless you have a particular interest in going with aftermarket carbs, the '70-72 240Z stock Hitachi carbs are a great fit for your car. Everything is readily available, including manifolds, linkage, and air filter box.

The full-length bulb-shaped seal is my own invention 12 years ago. I did not like the OE-style side seals just as you don't. I sent them back to MSA and purchased a second top seal and used sections of it as side seals to get a full coverage with a bulb-shape seal. Look closely at my pic and you will see the two ends butted together.

Good to hear that was glue on the inside and not rust. Installation of the outer hatch seal will be much easier with the hatch removed. Weatherstrip adhesive is the best product for these seals. Looks like you are making good progress.

The hatch has two seals - outer and inner. The outer seal is small and installs on the pinch weld seam aound the hatch. The top portion is usually bulb shaped to fit snugly against the hatch flange so rain is channeled to the sides and down to the slam panel. Your pics show this seal is missing. In my pic I also have bulb-shaped outer seal on the sides as well as the top. The rust you show inside at the hinge are suggests your hatch hinge boots are compromised and should be replaced. These plates are an important part of the hinge boot install. They fit between the hinge and the boot and prevent the boot from being distorted when the hinge bolts are tightened. Unfortunately the plates are not available as a separate P/N. They came to Nissan as an assembly with the OE boots. As to your squeegee strip install, pop rivets work very well to secure the rubber strip to the door trim. Space them about every 4". This is far easier than working wirh wire or attempting to re-use old staples. The same approach works well with the fuzzy strip at the top of the door panel.

Wow Cliff, you are really digging deep into the archives!

Here's your B-pillar piece: And here's your window frame piece:

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Indeed, I am 70+, probably a ++. 70 disappeared from my rear-view mirror quite some time ago! 😁

The years just keep on rolling by...

If you are on Facebook, look up Sal Ceja - he probably has all of the bits you are looking for. There are several Sal Ceja's on FB, his account will be the one with Z cars in the photos.

I have aftermarket belts from Wesco that are perfect for my car. I installed the Roadster Retractable belts years ago and am quite satisfied. The retractor is installed at the shoulder belt mount point above the quarter window. If you go with these, specify the 11" rigid sleeve for the buckle. No hardware kit is required and you can use your OE seatbelt bolts. https://www.wescoperformance.com

Sorry, no other pics or dimensions. These plates were sold several years ago. They are a thin material, should be pretty easy to fab up.

The boots were used on all S30's. The '77-78 280Z's did not list them as a separate P/N because the hinge and boot was listed as a complete assembly.

If you can be sure your car will NEVER, EVER get wet for any reason such as rain, car wash, or other situation, you can consider going without these boots. You are correct - they prevent water from getting into the hinge pocket in the roof section. Once water is in there you can be sure the rust worms will be hard at work! When replacing the boots, it is important to retain the metal plates that fit between the boot and the hinge. The plates prevent the boot from being distorted when the hinge bolts are tightened. The plates are NOT a separate P/N, they came to Nissan from the OE boot mfr. as part of an assembly. The plates are not offered by the companies now making the repro boots, must be reused from the owner's car or obtained from a donor vehicle.

The signature pic is from 2021, probably with the cut-down stock springs. Here is another view: This is an earlier pic with the Eibach's, just a tad lower:

The "stock" springs that were sold to you might have come from a later year and heavier car, i.e. a 260Z or 280Z. If so, that could explain the higher ride height. Cutting coils is certainly an option but it comes with a penalty of higher spring rates and a stiffer ride. Your best long term bet is to start over with a known product, Eibach Progressive and Voightland are a couple of options. I experimented with cut-down stock 240Z springs with two coils removed. It did lower the car some but the ride quality suffered so I returned to Eibachs that I had on hand.

The car is certainly the right color!

It has been over 10 years ago since I did this but as best as I can recall I installed the grommet and then fed the in-cabin connectors and wires through it one-by-one. No removal of connectors from the wires.

Also, the type A shift lever is straight while the type B shift lever is bent per your picture.

My opinion is that clear coat will enhance and give more "pop" to any of the OE colors. We would probably have to hear from some folks who have resprayed in single stage to get other viewpoints.

Consider that these cars were painted in a single-stage process 50 years ago. Most paint jobs these days are two-stage with the clear coat making a huge difference in appearance.