jfa.series1

I decided to refurbish a set of 240Z tail lights that came off a parts car and quickly hit the problem of removing the push locks on the back of the lights. Suffice to say, the pin snapped off flush with the back on each unit as I worked on them. Once the lens was separated from the back, removing the push locks from the other pins was pretty straightforward and nothing else broke. After the cleanup was done, it was time to figure out how to re-attach the chrome strip to the lens - including the center post. I checked this site and reviewed some efforts by other members but decided to go with something of my own design. The idea of a coupling nut was my focus but I could not locate anything suitable already pre-made so it was off to Ace Hardware for some on-the-fly engineering. Here's what I came away with: two nylon spacers, 3/4" L X 3/8" OD with a #8 hole; two M5-80 X 10 screws; two flat washers. Here's the process I came up with: Thread the center post with a 5mm-80 die down to 1/4" from the base, clip the post to 3/4" long and dress the end flat: Thread the nylon spacer with a 5mm-80 tap, The #8 hole is a perfect pilot size: Cut the spacer / coupling nut down to 1/2" L and fab a thin washer. I cut a slice ( <1/16" thick) from a faucet washer. The thin washer is important because a thick one will reduce the space available for your new coupling nut: Position the chrome strip on the lens, slip on the washer. Important: plastic on plastic can bind and you could snap the post when screwing on the coupling nut. Lube the threads on the post before installing the coupling nut: The 10mm screw is just a bit long for the thread available in the coupling nut so you can either grind off a bit of the screw or add a star washer to the stack. Assemble the lens and back unit, install the M5-10 screw with the washers and you are done: This post has been promoted to an article

Cliff - that is exactly the process I used for my install. Also - lube the filler neck a bit to make it easier to slide into the plastic tube as you raise the tank. Jim Phooey - just realized I am responding to an old post.

That's probably your emissions controls at work. A rapid deceleration can dump unburned fuel and other bad stuff into the exhaust whereas a slow decel. allows the combustion process to complete and make for cleaner exhaust gases.

That's an amazing find - congratulations. If you have not already done so, I strongly recommend you hook up with the Connecticut Z Car Club - CTZCC. You'll find a fine bunch of folks with a very strong affinity for the S30 series.

I've seen some recent comments that said the replacement panels need to be curved to match the original lines. One comment said to search for a donor car as an alternative.

Another possible clue: to the best of my recall, all the factory connectors in that area are bullet style, no spade style.

Get over to Hagerty and check the valuations on condition 1 cars. Given the upgrades on this car, I'm surprised the price isn't higher.

That looks like the correct item for the side glass seal - they do a good job of describing it. As to professional installation, I doubt that is necessary. The second item is at MSA and BD, you need a Left and Right. MSA offers you choices of Nissan or reproduction. Mine are the repro versions and a perfect fit. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic03a04/34-1105

Am I sure? NO - but you have my best guess at what else you need. Do you have the plastic rivets for the lower door seals and also for the door-to-fender seals?

Two items I don't see in your list: the side glass outer seal, often called the "squeegee" - it is attached to a chrome strip at the top of the door panel. Also, a small seal at the back of the door where the window frame meets the door. Check the BD site and you can probably identify these two items. The side glass seal is often sold attached to replacement chrome strips. The problem is the new chrome strip is straight and must be forcibly curved to fit the door - not an easy task and possibly damaging to your paint. I think some others have found the side glass seal available by itself - it can be attached to your chrome strip with small pop-rivets.

That's really nice work! If you can get that stuff in black, I suspect you would have a kit business ready to take off.

This is a heads-up to any of our South Texas members. Jason Winget is doing a circumnavigation of the U.S. in his '70 Fairlady. According to his FB blog post this morning, he has cleared Houston for ? Not sure if he is headed down the coast or west on I-10 to San Antonio. Jason is always ready to meet-up with fellow Z owners. You can reach out to him on his blog page or email at datjunky@gmail.com. https://m.facebook.com/profile.php?id=533477736801054

If you did not already have an idea on the original set-up, here's a pic of the stock plumbing when coolant is routed to the intake manifolds.

Really nice work, James. Anxiously awaiting the next installment - pun intended!

None that I am aware of. I know the originator of this one is focusing exclusively on 240Z's.

This info is from the Datsun 240Z Registry on Facebook. They've recently posted a matrix of the exterior/interior colors for the 240Z's. Your code was available from build dates 9/71 to 8/73. The info came direct from Nissan Service Bulletins. If you're not yet a member on the registry, please consider joining. It's an effort to locate all surviving 240Z's. https://www.facebook.com/groups/121977164809467/

I got a special dispensation from Frank T. - caught him in a weak moment. The next time you see him, ask him how he knows me. You do know the club has members all over the world, right?

Looking VERY good!

Glad to help a fellow CTZCC member.

Our VIN's are close enough together to have the same wiring. Tailights - only the top two bulbs light Brake, hazard, turnsignal - all three bulbs

Check social media - FB, Twitter, ...etc. 5 Joe Rawles listed on FB

Lets not be so quick to throw Courtesy under the bus. Perhaps the number of page hits on those sub-topics has declined to the point of no longer being supportable. They have always been a great supporter of all generations of Z cars; David and Butch have always been responsive in looking for parts for the older cars.

We really need to see the pictures!

Wishing all of our good friends in Canada a most Happy Thanksgiving!

Jeff - that's a great story, really well written. Pretty cool that you could track down the original owner, previously in California and now in the area close to your family. You've done a nice job on closing the loop on the car's ownership and history. Sorry to have missed you at C&C. We had a family event at my home that day to celebrate my Aunt's 100th birthday. As to the low turnout for Z's, our local club has gotten pretty well burnt out on C&C as the personality of the Plano event has significantly changed over the past couple of years. Regards, Jim