jfa.series1

Had to do this PITA repair so very many years ago. Possibly seperate the compressor from the bracket to increase manuverability of the bracket?

Awesome work Charles. All the credit for the paint products selection goes to @CanTechZ who did all the testing to make this possible.

Attended a Hagerty Cars & Caffeine event this morning, co-sponsored by Liberty Mutual and held in their parkling garage. Joining me were fellow members @Dens240 and @zed2. After the cars thinned out we were able to get our rides together for a pic. That is Dennis' beatifully restored blue over white '72 and Keith's very original '70 parked beside me. There was probably close to $5-6 milion worth of exotics at the gathering with a Ferrari F40 as a featured display car.

I can't be sure about your car but on my car there is a prewired pair of terminals just waiting for a switch to activate the fog light circuit. They were "concealed" by the Nissan blue tape marker for unused circuitry. If present in your ride, they could be used to trip a relay and avoid running new wires.

I suspect this is a vendor production line issue: think of a process where the pieces of glass are all oriented in the same fashion i.e. leading edge forward, irrespective of curvature. The etching process would always be presented with the same corner in the same position and only one etching line would be required. If the right side glass was to be etched on the outside a second etching line would be required for the reverse orientation of the glass. Work simplification, think W.E. Deming in Japan.

Unfortunately for you, the switch will never work correctly as long as the board that the wires are soldered to is broken. Pressure on the diamond-shaped rocker to press against the contacts on the board is always going move the board section out of position. Perhaps you can find a donor turn signal switch with the high/low beam switch intact and swap it out. The beam switch is the same for all S30's. I checked my partZ box, don't have one to offer.

Switching to LED bulbs will also lighten the load on the turn signal and hazard flasher cans. If you still have the OE thermal-style cans the flasher will likely not work. Switching both out to new electro-mechanical type units will take care of things. Something like this will work for both: https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/turn-signal-hazard-warning-flasher/p/novita-turn-signal-hazard-warning-flasher-el12/849385_0_0 I'm still running incandescent bulbs all around with relay kits, these type flashers work very well.

As is mine!

Don't overlook the possibility the combo light switch may be contributing to the problem. If the individual rocker and corresponding contact post are heavily carboned up that could be creating resistance that is backing up to the fuse block.

If you go back to my orignal post that started this thread, you'll find my coment that the OE housing has to be trimmed about 1/16" all aroound to accomodate the new squirrel cage.

All of mine have come from rotted out / damaged lights that I parted out. I have a small supply of the shorter ones.

NLA at Nissan. Not for the headlight, a thin gasket where the sugar scoop fits against the fender. They had completely disappeared from my car by the time I took it apart. I made no attempt to replicate for my build.

Not lubrication, just a stain on a very old switch. There is no lubrication inside the switch unless one adds a tiny drop of grease on the back of the rocker for the nubbin to rub against. As best as I can recall, that switch came out of #1818 that was parted out by one of our members.

It is a gasket between the sugar scoop and the fender.

Here's anothe pic that might help a bit. To @Zed Head's point, the switch on the left is the same as yours, on the right is a later design. On your switch the large gauge black wire on the senter post is headlight power in and the faded red/white heavy gauge above it is headlight power out. On the left side is the parking light circuit - solid green wire in the center is power in, the green/white wire above it is power out. The unwired posts at the bottom are for the off positions of the rockers.

There's no real telling where the issue is located. The blue/white wire across the switch is the washer circuit. You could gently move it to the side so as to open the switch. Installing the relay kit will certainly ease the power load on the switch but you still might be dealing with carboned up contacts inside and a less than optimum circuit.

You have to clean both the rockers and the contact posts on the circuit board. The springs and nubbins just move the rockers to the various positions to make contact between the rockers and posts.

The large gauge black wire on the center post is the high amperage power coming into the light switch from the fuse block, the small gauge black wire on that post is a jumper carrying power to the other side for the wiper switch. Smoke in this area says you have very high resistance either inside the switch or downstream in the wiring or at the lights. If you decide to open up the switch, I recommend you do so on a work bench topped with a soft towel. Tiny bits tend to bounce and run away on a hard surface - ask me how I know. Here's a pic of the small bits inside the switch box - rockers, tiny springs, and nylon "nubbins". You can see heavy carbon buildup on the rockers where they contact the posts on the circuit board. In the pic, one nubbin at the far right is actually melted from heat - it had to be replaced with one from a cannibalized switch.

I highly recommend you visit the POR 15 website to educate yourself on products for your repairs. As @Patcon recommended, once you remove all of the affected metal you need to neutralize any remaining surface rust. The POR product "Metal Prep" is one of those products and it leaves a protective barrier coating that is ready for your primer or other product. Here is your starting point: https://por15.com/

+1 on the Roadster Retractable belt with the 11" sleeve.

The quick answer is no, I have not tried these replacement squeegee trims. Years ago I ordered replacements from Black Dragon and faced the same dilemma of paint damage when trying to warp the trim into shape. I ended up removing the rubber squeegee and transferring it to my OE trim. Now you have an alternative from the folks at PRP: replacment squeegee rubber to install to your OE trim. Check out the YouTube video. BTW, this info came to me via our fellow member @zed2

I was pretty sure you would not be able to get the same products since they are for North American market cars. But at least you would get an idea of the process. The paint in your link looks to be a bit darker than the one I use. The Ford color is more silvery and has a very fine metalflake. The matte clearcoat removes the shine from the metalflake. Here are two pics of the Ford color, one in the sun and one in the shade so you can compare to your available paints. Hope this helps.

Here you go:

It would also help if we knew the exact tire size you have mounted, 15" is not enough info.

From the FSM: