jfa.series1

There you have it - the toggle switch mounted to the radio and controlled by a slider button that is on the top right of the radio faceplate Thanks George..

Historically, Nissan built the antenna switches into the radio faceplate for the 240 series. I've not seen a factory radio setup for a '73 so I can't guarantee this. Does your car have an aftermarket radio? If so, that might explain how your switch got evicted - especially if you no longer have a working power antenna.

That looks to be an exceptional value, it won't last long.

Your sale? eBay link?

That's a lot of good work - congratulations on your progress.

Here's a bushing list I worked up a few month's ago for a '72. The Nissan P/N's were all priced from Courtesy's site and probably still available. Non-Nissan P/N's were typically priced from Rockauto. I agree that the Zcar Source price is way out of line! Bushing List.pdf

Now listed as NLA for bidding. The VIN is 18642, probably a Jan. '71 build date.

Those two holes were probably for a trailer hitch.

It was bad enough when they announced the NISMO Juke. If the NISMO folks were willing to dilute their brand in this manner, who am I to comment. But... this announcement is outright sacrilege!!!

I presume you extracted some sort of blood oath from the buyer in regards to their new responsibilities to this forum.

Channeling SteveJ with my own valve cover project. This one came off a parts car and really needs a lot of work. Those baby buffing wheels do a pretty good job of getting into all the tight areas around the cast lettering.

The article says it all. http://www.forbes.com/sites/samabuelsamid/2016/11/10/nissan-to-launch-2017-juke-black-pearl-edition-at-los-angeles-auto-show/#44914e9e11dd

Your manual transmission is a Type "A", F4W71A. I've heard that rebuild kits are no longer available for that model. Additional details on that model are on Carl Beck's site here: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/69-83TrannyShifterDrawing.jpg

We've always known how smooth a inline 6 is and Mercedes Benz is going back to the future with this announcement. Given the relationship Renault/Nissan has with MB for the smaller 4-cylinder engines, might we hope to see one of these new monsters in a Nissan product? We can always dream of what might be! http://jalopnik.com/mercedes-brings-back-the-inline-six-with-408-hp-and-mar-1788404634

"rough condition price is final, no negotiation" - sounds like a really nice guy to do business with, NOT! I shudder to think what else is wrong with the car.

A brief article on his story: http://articles.latimes.com/2006/may/05/local/me-peterson5

Nice story, thanks for sharing it with us.

Hey Curtis, Thanks for the response. I'm looking for a 70-72 bumper, condition of the overriders and rubber is not important as I plan to have all holes welded closed then get it re-chromed. Straight is excellent! Some small pitting can probably be cleaned up with a drop of weld. I would appreciate any pics and your willingness to ship to 75082. If it looks good, we can do pricing via PM. Thanks again, Jim

Steve - I have a 4-speed I pulled from a 07/72 parts car, VIN 95652. It has a switch near the bell housing at the fill plug and another at the tail end above the speedo connection. I presume the forward switch is for the reversing lights and the rearward one is a neutral interlock. Jim

No need to remove any interior trim for the hatch seals work. The BD seals have typically been made by PRP, will likely be a bit fat and give you the push-back I mentioned. For the outer seal, get the one-piece unit from MSA.

Both the inner and outer hatch seals are far easier to replace with the hatch off. And if you're doing one seal , do both! If you decide to so, its best to remove the hatch from the hinge and leave the hinge attached to the body. The body attach points are where all the adjustments take place. If your hatch aligns well with the body, don't futz with the body mount. With a new inner seal be ready for push-back (literally) when you close the hatch - it takes a while for the seal to relax. A slight adjustment up to the striker loop on the hatch lock is usually called for and you can adjust it down over time.

I used an old, very clean cotton car cover topped by a couple of layers of old bath towels used for various garage projects. The bath towels will absorb any soft impacts. No dings, scratches or other miscues during the assembly process in my very crowded garage. Anything rubber might interact with fresh paint.

Mark - pull up the pdf file just below the last pic, all measurements are there. Jim

This is actually my second pass at this. Last year I ordered a unit from Futofab and had the same issue. Dave asked me to take a series of measurements of the car body and the OE bumper, which I did and documented back to him. He allowed me to return the bumper for a full refund including my initial shipping cost (quality guy!). I bought this one because of the crazy good price and the faint hope it might fit better. I've now learned that all of the bumpers sold by Futofab, MSA, BD, and perhaps others are coming from a single mfr. in Taiwan. Dave did additional research on OE measurements and got them to the mfr. for a revision in the specs. He recently told me he thinks revised bumpers will begin shipping sometime in Dec. At that rate, they'll probably be available in the U.S. sometime late 1Q. The problem will be with vendors clearing out old stock prior to shipping the new versions. How will anyone know what version they are getting? IMG_20160302_0001.pdf

Don’t go into a happy dance until you have read all of this post. I tried fitting the new bumper to my car and determined the curve of the center piece was not a good match for the back of the car. Note that the car is accident-free and all of the body is exactly as delivered from the factory. Essentially, the arc on the bumper is less than the arc on the body (and the OE bumper). When attached to the stock mounts, the center of the bumper was pressing hard on the body. I attempted to warp the bumper section to increase the arc with little success. I did manage to introduce some very slight waves in the center of the bumper’s top surface – not obvious but there if you look hard for them. While the unit may not be perfect for a concours car, it should be OK for any other. So… I’m done with this bumper and will continue to look for an OE unit I can refurbish. There is NO damage to the chrome finish and everything is re-packed in the factory shipping materials. The price is $150 plus actual shipping cost – FEDEX ground should be no more than $30 anywhere in the U.S.