jfa.series1

These shocks are inserts designed to be installed into your existing stock struts.

You mention getting Koni Reds but when I go to the Koni NA site and do a model search, there are are no products for any S30. Do you have a secret source?

With lowering springs you definitely want to add bump stops to the shocks. I did poly bushings all around when I redid my car, quickly regretted that decision and switched out to OE rubber everywhere except the front control arms where I have eccentric bushings for a bit of camber adjustment. You'll probably not find rubber bushings for the steering rack so be prepared for a bit of snap in the steering with the available poly versions. For a street car there is little need for a sway bar upgrade since you are lowering the car. Front strut mount bearings can be replaced if yours are dry or damaged in any way.

Congrats on the new digs. My long-time dream is a 3-car garage with a small cottage attached. Then my wife slaps me awake and says "You're having that dream again. It ain't gonna happen, deal with it!"

Steve - thanks for the link. I didn't hear back if he located a car but I'll get this one to him. Much appreciated. Jim

I did exactly the same thing years ago when I needed some brush-on paint for the interior.

I sprayed the front wheel wells with truck bed liner, then followed up with a light dusting of color. No problems with paint adhesion. I avoided the spraying bed liner in the shock towers as I did not want to provide a place for dirt, moisture, ...etc. to begin a build-up. The towers were done with POR-15 topped by brush-on color. Jim

I'm just hoping to be able to stick around to celebrate my own 50 year anniversary in a couple of years.

Probably not the best kept secret but today I spotted a Facebook post on the Middle Tennessee Z Club page. A member was answering a question about Z ATTACK occurring in 2019, this was the answer: "Z ATTACKS were staged at Nissan HQ in Franklin in 2012, 2014 and 2017. We're skipping 2019 so we can help with ZCON in 2020, which will be the 50th anniversary of the Z and will be at Nissan." You heard it here first!

Other than primer of your choice, I use a process developed by one of our forum members: Duplicolor BFM0360 FORD DARK SHADOW GRAY, topped by Duplicolor HWP106 WHEEL MATTE CLEARCOAT. Here's a closeup pic of a grill I've done to show the color.

That rear valance is looking a bit like FrankenZ with all that stitching! I've always been too chicken to try and remove the stainless trim on the rear finisher. I choose to blue tape it for my refinish work. Two sets completed and on the shelf now.

I'm not a body guy but it might be that when you removed the rear panels it released some tension that resulted from the collision.

Pretty awesome work! Clearly time-consuming and often frustrating.

WOW - that's a pretty impressive group of friends you're hangin' with! Great pic, thanks for sharing.

Many thanks for the referral. I'll get it passed along to my buddy.

Still looking. @Hardway @Mike W Jeff or Mike - any possibilities in your area? Thanks, Jim

You really want the torsion bars in place to help you manage the hood weight. Getting the hood down is a process of adjusting the hood hinges. You might want to consider removing the grill for the process but its not absolutely required. Loosen the bolts holding the hinges to the body so the hinges can float a bit. Lower the hood fully but not latched, then push down on the hood front to get the hinges to settle into position, hold it there and tighten the bolts (that's why having the grill out helps). This is your up/down adjustment for the hood. The bolts that secure the hinges to the hood are your fore-and-aft and side-to-side adjustment to align it with the fenders. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the response. So as not to interrupt the holiday, I'll give you a call tomorrow if OK.

A friend is looking for a 240Z roller or shell (260Z/280Z need not apply) to convert to a track car. Drivetrain and interior not required but the body must be complete. Any leads in a roughly 300 mile radius of Dallas would be appreciated. You can PM me with details. Thanks, Jim

PM sent.

Great looking little car, can't wait to see more pics. Clearly your Datsun addiction is spreading.

Fixin' and y'all - two great words in our proud Texas vocabulary.

Mark, The catalog shows no changes to regulators, locks, or other parts during the switch from early to later 260Z: http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/Datsun-Z-Index/Body-260Z-280Z/2-Seater/Door-Lock-Regulator-Handle

From the online parts catalog for 260Z/280Z: RH 80700-N3400 to 7607, superseded by 80700-N4400 eff. 7608 LH 80701-N3400 to 7607, superseded by 80700-N4400 eff. 7608 The comment by @Mark Maras is spot on regarding the part # change You are correct that the 240Z regulators are a different P/N. BTW - my limited experience with regulators shows the P/N is usually stamped on the part.

Nissan "generally" observed month 08 for the start of most model year changes, emphasis on "generally". Titleing cars is left to the states so we find some of the earliest 1969 production cars built in month 10 titled as 1969 models and others as 1970 models. Your 10/70 build was most likely titled as a '71, I would expect your search thru the papers will confirm the actual detail. That is a great car, congratulations.