jfa.series1

I forgot this one, a wheel offset calculator. http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp Jim

Here is a site that provides a tire size calculator. Enter your original stock wheel and tire size info, then try out various replacement sizes to compare the impact of the change, including changes to your speedo reading. Hope this helps. http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html Jim

If your mechanic is reporting a camber issue, that might mean worn shocks or sagging springs. If it is a toe in/out issue, its possible you have worn bushings on the lower control arm (also called transverse link) or a bent LCA. Like Steve recommended, share some numbers and you can get better insight. Jim

Hey Danny, You are lucky enough to have picked up a relatively scarce Series 1 car in what looks to be excellent condition. Be sure to share the VIN and build date with all of us. As to your refurb work, you have a couple of directions to go: restore to original "as-delivered" condition, or restore/refurb to a thoroughly updated car. Option 1 can be mind-numbing expensive and frustrating as you search the world for those NLA parts. It would be easy to wrap up $30-50K in a resto to "original" and it might take 2-3 years to complete such an effort. Option 2 is far less intense and less costly to pull off but you will potentially get some flak from purists who see every Series 1 car as only worthy of a full resto-to-original effort. Always remember - this is YOUR car to enjoy as you see fit. Do what makes YOU happy and proud of your car - you don't have to live up to the expectations and demands of others. On your current work here are a few suggestions: throw NOTHING away, no matter what condition it is in. Label/tag/bag everything that comes off the car. Get in a good supply of zip bags and a Sharpie; bag and tag EVERYTHING that comes off the car immediately as it comes off - even if it is a single screw. Don't rely on your memory to go back and do it later. Get some string tags for the electrical connections and tag both ends of each plug or terminal as it is pulled apart. Finally, pick up some books and manuals: the two factory manuals if you can find them (engine & body), a factory parts catalog, a couple of resto books (no single book is perfect), perhaps a couple of repair manuals, ...you get the idea. Others on the board can give you great feedback on books, etc. Good luck, and be sure to have fun along the way. Jim

Most licensed shops today can't/wont touch the old single-stage paints due to regulatory issues - way too many VOCs are released. I only mentioned it because it is still available to the DIY'rs. Your 920 Gold effort is looking outstanding! I hope to see mine back from the paint shop in about a 3 weeks. Jim

A member from the NE messaged me about his difficulty in locating a supplier for 920 Gold. I use a local auto paint supplier that is a PPG outlet, this color formulation is in the PPG computer. It is available in the old single stage acrylic enamel as well as the more current two-stage finishes. Jim

Adam is very interested in hearing about other NLA parts that he could mfr. Contact him with your ideas and needs. Jim

For of you S30 owners with busted or missing fresh air elbows, this just might be your perfect solution. I placed my EBay order Friday A.M. and the shipment arrived in Saturday's mail - USPS Priority. Keep in mind, Keller TX is only about 50 miles away from my home. These parts are simply outstanding! Each was wrapped in a foam envelope to protect the finish and a tiny bag of replacement screws & washers was enclosed - all nicely yellow cad plated. The bracket and internal brace are correctly finished, the plastic material looks to be slightly thicker than original - will certainly last another 40 years. Here is a shot of the new and old parts. The guy mfg. these is Adam Weber, his email is aweb1492@yahoo.com. This was a limited production run to gauge the marketplace interest, lets all show him some love. Jim

The wire brush, Marine Clean, and Metal Ready can be completed as fast as you can work. Metal Ready must be thoroughly washed out with water to neutralize the acid and let the zinc phosphate residue to setup in the drying process. I recommend at least 2 days of drying with very good air circulation. If you decide to use the POR-15 products, be sure to download ALL instruction sheets from their site. FOLLOW ALL INSTRUCTIONS!!! POR-15 paint is VERY viscous - it runs as fast as a kid to candy and it will easily pool on any flat surface. Be sure to follow the instructions on closing the paint can with a layer of plastic wrap. You probably want to allow 2-3 days of drying on the POR-15 paint, again with good circulation. I had no trouble with my color-coat adhering to the POR-15. A little Penetrol in the oil-based paint gives it excellent flow qualities, aids drying. A couple more days of drying for the color-coat. You are probably looking at about 1 week total if you stick with the job. Jim

As a card carrying member of the "been there, done that" club, every bit of the advice above is spot on! You need to inspect all of the floorboard area for damage. And while you are at it, look for one or more entry points for the source of the water - base of windshield, all firewall openings, A/C, ... you get the idea. A wire brush wheel on a drill motor is great for breaking loose all the build-up. Vacuum out all the loose stuff, then hit it with Marine Clean followed by Metal Ready. Let it dry thoroughly for a few days before applying POR-15 paint. Here is my photo log of the process on my car. A tip from my brother-in-law: for non-critical areas, consider getting paint tinted to match your car color at a big-box store. I used my inspection lid as a source color. Since the floorboards are fully covered, they count as a non-critical visual area. This is a pretty easy fix as long as no major damage is discovered. Remember - RUST NEVER SLEEPS! Good luck. Jim

Many thanks for this post. I just placed an order for my resto project. Jim

Another consideration on non-OEM hoses: you are dealing with three different ID's on the fuel tank vent hoses (at least on my car). A check of your vapor tank will confirm your situation. If you do replace the lines,OEM or other, there are two rubber grommets where two lines enter the passenger compartment near the tail lights. These help seal out exhaust fumes, ...etc. They are available at Banzai Motorworks. I don't think you should consider doing without the vent lines in place.

The purpose of the tank is to collect the fuel vapors coming from the fuel tank and avoid pressure buildup. Check the plumbing, you likely have three vapor lines coming into the collector from different points on the fuel tank. There should be a fourth line, much smaller, at the top of the collector tank that connects to a hard line going back to the engine to burn the vapors. The three main vapor lines will cost about $210-225 to replace (parts cost only at Courtesy Nissan). I just picked up mine this week as part of my resto project. Hope this helps.

To the best of my knowledge, the original hydraulic shock inserts supplied at the factory cannot be rebuilt, only replaced... if you can find them (and yes, some are still around). My recommendation seconds others above: go with the newer gas-filled insert cartridges. If you decide to go with lowered springs, be sure the new gas shocks are compatible, such as Tokico HP. Not all brands work with lowered springs.

If it is the flat panel that has the hatch striker you are looking for, try Banzai Motorworks - item BO-56, for a replacement panel. http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catBits.php

So glad to see you bringing this classic back to its original 920 gold. Awesome effort! FYI - HLS30-01228 lives just up the road from me in Plano TX, is also 920 gold and is going thru its own restoration to original (my car is also 920 gold).