Gary in NJ

I saw the premiere episode. I'm not a fan.

Don't forget to add that they rust fairly quickly unless coated.

Those are very kind sentiments James given the year your country has had. I'm sure you know first hand what this is like. I can not begin to imagine what it is like to live in the aftermath of such a devastating natural disaster.

I saw a Z advertised the other day as "off-frame restoration". Really? Really!

A leak down tester is the tool you are looking for. You'll need an air compressor to use this. I'm with Leon on this, if the engine is running it sounds like test error.

Holy triple post Batman! The website hung-up as I posted the first reply and took each "refresh" as a request to post. Sorry

Double post

Welcome to the site. An L28 engine swap is fairly common. The L28 came with Bosch J-jetronic EFI. Retaining the carbs on this swap was the correct way to go. Looks like you have the wrong tube going from the carb float chambers to the nozzle. The one on the aft carb looks like it could pinch with the choke engaged. That is a special tube. Bruce can hook you up.

After hearing stories about stress cracks in the exhaust stack in aircraft similar to my homebuilt I decided to use a ceramic coating on the exhaust system. I was simply amazed with how the coating pulled heat from the exhaust. Moreover, I have well over 1,000 hours on the cross-over system with zero problems. Others I know with the same exhaust system have had failures within a few hundred hours. Ceramic coating works.

When I changed my thermostat last summer I was surprised with the amount of corrosion on the bolts (one of them snapped - that's always fun). In the end I decided to replace the bolts and housing. I would strongly recommend that you use your favorite bolt-loosener liquid (I use ATF & acetone) before removing the bolt and never-seize on reassembly.

We'll need photos for the final decision.

- Float height adjustment? If the gap is too wide you will starve the carb. - Pinched or restricted fuel tube (the one between the float chamber and nozzle)? - A suction piston that gets hung-up?

I'll take the one behind door number 3 please.

Any 240Z manifold will work. Contact ZTherapy as I'm sure they have a few on-hand.

I'm not a fan of the bumpers on the 260Z and 280Z. I'm on the lookout for a 260Z or 280Z project car and one of my first mods will be the elimination of these appendages. I'm thinking about front and rear covers such as the "Stage II" or "Stage III" kits that MSA carries.

Now that's funny right there.

It's ethanol, not acid. Disuse is more damaging then bad fuel. That and these are 40 year old cars after all, they need some attention from time to time.

My suit is black, not.

It's actually a funny post if you read it in the Natasha voice from the Bullwinkle cartoons. It's less funny in a Vladimir Putin voice.

Well that's a good safety feature..now you don't have to worry about the brakes. Congratulations. Now you're down with the sickness.

My garage has always been my hobby hut. It has morphed along with my interests. 1989 - 1994: Built an airplane (RV6) 1996 - 2009: Motorcycle Mania. At one time I had a dozen bikes (GSXR1100, SV650S, VTR1100, YZ250F, KX125, KDX200, KX100, KX65, XR70, XR50, TS-185 & TRX-250). I started selling 'em in 2008 and sold the last one a few months back. 2010 - now: 240Z and I'm looking for a 260 or 280 project. Over the years my garage has also served other functions like a temporary wood shop or band rehearsal space. My garage is MY room in the house; the floor is always clean and it is always organized.

How do you "know" that? Did you perform a load test on the battery? Just because the battery can hold 12.6VDC or more doesn't mean that it can supply the necessary current to crank over a cold engine. Have you put the battery on a charger or tried jump-starting the engine?

I'd pass, afterall it's a ZX.

Have you put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel line to confirm that the pressure is dropping during operation, or are you assuming that is the cause? You may have a vapor lock issue within the tank and fuel lines (and yes, the evap system). Try starting and running the engine with the fuel cap removed. In fact, if there is a rush of air when you remove the cap, you do have a vapor lock issue. You can check the float height (and changes thereto) by making an external float height gauge with some clear tubing. An idling engine should not produce a significant change in the fuel height within the chamber.

A compression tester and a leak-down tester are two different tools. The compression tester uses the pressure within the cylinder (through aspiration) to check the total pressure within the cylinder. It is a dynamic test of the cylinder and combustion chamber. A leak-down tester uses external pressure from an air compressor. Since the piston is held in place (or selectively moved for advanced testing) during the test this would be considered a static test of the combustion chamber. With a leak down test you can determine the cause or source of any failed or out of tolerance components. While more difficult to conduct and more time consuming to perform, a leak down test is a more useful tool for diagnostics.