Gary in NJ

Check the Zcar Registry to see if it's listed there. There were about 150,000 240Z's imported into the USA (another 10,000 in Canada) from '69 through '73 and about +90% of the 240's are gone for good.

Eric, You are more then qualified. Contact Z-Therapy and order their SU Carb DVD. It will teach you everything (and more) you need to know about the SU's. These are stone-simple constant velocity carbs. I've worked on multi-carb set-up on motorcycles for years and these are much easier. Also, while you're ordering stuff from ZT, get: - two carb bowl gaskets because you will at least want to check your float height. - A UniSync to sync the carbs Driving a Z is nice. But once you begin to work on one it really gets into your blood.

Eric, If you pay others to work on your classic car, the costs will eat your lunch. If you have any mechanical ability, take the time to learn to do the simple things like adjusting the carbs, adjusting the valves, setting the points & dwell and the timing. There really is a lot to that old saying, "give a man a fish and he'll eat for a day, teach a man to fish and he'll eat for a lifetime".

Now that you've posted photos... Welcome to the forums. Good looking car you have there.

$3,000 for that car, in the NE is would be about right. For a CA car, it's over priced.

Photos?

Proper torque ensures: - That you wont snap/distort the fastener; - The bolt/nut wont come loose; - You'll be able to get the bolt/nut off without undue effort. When I can't use a torque wrench, I have to rely on my experienced arm which has been known to snap bolts & over torque nuts. There have been plenty of times that I've walked a field looking for parts to my tractor or dirtbike. I much prefer the wrench then my experienced arm.

The only Z related item I received was a Datsun cap.

...or cause the car to not even start.

OK, so now you know you have; - a dirty (soot) suction piston - a flaccid spring - a misaligned needle, or - a clogged nozzle, or - a jet with a burr, or - a combination thereof.

Time marches on...but not for our 30/40 year old cars. They a locked in a 1970's time-warp. It's for that reason that "modern" oils do not work well with our engines. The oil companies simply aren't investing in the products we require. It's all about energy conservation now. The closest oil you will find to what was available in the 70's and 80's is Shell Rotella T. I can't believe I just threw the first salvo in an internet oil debate...please forgive me.

Most Holley conversions were done by people that simply couldn't figure out the SU's. I'd track down an SU set-up. That would be the best option.

Bad throw out bearing? Does the bearing whine?

Disconnecting the battery is a good idea. With the plugs removed, you wont need much more then a 1/2 drive socket, but the breaker bar will make it easier. I'm at work, so I'm guessing here, but I think it's 35mm. Passenger side. As mentioned above, go to Sears and get a set of metric Crows Feet. Use the lower value on the Torque Wrench because the longer arm of the crows foot wrench requires an off-set value. Simple. Look at the valve and see whats across from it. If it's the exhaust manifold its and exhaust valve. If it's the intake manifold it's an intake valve. It's a "warm" adjustment. Removing the valve cover only takes a few minutes. Take your time, it doesn't have to be hot. Lefty loosie, righty tightie. Lefty loosie, righty tightie. This is the step where a third hand is...well...handy. If you have a helper, have that person hold the adjuster steady as you simultaneously move the feeler (to feel if it's getting tight or loose) and tighten the lock. If you are on your own, watch the feeler as you hold the adjuster and tighten the lock. If it moves up, it just tightened on you and if it sags it went loose. Know this - this is an easy job and when you develop the "feel" for it, it's actually fun. You'll probably do the first few valves over when you finish the job because by the 12th valve you'll have the drill down.

Welcome back. I just sold 11 motorcycles, it's the first time since I was 7 years old that I'm bikeless. The 240Z is the lone toy in my toybox. Hobbies/toys come and go. Glad you found your Z('s) again. BTW, I'm not too far from you near Washington NJ.

Amen Sister!

We've been suffering with E10 for a few years now. You don't need to make any changes to the engine, but you do have to plan how long the fuel will be in your vehicle. E10 has a very short storage life, especially in climates with high humidity. Fuel can go bad in as little as 90 days.

Now there's a horrific mental image if ever there was one. Been there, dented that. Those are the character lines on a cars face that make the vehicle yours.

If it's going to be a daily driver, get the gray car (Touring). The 370 is a great car and a nice addition to your S30.

Nothing better then a free Z. Let us know what you need to get 'er runnin'.

I'm a simple man, so I use a simple test for spark: 1. Remove the plugs from the head; 2. Insert the plugs into the ignition wires 3. Rest the plugs against the head or block (don't hold them, let gravity hold 'em) 4. Have someone crank the engine while you watch the plugs for sparks Works for lawnmowers, motorcycles and yes, even cars.

It snowed a little last night; which means my town put down a LOT of salt and sand. And with that, my Z is officially put away for the winter. But that doesn't mean the fun is over. On the contrary, the fun just begins because I enjoy working on the car as much as I enjoy driving it. On the list for this winter: - Set the float heights as per the 1973 TSB for a '72 240Z; 12mm for the rear and 16mm for the front (they're both 14mm right now); - Paint & install the RT Mount; - Replace Inner Shift Boot; - Investigate and repair non-functioning horn; - Replace some firewall grommets; - Fix right window movement (doesn't lower the last 2 inches); - Send Clock out to ZClocks - Find out where the window washer bottle is leaking and repair/replace I may also remove the carbs and polish 'em up and properly close-off the unused ports on the balance tube.

A solid "thunk" is a good thing. Hopefully you're on your way to trouble-free SU's.

It's done. It's so done that its for sale.

Patcon, I host my photos on Photobucket.com. Welcome to the forums. Even for us long-time Z owners there is a lot of great info on this site.