Gary in NJ

I've had luck in my hangar with a calico snake and a wooden owl.

OK, got ya. It's at that point of restoration where it looks like more harm then good

Welcome back. Do you have the photos backwards?

B-string

I would expect that after installing headers a full carb adjustment would be in order.

No advice, but maybe a relevant story... A friend of mine had a "hard" landing (slow crash) in his RV4 experimental aircraft that ended with the aircraft up-side down. There was major damage to the fuselage and VS, but no damage to the engine and wings. As an aircraft builder myself, I helped him rebuild the aircraft during the winter. He got enough test-flight time during the spring that he was able to make a long trip to Oshkosh, WI for an airshow later in the summer. During the trip he ran out of fuel and had to land on a highway. No damage and no problems as the local police allowed him to take-off from the highway (very unusual, but it happens). When he got home we did a drain/fill test of the wing tanks. The capacity that was 16 gallons per wing when the aircraft was first finished was now 12 & 14 gallons - almost an hour less fuel then he thought he had. We looked inside the tanks with a boroscope to see if something had gotten in there to take up the space. All was clear. Then we made a full sized wooden template of the wing to check it's shape. Sure enough, the bottom of each wing tank was pushed in about 1/2" to 3/4". It was very hard to see looking down the length of the underside of the wing, but with the template in place it became very easy to see. When my friend had the "hard" landing, the wheels came in contact with the wing tanks; changing their shape and therefor their capacity. So it is possible that the tank "looks fine" but is in fact miss-shaped. If not, you got to read an interesting story

The car sits well for a 280. It looks like it's already been lowered. Why muck with the suspension? Oh yeah...welcome to the club.

I would not use fix-a-flat. It gums-up the inside of the tire and rim. The rim becomes a pia to clean after using that stuff.

Well, now I HAVE seen it all.

Outstanding. Looks about 3 feet deep.

Did anyone happen mention that you can put the t-stat in water with a thermometer How unlucky for the responders; three replies at the same time. At least the advice is consistent.

Search is your friend. It's all well documented.

Well I'm glad he's gone. I can't afford his cents of humor.

It's the axle shaft joints (CV joints).

AJ, you may need to find a parts car. I haven't seen a Z in a yard in a long time.

Congratulations. I too fell in love with the Z when I was in college...30 years ago.

Valves are at the top of the engine, oil sits in the bottom of the pan. No need to drain the oil. By the time you get to the last valve, you'll be an expert and will want to recheck them all.

Might as well just replace them all, they're inexpensive. Yes, drop the pan and you will have easy access.

I was thinking of that, but wouldn't that result in a wide swing in rpm's? It would certainly make a clanking noise. I was thinking that it might be one of the linkage arms or possibility the flapper valve on the airbox.

If you have power at the battery, bench test the starter to determine if the unit functions.

Can you post a video of the slapping in action?

Are there any rpm fluctuations associated with the slapping?

Welcome. I like the cars in your signature, with the exception of the MPV. But we all have to deal with minivan ownership at some point.

Welcome. Where in North NJ are you located. I'm in Warren County and there are few others in the NWNJ area. BTW, I can't see any of the photos.

Those are some very important parts. I wouldn't mind a refresh on my radio/HV controls. I'm afraid to see the prices...