Mike

The deals you guys make outside this site should always be considered risky until you've covered yourself. Never give someone product until you verify that their money is good. Never never never..... Trade good money for product. In your situation, I would have verified the funds and then sent the car only after you are holding the cash in your hand. Make sure the check is good by asking the bank to verify it. This may or may-not be a scam, but, if someone says, "send whatever is left along with the driver," I would be cautious. Most people want to know exactly where their money is going. So, this sounds like a scam to me. Make it easy on yourself. Tell the new owner to pick up the car himself. Then he can decide how to ship it. You can also hire a service to act as a neutral party. This service will take his money and verify that it is all good. Upon confirmation that his money is good, you ship the car knowing that they have the cash. Upon his receipt of the car, they will release the funds to you. Check ebay for services like that.... With something as important as a car, I would always use that kind of service. For what it's worth... -- MIke

I don't understand you guys sometimes. Why would you want to ship something and actually LOSE money? What's the point? If the guy posted his shipping fees up front, then what's the big deal? If he's selling this stuff to make a profit, he probably wants to feed his family. The key here is... if it was posted in the auction before the bidding began. If it was something he threw in at the last minute, then that's another story. The shipping fee shouldn't change depending on the auction results. -- Mike

This is one of my 'do it right or do it again' words of wisdom. I have a '71 and learnt the hard way. First time, I removed all shafts and pulled out the ujoints myself. Purchased cheap replacements and put them in myself. Had to replace those again in a year. So, I paid someone to do it the 2nd time. But, purchased cheap joints. Another couple years... did it again. This time, I had someone install them and I purchased stock ujoints (paid the price). So, go get GOOD u-joints and pull the shafts yourself. Take the shafts down to a local shop and let them press 'em in.

The easiest way to flip the timing 180 degrees is to simply change the position on the distributor cap. Don't pull out the oil pump and all that..... I had a problem with my L24. Engine builder put the timing in 180 off and I couldn't figure it out. Once I flipped the plug wires on the distributor cap... it started right up.

... you have more than one Z car. ... you might have more than one Zcar, but, only one of them runs. ... your credit card statement is over 50% Z parts. Got any more?

Damn right chicks are EFFED........... the good ones are hard to find.

I'm a fan of the dual stripes down the center. Similar to Steve's car... (but, the bumperless look has got to go)... On my yellow Zed, I was thinking about dual black stripes down the center.

Nice looking Z. Is Michigan part of the 'rust belt' and does it have any rusty areas?

Not sure if they would fit, but, the definitely look great. Will they give you money back if they don't work? I'd love to know what you find out because these are really nice. The left foot rest is huge and might not work on the stock small unit.

Looks like they are in your gallery. Good job on uploading them. If someone is interested, click the "MY GALLERY" link under wondermutt's name to the left of the thread.

Can you upload a few picts here so we can see the car?

If some of you remember, I had been given a 280z 2+2 last year. The previous owners were moving to the Dakatoas and wanted to give the car to someone that would appreciate the Z. Well, I got the car back to my house and had her running in a few days. Only I found out the next day that something was terribly wrong... starting her I heard some pretty large banging noises. I finally got around to pulling the head this weekend and found out that my valves were sticking. The cylinders were coming up and hitting the valves. This was mainly a problem on #6, but, #4 also showed signs of sticking valves. The damage is not bad. The cylinder is barely touched and the valve looks fine. But, I wonder what I should do now. Do you think I should get the head rebuilt and try again? Or should I have the whole engine done? If I do the whole engine, I might as well purchase a rebuilt ATK engine and do this one on my own as time permits. Anyway, pictures will be coming.

I don't have any tips, but, I'd like to know how your project is coming along. I'll be working on wiring as well.

Yea, that was a good one.

Zme, this is a kick arse mod.. but, it would be considered commercial posting if you are making profits on it.

Ok, no issue.. Just thinking out loud...

I was offering in case it was located in Oregon.

Where is the car? Is it in Oregon? You might want to suss out that title before anyone buys it from you becuase that doesn't look good on an auction. If the car is in Oregon, I might be able to help.

Nope, not a bad trade off.. They could probably prevent it, but, like us they might not have the ability w/out making everyone else on the site pay for it as well. I could lock down our images here, but, that would require people to log in before they could see our image gallery. I don't mind the leeching from other sites, but, when their links change, this thread will look like a bunch of broken 'X's'... FYI, leeching means that we are displaying their images in our site, but, they remain stored at their server. Thus, sucking their bandwidth.

Does dribbleglass.com like us leeching their images?

I'd love to have a 3D model of the Z to use as a 'model' for our web graphics. If you get this done, there might be a Zcar Microfiche CD in it for you.

Yea, I'll host it here on our site. I can put it in the downloads area so it will be easy to find. Go ahead and send it to me. I'll send you a private message and give you my email address.

Follow the lines... but, if you are standing looking at the engine from the front of the car, the filter will be to your left near the wheel well.