Zed Head

Potential power outage from the storm probably didn't help the stress level.

Does the steering wheel move when you do that? If not, not good.

As Eurodat said, you'll rarely see the 36 psi unless you open the throttle wide. The simplest check is to follow the FPR vacuum hose to where it attaches to the intake manifold and remove it from the vacuum nipple. Temporarily plug the hole in the manifold to avoid a high idle and start the engine. Then you should see 36-38 psi on the gauge. 25 psi at idle is very low, even with very good intake vacuum (implies 22 inches of vacuum) so you might have something weird going on. When you remove the vacuum hose check it for gasoline. If it smells like fuel or has liquid inside, that's a problem.

The middle muffler is for "drone" or resonance. It's actually called a resonator by some, although I think anti-resonator might be more technically correct. People that have drone hate it.

The "stub" is below the main rail and there is no surface tension to speak of to keep it from filling if fuel is in the rail. No reason for it to stay empty once the rail is primed. I think that the fuel probably sits and percolates in the injector body until enough vapor passes through it to cool it back down to where it's full of liquid. That's my theory and I have one experiment to support it, but not prove it. But your comment shows the difficulty in figuring out what's really happening. You can come up with a variety of possible causes. As far as cooling everything, yes that seems to work. The problem doesn't happen unless the engine is nice and hot. It's also been proposed that using a lower temperature thermostat to keep the engine block and components cooler will also mitigate the problem. But that has other effects that may or may not be desirable. It's a dilemma.

If the car is too far away to look, then this thread is really just a memory game. There are pictures of crankshafts around the internet. Search pilot bushing and 240Z or 280Z or 510. Advice is to go to the car, climb underneath with a bright light and see what's really there.

No, I just provided a link to where the ECU is. No idea what the metal boxes are. A picture would help.

Index of /FSM Turbo supplement, Engine Fuel chapter, ECCS section. There is no brain, just stimulus-response cicuits. A box of nerves.

I have a switch for my fuel pump and I also had the hot start problem. I've primed the fuel rail for about a minute, until I couldn't hear the bubbles from the gas tank anymore, and still had the problem. The rail was full of cool fuel and the engine still choked and sputtered for an eternity of 10-20 seconds. The only fix I've found is cooling the injectors directly. The theories that I like are that the injectors get hot enough that the fuel vaporizes as it passes through giving incorrect, lean, metering, or that the pintle inside the injector gets stuck, doing the same, rich or lean, or both.

You should be able to do it from under the car, no need to remove the engine. Post a picture of the end of the crankshaft. Apparently, the flex-plate spacer is a tight fit and looks like the end of the crankshaft but it's actually just pressed on. The other big problem you'll run in to, even if the transmission shaft fits okay is that the flywheel will be the spacer's width away from the starter and may not engage correctly with the starter's gear. You may also find that you don't have enough threads engaged when you bolt on the flywheel,which could be a safety hazard. Many other aggravations ahead if it is the spacer and it's left on.

Looks like you're new to forums, based on your "navagation" comment, but you'll do well to start your internet life with decent punctuation and grammar. It's the representation of your virtual self. Good luck.

Those are CV joint half-shafts and they're most likely too long to use, in addition to needing an adapter. The parts from the R180 in your car now might swap over, I believe. No idea on the details.

I compared dimensions on the OReilly Auto web site and the rears are 1 1/4" longer of the two choices for sale there. Everything else is the same. So if you have fronts you might run in to a length problem. Rears should be at least 11 inches long according to their page. Brake Hose - 1973 Nissan 240Z | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Now you'll need to check the engine for termites. That L28 is looking more enticing. I see that you stuck your wedge back in. It may be too late though, the tensioner is spring-loaded to get it started on the chain with hydraulics for running. When you pulled the old one out the tensioner probably popped out of its hole. You might not be able to get the sprocket re-installed, if you planned to re-install the head without removing the front cover.

That is a wedge that's used to hold the timing chain tensioner in place. It's described in the engine tear-down procedure in the FSM. If you had planned to only remove and re-install the head, you would have inserted that before removing the head. Not uncommon for people to forget about them and re-assemble the engine. Someone has had the head off before.

I would get the L24 running then take it out and run it hard to blow out the crud, wear down the rust, soften up the seals, etc. Some people call this an Italian tune-up (I think the term references the cars, not the people, no offense intended). Not much to lose except a towing fee and you might find that it's actually in good shape. A little bit of surface rust in the cylinders would probably kill your dry pressure readings.

You won't see any frowns (unless you can't stop talking about it) but there won't be much interest either. Hybridz is the swap site. The site names tell the story, classic and hybrid. Pretty simple.

Check for power at the switch on the brake pedal. If it's there, the problem is after the pedal, if not it's before.

FastWoman's suggestion in Post #7 is most likely the cause. Commonly called the "hot start" or "heat soak" problem (NOT vapor lock). Very aggravating and common. Many people just learn to live with it. I've done some experimenting and have found that directing cooling air at the injector bodies will stop the problem. Nissan did the same with the 280ZX, but installed a fan and ductwork to cool all of the components of the fuel supply system on top of the manifold. Heat from the engine block and manifolds heats up the injectors and fuel rail causing the problem. Many theories have been proposed but they all boil down to too much heat. 20 minutes seems like the point where things are the hottest. Earlier than 20 and the heat has not transferred to the fuel system, later and everything has cooled down.

check dimmer switch. its part of turn signal stalk click back and forth

Post #71 and 72 kind of covered the dual pickup issue. The stock ignition module will work fine with one pickup, it just won't use the other ignition circuit. If you convert to a GM HEI module, you will only be able to use one pickup. In #72 I got the impression it didn't matter anyway.

You might be able to use a meter to measure voltage at the plug to see if you have a gauge problem or some other problem. I don't think that you can reach the adjustment with the gauge plugged in. Good luck on the fuel gauge, my tank has never been completely empty so I don't know how low the needle goes. I didn't think it went that low with power to it though. I wonder if you don't have the volt meter wire running through the fuel sender circuit. The resistance would lower the voltage. Wire colors are lower on the page that the drawing came from, BE-35.

You probably can't see this from your phone. They're under the hood.

Still not clear what AZ was testing. Your posts aren't clear. But your voltmeter readings look good.

Check the fusible links. One of them is for the headlights but may also power the running lights. Or, if you have a voltmeter, check for power at the fusebox at the headlight fuse. If you have power at the fusebox then your combo switch is working but the dimmer switch might have problems (not grounding). If you don't have power at the fusebox, then check for power at the fusible link. It might still have a label on the side that says "HL".