Zed Head

This is from the page I linked to in Post 31. Hot fire ignition.

Your 78 won't have the ballast resistor. So the Pin 1 wire will come directly from the coil, it's a blue wire. But if you have spark then the connection at the coil is okay. But here's another thing I remember - the blue wire from the coil also runs to the tachometer, as well as the ignition module. If the tachometer is disconnected, it screws up the signal to the ECU and the ECU won't do its job. So your best path is to check continuity at Pin 1 at the ECU connector and to confirm that the tachometer is connected. There's a resistor in line with the tachometer that needs to be in place. It's bundled in to the wiring so won't come loose unless someone messes around with the wiring by the fuse box.

The injectors are opened by the ECU when the ECU gets a signal from Pin #1, which is connected to the negative side of the coil. So you need spark, and you need the Pin 1 connection.

You are really getting distracted by the coil resistance. If things were getting hot from too much current you would not see the results in the middle of the RPM range, and the results of overheating are usually complete failure or temporary complete failure which fixes itself when things cool down. 1.4 ohms is close enough. 0.1 ohms is not going to make a difference. Electronic Ignition Conversion Kits, Distributors, Ignition Coils for VW, Volkswagen, Porsche, Audi, BMW, Volvo-Penta, Mercedes, Saab, Bosch, Ford, Autolite, Mallory, Prestolite, Delco, GM, Chevrolet, Honda, Nissan, Datsun

That's an odd sticker in the window of your avatar. The position of the thumb suggests a left-handed person flipping the bird to the person inside. Weird. Unless the bird is flipped backward in Sunraysia. Coriolis effect, maybe?

Interesting that the stock wheels have survived. I gave it a prohibited since auctions aren't allowed on CL.

Post #14 in the attached thread has the spring rates. Only one person has purchased Vogtland springs and posted about them (end of thread) and they were for the 280Z so part numbers may be difficult to find. Looks like they do as advertised though. New S30 Shock and Spring Option - Vendor's Forum - HybridZ

The bolt clamps down on the metal sleeve of the mount bushing between the mounting ears, creating essentially a solid metal structure. It's not a precision part, so even an SAE or other non-metric thread would work. And 77 would be the same as 78. Your local Nissan dealer might be able to find it in their parts catalog if you want to stay original.

I know that when I was having a problem with my headlight switch (280Z) breaking the solder joint for the running lights I could feel the heat buildup by touching the switch area on top of the steering column. It got hot. It takes quite a bit if heat to melt/warp plastic. You might just leave the lights on for a bit and see how hot things are getting. It might be old damage, it only takes one hot moment to warp the plastic. I ended up installing relays for both the headlights and running lights on my car so the only current running through the switch now is that needed for the relay solenoids. Tiny amps.

Even with a new wire you might still have heat build-up at the connection. It's the resistance at the interface between the two wires, and the interface between the wire and the connector that produces the heat. Might be more effective to add a couple of relays on the two headlight circuits on the output side of the fuse box. That will remove most of that headlight current from the wires supplying the fuse box. I think it's the reason Dave Irwin's headlight relay kit is so popular for the 240Z's. The running/marker lights pull quite a bit of current also.

Han Solo posted about this, and someone mentioned it on zcar.com. It's 240Z number 89, apparently. Watching them talk about how it really needs new plug wires and distributor cap, and various other upgrades will make you cringe, but sill surprising that it's in such good shape. What they showed anyway. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-general-discussions/52869-240z-velocity-channel-friday-9-14@9p-m-et.html The video: Garage Squad: A Parked Datsun 402 : Velocity

Probably the "P" terminal. Not used. It's looking like many of the brands are getting their rebuilt alternators from the same source, and the source is standardizing to reduce stock keeping units (SKU's). Fewer SKU's makes it easier for managers to keep track of what their company is doing. Shades of Dilbert. Anyway, here's a similar thread on the topic - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/help-me/52835-alternator-upgrade-please-help.html

Find the part number here - Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z Parts Manual Then put it in the Search window and order it here - Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com

Me? I ran out of words... Had to reload.

I think that 77 might have still used the N42 head and intake. The N47 change was mid 77 and/or 78. I don't really see a patch in that picture but it might be there. It's possible that Nissan made a variation for later L6's, like the L24E. Who knows. The 76 parts would work to get the CSV back in action. You might try driving up to Mount Rainier for a night though to see if you really need it. Make sure that you use EFI rated hose to connect the rail together.

Might as well be the Debby Downer, but you would expect some damage to happen as it got levered out of the hole. Either to the tensioner parts or to the cylinder it sat in. Unless you're going to try to rig up a way to reinsert it from the top, with magnets and tape and skinny rods you'll be taking the front cover off, so you'll want to inspect the hole carefully. Should be able to poke around in the oil pan more easily then for the tensioner. And I wonder if your timing chain didn't jump a tooth or two. In this case, it's easy to imagine. Might explain why it isn't running quite right. There's a 79 ZX in the Arlington yard that you might be able to scavenge from. Row52 | 1979 Datsun 280Z

So the comments about the needles and the damper oil are about richening the fuel-air mixture, right? On an EFI engine with a potentiometer on the coolant temperature circuit you would just turn the knob to add resistance, leading to more fuel, if you had this problem. Of course, that would add fuel everywhere. Anyway, if it sings under WOT and idles and revs fine, it's not likely a spark problem. Timing looks about right too, doesn't it? So, change needles to a set that add fuel at part-throttle? Just trying to learn a little carb stuff.

Thanks for the addition to the thread. The math seems to be leading to the conclusion that the typical Pallnet style aluminum rail (AN -6 size bore), with stock heat shielding, could solve the hot start problem alone. Heat dissipation is the key. Just summarizing, for anyone looking for the simplest, and probably cheapest overall solution. You can get the rails with barbs, and could even get an extra port for the CSV, keeping all of the stock functions and most of the parts. Headers and/or new injectors are probably not necessary to get rid of the problem.

1977 was still using the multi-piece rail with fuel hose to connect the pieces. Solid would be 1978 Z or 79-83 ZX. Your description of the regulator says 78 or ZX also. It's been known for people to braze a patch over the CSV hole after they cut off the tube. It's described in a few posts around the internet. The CSV is probably overkill fuel enrichment for anybody not living in Canada or the northernmost states of the USA. You might need it for a few days in the wintertime in Cashmere but worst-case you'll probably just need a few extra revolutions of the engine before it starts. The piping that you're missing is generally in the way,and the CSV injector is one more place to have a leak, that's why many people remove it. I cut mine off and capped the stub with a 5/16" compression fitting, when I had a stock rail. So now you can have it figured out and still leave it off. Best of both...

The fusible link versus amp rating topic pops up occasionally. Somewhere along the line, either Nissan made a mistake in their manuals or a translation error in color versus rating has occurred, or in what color Nissan was really referring to in their manuals. The cars were supposed to come with brown links, not read. And Brown is the smallest gauge, therefore the smallest rating. So if Green is 40, the Brown must be less than 40. Copied the page from the FSM. Apologies to anyone who's tired of hearing this. My logical brain just can't let it go... Edit - and just to make it more confusing, MSA now has a diagram for the links on their site. But they use a brown color to show where their red links go. They chickened out! http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4336 And just to round things out, the atlanticz site shows the red as 0.69^2, but the FSM's say 0.3^2. So are the MSA links 0.69 or 0.3? Regardless of color, it's a confusion. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/

Both MSA and the eBay seller are re-selling factory Nissan parts. In other words, all three are the same part. MSA's mark-up is much more reasonable, and customer service probably better. Not to take a sale from MSA, but it is a small sale, you could probably get this directly from a Nissan dealer.

Not really sure what this is? Is it described somewhere else? How does the coat hanger differ from what you removed? My locks have the same cold versus hot problem. Cold weather makes everything hard to move.

It has a battery in it so maybe it will turn over. Might be worthwhile to take your own battery and some tools so that you don't get the last minute "darn it the battery's dead" excuse for not checking electrical and engine condition. A locked up engine, or weird noises, are good for negotiating. Good to know in any case. But, on the other hand, sometimes not being able to hear the engine turn over is a better tool for talking price down. Depends on how important an engine is to you on if you want to know or not. The pictures look good but I always wonder when they only show one side. There doesn't seem to be any reason not to show the passenger side also.

I almost never look at the Classifieds. I like the Hybridz.org method also. I use What's New? to see what's happening too.

The Vogtland springs seem like a possibility. Not stock, but only one inch+ lower. Here's a fairly recent thread on them. You'll have to click through some links to other forums and web sites to get a good view of where they're at. Looks like they just worked some bugs out of the ordering process. Edit - here's a more direct link http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/117631-new-s30-shock-and-spring-option/page-2#entry1118171